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I would sale of for cheap and put a flat bed on it. Lol JK Just saying there is always options. Like using steel versus rubber for the rear fender flares below.
I like that!
Image saved for future bed ideas, as I’m bedless. I saved some of the others you posted in the past.
I’m curious how the bed frame underneath was made.
I like that! Image saved for future bed ideas, as I’m bedless. I saved some of the others you posted in the past.
I’m curious how the bed frame underneath was made.
I have a ton of unique flat bed ideas (like 250 pics) I have saved off FTE. I bet the main frame (all rails that you can see), and the beds cross members were probably built out of 2" heavy wall square tubing and then some times heavy wall C channel is used to get the frame leveled up with the flat bed.
Or the cross members of the flat bed are on the frame (at it highest point, above the axle) and then the front and rear gaps are filled in with bigger metal (again cross member wise. That is how I did mine on the red flatbed, after I gave it a chop/lowering job. With a 6" lift and 38.5 tires the flat bed was WAY up there.
Yes that is a red 2.5 gal temp gas can for yard driving, while I was finishing the flat bed welding. New gas tank and sending unit on hand and going in some day. Make note of the bed to tire gap.
One of the culprits.
The back way to tall cross member.
What was used to level the bed to the frame or fill the gap.
Be gone devil metal.
Be gone X2.
I was using pipe so I could roll/adjust the back of the cab to the flat bed header panel gap. It was a one man show.
There we are, all bolted in 4 places (on each side) and the front and real main cross members are welded to the flat bed and bolted to the frame using the OEM front and rear bed and OEM rear bumper mount holes.
Not the best showing pic, but now make note of the bed to tire gap again. At least now I can work off of it...sort of. I also put 37"s on it. Mucho better.
I have a ton of unique flat bed ideas (like 250 pics) I have saved off FTE. I bet the main frame (all rails that you can see), and the beds cross members were probably built out of 2" heavy wall square tubing and then some times heavy wall C channel is used to get the frame leveled up with the flat bed.
Or the cross members of the flat bed are on the frame (at it highest point, above the axle) and then the front and rear gaps are filled in with bigger metal (again cross member wise. That is how I did mine on the red flatbed, after I gave it a chop/lowering job. With a 6" lift and 38.5 tires the flat bed was WAY up there.
Yes that is a red 2.5 gal temp gas can for yard driving, while I was finishing the flat bed welding. New gas tank and sending unit on hand and going in some day. Make note of the bed to tire gap.
One of the culprits.
The back way to tall cross member.
What was used to level the bed to the frame or fill the gap.
Be gone devil metal.
Be gone X2.
I was using pipe so I could roll/adjust the back of the cab to the flat bed header panel gap. It was a one man show.
There we are, all bolted in 4 places (on each side) and the front and real main cross members are welded to the flat bed and bolted to the frame using the OEM front and rear bed and OEM rear bumper mount holes.
Not the best showing pic, but now make note of the bed to tire gap again. At least now I can work off of it...sort of. I also put 37"s on it. Mucho better.
I like it and may do something similar. I’ve built a couple in the past.
I see some for sale but all very wide.
I think built to fit is the way to go.
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