So I have a 18 6.7 super duty with the halogen lights and as we all know they suck. So I bought morimoto lights and LED grill light, but headlights were backordered and got them last week. I like the look of the 20-22 front end better so got that set up they have with there converted header.

I couldn’t get the fuse jumper in fuse box because it hits other fuses and was told by them I need to get a fuse extender but couldn’t get from them would have to get from vender I bought my set up from so he could order it from them? Kinda odd but what ever just will take longer to get I guess.

Well anyways I had truck ripped apart and knew it be awhile before I got it so just decided to put everything new on and be done with it and wait for the hook up to fuse box later because don’t need the truck right now. So I go to move truck out of the garage and everything works. WTF? The DRL on head lights and grill, low beam, high beam and blinkers.

What’s the point of hooking to fuse box if you don’t need power from it? Don’t want to drill a hole in box or any other mods if I don’t have to for no reason. So I asked vender about it and he said yea they have seen that and some work and some don’t. I asked them to explain why and he said they would ask Morimoto for that answer.

Yet to get an answer and it makes zero sense to me. DC power is pretty basic and there is no point of feeding power from to points, kinda defeats the point of a fuse.

So I ordered an online ford super duty 6.7, 2018 manual on line and also just an electric diagram for the truck. The power to the stock headlights comes off an BCM that’s hot at all times and the fuse they want the fuse tap in is F34 (High Mounted Stoplamp/Camera/LED, Rear Lamp Assembly LH, Rear Lamp Assembly RH, Rear Parking Aid Camera, Remote Trailer Camera, Reversing Lamp, Left, Reversing Lamp, Right, Trailer Camera/Trailer TPMS Connector, Trailer Tire Pressure Monitor System Module) is a hot in start or run wire.

Now I’m really confused. I know if you look at both year light set ups and LED grill set up they make you do that fuse tap.

I like to know if someone has any of there set up if you pull your fuse does your stuff still work and if anyone can explain any of this to me to make sense.

Sorry for long post.

 

I have the same setup on a 2017 - new grille with leds, and headlights. When I installed mine it worked initially. My passenger light would effectively power cycle and do the stage up of the projectors over and over.
I installed a harness inline as I had seen that as a fix, but no luck. What I didn't realize is that it had blown the fuse because it was installed in the wrong direction (per the photo). The fact I lost my reverse camera caused additional headaches, but I ended up tracing it back to the fuse.

Pop holder back in the right way and everything works again.

Not sure if DRL settings in the BCM would have any effect, but was told the fuse tap was for the DRL ring and the other was for dimming, but might try without eventually if I want to go back into dark mode.

 

What way did you put fuse? The have two different videos of the same installation and install different in each one. In one video there are no fuses in way so wire is facing driver side in other video you pass it real quick and you can see they put a V notch in fuse wall to make wire going towards passenger side.
You lost rear camera because that’s what f34 goes to. But in one video they tell you f35 fuse if you have it. Couldn’t find any info on that fuse because my site diagram shows it open.

 

I'll have to look which way. I think the way that worked was the way that was most difficult. Didn't have the f35 I don't think. Luckily my fog lights are bright enough that I could use them when driving in to work, and it was summer time when I installed so didn't have to worry about it driving back.

Notching fuse box was no biggie. Done it numerous times for lights or other accessories.

 

any update on it? New install and mine are doing the same - passenger side “rebooting” and turned out the fuse was blown (rear camera blue too).

it confuses me because shouldn’t it use the 15sec fuse on the top, and not the 10amp on the bottom? My 10amp randomly blows, and the headlight reboots.

any chance you can take a pic?

 

I never got a response from Morimoto on my issue so just never hooked up to fuse panel and it all works. No clue why because could never find someone to give me an answer.
why give you all the other wires and tell you to mod fuse box when it gets power from another source anyways?

 

were you LED originally?

I was halogen, and without the harness installed, my morimoto light on passenger side reboots when the truck is running. (But works fine when off)

But with the fuse tap in place, that headlight works properly when truck is running. But my fuse (34) keeps randomly blowing - which means the light reboots

 

If you're blowing the rear camera fuse, try flipping the fuse tap. The picture on the instructions is wrong.

I just took mine out and tied it to an upfitter for a darker look. Have some other issues I'm going to investigate (cycling pass light vs not driver, not turning on if in auto, lights on, and power turned on last, etc) but have a know working solution for now.