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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

torque specs

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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 06:18 PM
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torque specs

I am having a heck of a time finding a definitive answer as to what the torque specs are for a Ford F150 1983 with 4.9L. Everyone has a different number and I can't afford to get this wrong. I will be in dire trouble if I overtorque or have a leak if they are undertorqued. If I google it, there are to many different answers, I need torque specs for exhaust AND intake. The general consensus for the intake is 27# and the exhaust is 70#,but that too varies widely. If some one has the true answer can you let me know please.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 07:00 AM
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Intake manifold to cylinder head bolts 22 to 32 ftlbs

Intake manifold to exhaust manifold nuts 28 to 32 ftlbs

Exhaust manifold to cylinder head bolts;

1980-1981 28 to 33 ftlbs
1982-1983 22 to 32 ftlbs
 
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Intake manifold to cylinder head bolts 22 to 32 ftlbs

Intake manifold to exhaust manifold nuts 28 to 32 ftlbs

Exhaust manifold to cylinder head bolts;

1980-1981 28 to 33 ftlbs
1982-1983 22 to 32 ftlbs
Do tell me please,
How do you TQ the intake manifold and not the exhaust manifold to the head on a 300 six motor as the same bolts / nuts hold both to the head with large thick washers

The 2 manifolds do bolt together making it 1 unit that uses the same bolt / nut to hold them to the head so where did you come up with the 2 TQ specs?






Now I am running EFI exh manifolds but it uses the same bolts / nuts / washers to hold the manifolds to the head.
What make it harder with the EFI manifolds is you now dealing with 3 moving parts and not just 1
I also dont thing you can get the TQ wrench on all the bolts / nuts so you will need to do some by hand.
Be careful that the manifolds do not drop / rest on the bolts as it can cause a leak because the manifolds are not over the ports / gasket. (dont ask how I know but I was dealing with 3 parts)
After 2 or 3 heat / cool cyl. go back over all the bolts / nuts as they will be loose.
Good luck
Dave ----

ps I have never used a TQ wrench on the manifolds and did not have a leak because of it just from the manifolds being too low.
I have also been wrenching for 100 years
 
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 10:31 AM
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70 will break them off. Don't do that.

Torque specs are determined by the fastener size, thread pitch, and grade.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Do tell me please,
How do you TQ the intake manifold and not the exhaust manifold to the head on a 300 six motor as the same bolts / nuts hold both to the head with large thick washers

The 2 manifolds do bolt together making it 1 unit that uses the same bolt / nut to hold them to the head so where did you come up with the 2 TQ specs?
Because that is what the book says. I personally do not use torque specs on bolts, except the cylinder head to block bolts and the flywheel/flexplate to crankshaft bolts. Maybe the odd critical bolt here and there. I do not consider the exhaust manifold bolts critical. I might look up the tightening pattern on the intake bolts.

 
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Because that is what the book says. I personally do not use torque specs on bolts, except the cylinder head to block bolts and the flywheel/flexplate to crankshaft bolts. Maybe the odd critical bolt here and there. I do not consider the exhaust manifold bolts critical. I might look up the tightening pattern on the intake bolts.
I do the same as you and I did look up the pattern when I did the intake / exhaust gasket - center outward.

I just wanted to point out on the 300 motor that there is no exhaust or intake only bolts as it tightens both at the same time as seen by my pictures.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 09:31 PM
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Yeah look up the pattern and the torque. It's always a range. Use judgement that if you have well lubricated threads you can get more clamping with less torque. Threads are dry then more torque to the high of the range. A torque wrench isn't needed as if you see 20 foot pounds torque that's 20 pounds force on a 1 foot breaker. It's easy to estimate. On the other hand it's a nice tool to have for rear end covers. The gasket I used called for a pattern and stage torquing.
 
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