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Well, seems the NOX issue is back. Took it in for service, they did a forced regen (and charged close to 400 dollars for a few clicks on a screen, gotta love dealers, right?). Hooked up the RV and started towing, threw another code within 50 miles. P229F is the code I'm seeing, NOX sensor Bank 1, Sensor 2.
Think this is just a rip/replace? If so, anyone have the right part number? Or is this the indication, it's time to delete? 60K miles, about 1/2 the time towing ~20K behind me.
It kind of seems like the CEL throws when I engage the exhaust brake. I can't say for sure, but I drove it around town without issue after the very expensive mouse clicks, no problem. But when the RV was behind us, I think it was the first big downhill when the exhaust brake was engaging significantly when it threw the code.
So, when you took it to the dealer was it for the P229F code and they did a manual regen thinking that would fix it???
If so, that dealer screwed you over, doing a DPF regen wouldn't have anything to do with that code.
So, when you took it to the dealer was it for the P229F code and they did a manual regen thinking that would fix it???
If so, that dealer screwed you over, doing a DPF regen wouldn't have anything to do with that code.
The original code was P207F, IIRC. They said that it was "dirty" and that a stationary regen was the correct repair. Honestly, no problem, go ahead and give it a shot. It was the 400 dollar charge to click the "regen now" button that really bothered me. Especially when the truck already has manual regen enabled and a SCT Tuner that has the ability to start a stationary regen, that's quite the bill for about 5 minutes of work.
Any guidance? Change a sensor? Take it back to the dealer and "try harder". Delete because these codes indicate a big emissions problem, stop wasting money now!
The original code was P207F, IIRC. They said that it was "dirty" and that a stationary regen was the correct repair. Honestly, no problem, go ahead and give it a shot. It was the 400 dollar charge to click the "regen now" button that really bothered me. Especially when the truck already has manual regen enabled and a SCT Tuner that has the ability to start a stationary regen, that's quite the bill for about 5 minutes of work.
Any guidance? Change a sensor? Take it back to the dealer and "try harder". Delete because these codes indicate a big emissions problem, stop wasting money now!
Thank you!
Short of a full diagnostic, yes, a new sensor might do it.
Short of a full diagnostic, yes, a new sensor might do it.
Well, that's encouraging, thank you!
I might give this dealer one more bite at the apple, see what they say. I raised an issue with them as soon as I got the bill and read through it so they know I'm not happy about being billed that much for 20 minutes of work. Give them one more opportunity to make it right. Really stinks, i had just started using them and was happy with their service to this point, but this bill was just completely out of left field, especially when I told them I'd already done a manual/parked regen, they insisted there was no way to troubleshoot further without doing it themselves. <sigh>
Thankfully I live in an area were a delete wouldn't be an issue, but it's really not my first choice, if I can keep the truck stock for a reasonable price, I will. If it's more than 1000 or so.. Weight Watchers time.
Delete is a hell of a lot more expensive than a O2 sensor.
The other thing to do is find yourself a good independent shop, always less expensive than the dealer.
Delete is a hell of a lot more expensive than a O2 sensor.
The other thing to do is find yourself a good independent shop, always less expensive than the dealer.
I'm hoping your right, guess we'll see what the trip back in brings. I'd rather keep it stock, but if this is the start of endless emissions issues, not too keen on this becoming a regular thing. I'm already into this for close to 400 bucks. guessing the sensor will be about the same. If that fixes is for another good length of time, I'll be happy with that, but if I'm doing another sensor in 6 months, a delete starts to make more sense.
Your 2019 is far less expensive to delete than my 2022 would be. Diesel Dudes in Canada sells everything that you need to do the job. There are benefits like a little more power for towing, engine longevity and increased mpg that are tempting. Dropping off 200lbs of dead weight wouldn't hurt.
I tow an RV or haul about 30% of the time and am considering a delete and a DCR pump. The way I see it, if you are in an unregulated state or don't roll coal to draw attention, then it's your business to do as you wish. I would imagine your wallet is stinging from paying $400 for a regen, so what's another $2,000? You know you are going to give the dealer another $400 - $500 to chase down each code each time.
Your 2019 is far less expensive to delete than my 2022 would be. Diesel Dudes in Canada sells everything that you need to do the job. There are benefits like a little more power for towing, engine longevity and increased mpg that are tempting. Dropping off 200lbs of dead weight wouldn't hurt.
I tow an RV or haul about 30% of the time and am considering a delete and a DCR pump. The way I see it, if you are in an unregulated state or don't roll coal to draw attention, then it's your business to do as you wish. I would imagine your wallet is stinging from paying $400 for a regen, so what's another $2,000? You know you are going to give the dealer another $400 - $500 to chase down each code each time.
I wasn't aware that the newer trucks were harder to delete, gotta love those generational "improvements" right? Although, to be fair, if the newer trucks aren't having as many emissions issues, I guess that would be a fair trade.
I already have the tuner (Livewire), I use it as an in cab monitor and to allow me to access service functions in the truck already. I did ask GWN if the tune closes the EGR full time (does that need to removed physically or does the tune take care of it?). So, all in with shipping, probably 700-1000 to delete it.
IDK, part of me would like to "do the right thing" and keep the emissions on; it is pretty amazing how these new trucks, other than the sound of the engine, you can't even tell they are diesels, they don't smell/smoke at all. But the other side, I'm probably going to keep this truck to around 100-120K, that's probably another 4-5 years for me; if I'm into the age where every 6 months I need a grand in emissions service, that's not gonna last long before I go at it with a sawzall.
I wasn't aware that the newer trucks were harder to delete, gotta love those generational "improvements" right? Although, to be fair, if the newer trucks aren't having as many emissions issues, I guess that would be a fair trade.
22+ trucks have a encrypted computer, can't be tuned with a simple tuning device plugged into the OBD port.
If you delete and tune, make sure you guard the original tune and deleted parts with your life so that when the delete tune gets corrupted you will have the original stuff to fall back on.
22+ trucks have a encrypted computer, can't be tuned with a simple tuning device plugged into the OBD port.
If you delete and tune, make sure you guard the original tune and deleted parts with your life so that when the delete tune gets corrupted you will have the original stuff to fall back on.
Oh, that's super. How long before someone makes an aftermarket ECU for these things; these "untunable" computers really make life difficult.
I have a place to store the original parts in case I ever needed to return it to stock. How much of a physical operation is it to put a pipe on it (like I linked)? We talking hours or days of work? Looks pretty simple from the diagrams, but sometimes a LOT is left out of them. Sure' unbolt 6 things, drop the pipe, done. But to get to those 6 bolts, you'll need to have the truck in approx 10,000 pieces. I'm guessing it's not that hard because seems a lot of people do it, but just trying to get some idea in case I go down this route. Also, if I do it, is it worth messing with the EGR system (block off plates/etc) or is that optional? I'd like to make it as easy as possible to return to stock if need be for trade in/sale in the future.