I have been contemplating putting my '50 ford body on a more modern plateform. However I'm not completely against the stock fram and flat-head it already has. I was told ranger frames will work but I was wondering if there were any other suggestions as I would like more of a variety for powertrains, and I'm not against bow-ties either. Someone said that the wheel-base on a mid '90s blaser full size wold work as well as a newer gm safari/astro.
Any suggestions or comments are welcome.

 

The standard answer here is... almost anything is easier to upgrade your truck than trying a frame swap. No one here admits to doing one and the hearsay evidence is just as negative. Good luck. himmelberg

 

I tend to agree with what I have heard on this forum over the past few months: it is better to update your existing chassis or purchase a complete aftermarket unit setup for your truck. With a donor chassis, unless you purchase a low mileage donor chassis you will probably end up needing to rebuild the front suspension in addition to determining how to rework it to make it fit under your truck and look correct. For resale, I would think an updated or aftermarket chassis would be preferred also. Have fun with your project and welcome.
Larry

 

I have used 1975 to 1978 blazer frames under several 50 ford half tons. The 75 is better as it is a straight frame. It has to be lenthened a few inches and a few minor body mods but none of it presents a problem. What originally took me 2 1/2 years to do I could now do in 2 1/2 months and that would have the truck rolling out the door under it's own power. I am also presently putting a 78 blazer under a 1956 ford half ton and mounted the cab and front sheet metal in two evenings. Also waiting for spring to finish bodywork and paint is a 1947 merc coupe with an S 10 frame under it.

 

my way

do you happen to have any photos of your frame swap? did you use the blazer axles? and was it 2x4 or 4x4? just wondering, i was thinking about updating to a newer drive line vs. redoing old frame. thanks

whistler

 

I used a 2 wheel drive blazer complete, front to rear, including the gas tank and actually I made a complete video several years ago of the 50 frame swap, haven't taken any pictures or videos of the 56 yet as I have only been playing with this one for a few evenings in the garage. On the 47 coupe I have everything recorded with quite a few pictures.

My way

 

At last! Someone else who doesn't think swapping the chassis is a big deal. I'm doing it on my 53 right now. Using a 1989 Ranger 2WD chassis. A buddy has his 47 on an 87 ranger 2WD chassis. It works!

 

Major Dad

Do you have any Ranger frame swap progress PICs you can post in your gallery? Some PICs might silence us naysayers. Although I don't intend to do a frame swap, it would still be cool to see your progress. I don't think anybody here is wishing you bad luck. We are just of the opinion it takes too long for the end result. Wouldn't bother me a bit to be proven wrong on this one.

 

I'm with you on this one, 'fenders. I haven't seen or read anything directly that pertains to wholesale frame swaps in the negative. All of my information in the negative vein has been hearsay. Most of the positive has come from the bad boys of the HAMB.
Last summer my grandson and I toyed with the idea of purchasing a '47 Chev one ton and a '77 Chev frame with running gear to mount it on. The guy selling it was pretty convincing about the viability of the project. We looked at details that would cause potential problems. The project was tabled because Mrs H put the kaibosh on it. Maybe it was for the better.
This has hardly diminished my enthusiasm, however. What I have been reading about upgrading frames under old tin is interesting. So much so that I've been researching dimensions, track and wheelbase, for candidates that might make an appealing cruiser for the Mrs.
If the major and my way come through with some data, I, for one, will be ready to jump on that bandwagon. This is all with the understanding that a wholesale swap is not going to be a walk in the park... that is not the point. We would all benefit from what these guys have to offer. Standing by. Himmelberg

 

I don't know anything about putting a frame under a chev but I speak from experience with two successfull 50's done and now in the process on my 56, I know it can be done on them. Both 50's had to have the fame lenthened a little in the centre. I used a tapered frame (78 blazer) and a straight frame (75 blazer) and now on the 56 it's a tapered frame again. (availability) On the second 50 I used the large bolt pattern ford spoke alum. mags that also fit the GM truck bolt pattern and it took the wheel right out to the edge of the fender but a different wheel would have them in a little. I did the measuring to make sure it would go and did it MY WAY.

 

"If the major and my way come through with some data, I, for one, will be ready to jump on that bandwagon."

Himmel

It would be great if we could get real frame swap data, on the level of our IFS threads. Your ride height will be this.......... Here's a PIC of my conversion cab mounts...... The rear shocks are a problem area...... yada yada ..... And lot's of under truck PICs of course.

Until I do, my opinion will be jaded by the low quality frame swaps I have witnessed and seen for sale on the net. Cootie bobbed from one end to another. I'm confident it can be done. You can install a truck body on just about anything with a welder and some 1/4" angle. But how much time and skill are required for a high quality install? One that has a nice ride height, drives nice and you're not ashamed to have someone look at the bottomside of your ride.

I applaud Major's effort to try to use a Ford chassis. I hope he'll share the details of the challenges encountered along the way. We like pictures.

 

I will share everything I can as I progress. Right now the cab is on my rotisseree and I'm replacing sheetmetal cab corners, rockers etc. I can tell you the wheelbase on the ranger is 110" which is the same as a 53. The tracking width is 57" vs. 60" which will require offset wheels in front but should also with proper offset allow fat tires in the rear without widening the fenders. The frame width is 33" vs. 34" for the 53 and narrows towards the front. I'll get some pictures of my friends on the 87 frame and post them as well. He incorporated a poly material like used for boat trailer rollers into his new cab mounts. The ride height on the ford ranger can be slammed right to the ground with aftermarket flip kits and lowering springs, air bags are also readily available if one wants to go that way. I never thought anybody was being negative just discouraging to the budget builders. I just happen to have more time than money. Coming up with $500 here and there and is easier than coming up with $3000 here and there.

 

I am definitely a DIY kinda person and always on a tight budget. Unless you have the time to restore and modify your original frame or do a frame swap its easier to rat hole 500 bucks here and there till you have enough for a new frame made for your particular application. I have done all these options and it usually boils down to skill, time, and money but anything is possible with enough determination.

 

"I never thought anybody was being negative just discouraging to the budget builders."

Over time I think you will find most of us are on just as tight a budget. You might be surprised to learn the low number of MIIs and other moderate to high dollar suspensions actually on this forum. Stockers and Volares and a few Aerostars are the majority here. Perhaps lower buck than a Ranger frame swap I suspect, but only time will tell for sure. I look forward to sharing your progress. Keep us posted.

BTW, I think you may have some of us confused with wealthy folk. The fact is many of us have "invested" our spare change into our trucks for a very long time. I would guess most of the trucks here are under 5K. That would be a neat poll to have sometime.

 

Low buck frames, how about under $500.00 to do the whole job.

Blazer frame $150.00, master cyl and booster, $25.00, Chev. van tilt column, $50.00, used three core early Buick rad, $50.00, Ranger Seats $50.00, Emergency brake, $5.00, Misc. steel for mounting cab. $25.00, New steel to raise box floor, $50.00. The truck on the blazer frame lowers it 5 inches from stock without using dropped spindles or doing a number on the rear springs. In fact I used 3/4 ton front fenders with the larger wheel openings because I wanted to use the 50 ford as a tow vehicle and not have to worry about turning tight over bumps when towing a car trailer. As for the quality of the job, in Manitoba we have to go through a provincial safety before the vehicle can be insured and licenced and if the inspector does a poor job, random inspections can call in your vehicle and the shop doing a poor inspection can loose the creditation and they are out of business.

My way