Trouble code 332, (EGR valve opening not detected)
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2024
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Trouble code 332, (EGR valve opening not detected)
Thanks to thoose of you who helped me with my 8.8 rebuild, it's running great! Now I'm working on getting the CEL to turn off on my 92' F-150 4.9l. With key on engine off, I'm getting code 111 which should mean all good? But everytime I drive the truck the CEL comes on and code 332 keeps appering in the memory so I'm pretty sure the EGR system is at fault. With the engine running I pulled vacum on the EGR and nothing happened. I would just replace the EGR but the emission tube is rusted on and the nut won't budge. Plus it just seems like a bad idea to be dumping all that crap from the exhuast back into the engine. So I'm looking at a EGR delete kit with the stimulator plug. The thing is, the kit says it may trigger code 332 but not the CEL. Is this possible? Do any of you know whether or not 332 triggers the CEL? Just hoping for some adivce, from someone who's tried this before.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 2,674
From: Near Salt Lake City
The code 332 will illuminate the check engine lamp
Why not just replace the EVP?
That's the sensor on top of your EGR valve that says whether it's open or not
The EVP sensors are notoriously inaccurate and needing replacement is common
Get a Ford one and color matters
The pinpoint tests to properly diagnose code 332 are in the PCED and are pretty easy
They have you exercise the valve with a hand held vacuum pump while watching a DVOM and the voltage output
All they ever need is a new EVP has been my experience
We all breathe the same air, leave the EGR intact
If you ever get a new EGR valve from Ford it comes with a few different size washers
Those washers adjust the EGR flow
The 4.9s sure do benefit from reduced EGR flow
Last one I had, I cut the flow down some but left the system intsct
Maybe do that, use a blockoff plate with a 3/8 drilled hole in the plate
That way, the EGR will work and the light will be off
Another thing about winter, those vacuum lines cann get water in them and freeze, that sets a code 332 as well
Have fun with it
Why not just replace the EVP?
That's the sensor on top of your EGR valve that says whether it's open or not
The EVP sensors are notoriously inaccurate and needing replacement is common
Get a Ford one and color matters
The pinpoint tests to properly diagnose code 332 are in the PCED and are pretty easy
They have you exercise the valve with a hand held vacuum pump while watching a DVOM and the voltage output
All they ever need is a new EVP has been my experience
We all breathe the same air, leave the EGR intact
If you ever get a new EGR valve from Ford it comes with a few different size washers
Those washers adjust the EGR flow
The 4.9s sure do benefit from reduced EGR flow
Last one I had, I cut the flow down some but left the system intsct
Maybe do that, use a blockoff plate with a 3/8 drilled hole in the plate
That way, the EGR will work and the light will be off
Another thing about winter, those vacuum lines cann get water in them and freeze, that sets a code 332 as well
Have fun with it
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
Thanks for the good advice. I'm planning to go with your recomondations, just had an idea I was curious about. Hypothetically, could I replace the sensor or egr thats causing the light, then where the emission tube would thread onto the egr install a little air filter insted? That way the egr could function as usuall and keep the CEL off, but it would be pulling in clean air. I know this will make emissions worse, and I'm not necissarily planning to do it, just wondering if it would work.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 2,674
From: Near Salt Lake City
Yes, I think you could vent the EGR tube to atmosphere
I've never seen it done
It might lean out the mixture and cause lean misfire but sure might be better than breathing spent exhaust gasses for performance
Your valve should be okay, just the sensor needs to be replaced most likely
I'd run through the pinpoint tests to be sure
I've never seen it done
It might lean out the mixture and cause lean misfire but sure might be better than breathing spent exhaust gasses for performance
Your valve should be okay, just the sensor needs to be replaced most likely
I'd run through the pinpoint tests to be sure
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
I just tested the sensor this morning and it actully seems ok. Voltage starts at 0 then gradually ramps up as I push the little plunger thing. I'm gonna start by replacing the egr since the screws for the sensor rusted out and snapped off in the egr body.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
I installed the new EGR today and CEL turned off. I had to cut the rusted emission tube so I have the EGR vented to atmosphere and the tube pluged right now. It runs really good that way but there's a whistleing/sucking noise a high rpms. I think the cheap air filter I used is making the noise. It sounds kinda like a turbo tho so I don't mind
. Thanks agian for your advice.
. Thanks agian for your advice.
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AaronOregon
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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