Motorcraft 5-w30 semi-synthetic, it's like a $1.50 a quart and it's good oil, can't go wrong, change the oil under 3000 miles every time and it will last forever.

 

I've used the prescribed oil since Day1. My truck is a 2002 with 78,000+ miles on it already. Engine still pulls like new and is tight. I "may" consider going to synthetic motor oil after 100K, but we'll see. If the truck's running fine, I'll stay with the standard Valvoline 5w/20. If there seems to be a need, I will consider the synthetic OR engine work that will return the motor to as new as possible, as per Ford spec's.

My hesitation going to synthetics is this: If you have to go to synthetics, are you masking a bigger problem? or masking a matter that will soon become one anyways?

My $.02,
Daryl

 

I've used MC 5W20 and MC filters on my '02 V10 since it was new. I only have 44k on it but have had no issues with it. My oil starts to turn dark by 1000 miles and when I change the oil at 3000 miles it is really dirty. As far as I'm concerned this is an indication that the oil is doing it's job, which besides lubrication, is to remove the combustion by-products created by the engine running. If after running an engine 3000 miles my oil still looked like new I'd be looking for different oil since if the 'junk' isn't coming out with the oil it must still be in the engine and that's not where I want it. Just my .02 worth.

 

Uh, you're kidding, right?

The oil's job is to lubricate, not clean out the motor - the oil gets brown because it's breaking down ...

After reading your post, I'm glad I stayed away from Motorcraft oil...

 

I run Valvoline 5w30 semi-synthetic with no problems. For me changing the oil on time every 3k is key.

 

Oil's job is to lubricate (I think I mentioned that in my previous post), cool and clean. Part of the additive package is designed to keep dirt and particulate matter in suspension so it will be drained out at oil change time. Bypass filter systems work by filtering all this stuff out that the full flow filter cant allowing the oil change interval to be extended (or eliminated altogether as some do).
Ever been around an engine that is operated on propane instead of gasoline?
The oil in a propane fueled engine will still look like new after 3 or 4 times the mileage that would have it coal black in a gasoline fueled engine because propane burns cleaner without leaving behind the soot and deposits that burning gasoline does.

 

I've torn apart plenty of motors that I ran with Castrol and there was no carbon buildup in them... they were perfectly clean inside.

I also know about detergents in oil... all my motors - especially an old 360 FE with over 130K miles on it was run with Castrol - the inside of the block was spotless... and it had plenty of life left in it - I only tore it apart after I put a 390 in it's place.

I think your argument is flawed - the dirtier the oil the better ? Sorry, that doesn't make sense.

Anyone else in this thread care to comment about what oil they use and the CONDITION of it after 3K miles?

 

umm yeah. of course the oils job is to clean. as well as lubricate. the motorcraft oil is made by connoco phillips and every uoa has been outstanding super low metals across the board. mainly because of the strong baseoil.

 

quote from flash.

Well, there seems to be a lot of confusion again regarding the Fords spec using the 5w-20 oils. I thought I would explain it again for those that didn't catch it the first time. Everybody wants to speculate that it is only for CAFE reasons that Ford specs this light weight oil. After reviewing the test criteria, you should understand that there is a lot more to Fords spec than CAFE. It has to do with deposits, viscosity breakdown/ thickening, and valve train wear.

Let me first explain the Sequence IIIF criteria. It is a test that evaluates oil thickening, piston deposits, and valve train wear under high speed, high temperature conditions. Test length is 80 hours ( or roughly 2 weeks), and max viscosity increase is 275%.

Now, what does that mean in regards to the 153-H oils that we are considering using and Fords requirement to use it? Ford has established requirements that exceed API SL/GF-3 standards set by API. Ford requires either a DOUBLE lenght Sequence IIIF or a DOUBLE length Sequence IIIE test with maximum viscosity increase of 200%. API Sequence IIIF requires 80 hours and a viscosity increase of 275% max while the Sequence IIIE requires 64 hours with a viscosity increase of 375% max. Ford requires the test time table to be DOUBLE and max viscosity increase of 200% only. Much tighter and higher standards and harder to meet than regular dino oils or synthetics. Ford also requires a limit of 30mg high temp deposits for the double lenght test compared to API SL limits of 45mg for single test length. So you can easily see that the oils meeting this standard are pretty darn tough.

In regards to Motorcraft Oil specs, the pour point is -49F, Flash point is 435F, Viscosity at 100C is 8.5 (9.30 is a 30W, so it is almost a 30w or a heavy 20w), Viscosity index is 147. The HT/HS rating (directly related to bearing and ring wear) is 2.78.

I also see folks attempting to justify the use of a synthetic thinking it is better in this weight oil. Mobil One has a HT/HS rating of 2.6 which is absolute minimum to stay within the Ford spec. Obviously, it is the bottom of the barrel as other "blends" exceed M1. When selecting your 5w-20 oil, I would suggest looking for one that has a higher than minimum HT/HS rating. Most of the "blends" are higher than minimum and most now contain moly which is a good barrier lube.

There has been questions in regards to high heat environment. I can't imagine that many folks live in a hotter area than I do. We have on average 45 days of over 115F, over 90 days of over 110F heat. My 4.6 sits and idles with the A/C running all day- it's too hot to let the truck heat up inside as the A/c will never cool it down. I have had no oil related problems and my oil analysis come back with very low, single digit wear metals. Using the 5w-20 oils in a high heat environment is fine, just fine.

I hope this clears up any concerns some of you have in regards to the lighter but much better oils.

 

Yep...and now you do again.

I don't see why the 5W-20 would not work in the engine. It is specified so why not use it. The new 5W-20 is probably lights years ahead of 10W-30 from 15-20 years ago.

I don't hesitate to use it in my Focus (and she sometimes sees HIGH revs).

-Matt

 

I run MC 5W-20 in my '03 Sable and... 89 Honda with the 2.0L. I also ran it in my '03 Ram 2500 5.7L. Read some of the UOA about the new 5W-20.

 

Excellent Post Ford390Gashog, and when I drain my MC 5-20 after 3000 miles it looks pretty clean. What amazes me most about my V10 and the MC 5-20 even after logging 800 miles in one long day with the slide in camper ( toal weight over 11000 LB ) and lots of high revs and high speed , this engine uses no oil.

All of my previous Ford pickups, 4 gassers, 3 PSDs, all used a little oil when you worked them hard. MC 5-20 is a great oil and many people are spending more money on other types of oil to get less protection for their engines. I can understand people choosing to run any brand of oil they want , but I have trouble with people that won't follow the manufacturer's recommended viscosity.

Honda, the largest gas engine builder in the world, recommends 5-20 for their newer cars. I change the oil in my wife's Accord, it gets 5-20.

Toyota in 02 was still going with 5-30 and when I change the oil on both kids Corollas, they get 5-30.

Sometimes the people that manufacture the engines know what they are talking about and my last comment is about high outside temperature and 5-20 oil.
Of course 5-20 is fine because it is the engine's thermostat that determines the vehicle's running temperature. It doesn't matter if it is 60 degrees or 120 degrees, if you have a 180 thermostat , that is where she will run. The hotter outside temperature can place a bigger demand on your cooling system because the hot air flowing through the rad will not remove the heat from the coolant as well and your thermostat will stay wider open, but this has dick all to do with oil viscosity, your engine is going to run at 180 if your cooling system is working.

It is really hard to dispell some automotive myths and this one about high outside temperature requiring a heavy weight oil just never goes away.

 

Wrench,180 is the temp at which the thermostat opens at. The engine temp can fluctuate 10 to 15 degrees higher under load. When temps rise oil breaks down known fact.There are other factor's (clutch fans,stat flow rates,ac running)
I'm not going to debate oil viscosity versa what a manufacture recomends.
Too each his own on that subject.
Rich

 

yes and under load a thinner oil is better it removes heat faster and cools internal parts.

quote wrench,

Sometimes the people that manufacture the engines know what they are talking about

yep have you seen the ford test for 5w20? it is very intertesting i will try to find it.

 

I had my 02 v10 f350 at the dealer awhile ago just before warranty was about to expire, and let them change the oil. Big mistake......
Picked it up and went home. Checked the oil and the stick was dry. seems they put in 5 quarts while a v10 uses more. drove right back to address the problem and they were topping it off from a 55 gallon drum when i blew up seeing the drum clearly labelled 10w30. Guess what? NO 5W20 OIL IN THE WHOLE DEALERSHIP........I ended up forcing them to refund the oil change so I could get it done right elsewhere. At the next place it became apparent the chasis wasnt greased either , even though it was listed as being done on the invoice. LYNCH FORD CHICAGO