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I've seen several of you post about these before, but having trouble finding said posts now. I'm probably just failing in the search terms department.
What USB Volt meter did you use?
Did it plug into the power port, or replace it completely?
Would you use the same one if you had to do it over, if not what would you get?
I'm probably buying one from Amazon since I can't find anything like that locally. There are a lot of them on there are reviews are all over the place. If I can select something that has been used by a member and has a proven track record, that's probably what I'll buy.
I've seen several of you post about these before, but having trouble finding said posts now. I'm probably just failing in the search terms department.
What USB Volt meter did you use?
Did it plug into the power port, or replace it completely?
Would you use the same one if you had to do it over, if not what would you get?
I'm probably buying one from Amazon since I can't find anything like that locally. There are a lot of them on there are reviews are all over the place. If I can select something that has been used by a member and has a proven track record, that's probably what I'll buy.
Thanks!
I installed one of these where the cigar lighter used to be. I removed the lighter and wired in this device. I selected the version with a switch so I could have positive control over the display and power consumption.
I would install one of these again as it has worked well for my application.
In fact I ordered the same unit he has based on a link he provided to me a couple years ago.
I located into the upper power point and it can be hidden by the sliding door.
Amazon is your buddy for this, and if your truck sits parked for any amount of time I’d recommend getting one with an on/off switch.
I wasn't sure about whether to go with a plug-in adapter that stays in the truck full time, or a complete replacement for the socket. I'm thinking that I do like the complete replacement better. Despite my best intentions, I'm likely to remove the plug-in adapter, use it in another vehicle, and never get it back where its supposed to be. That's not going to happen with the wired in charger. (doesn't mean the charging cable won't disappear somewhere)
If I had a F-650 manual lower dash I'd mount it in there, but they want way too much for those now. I'd like to leave the lower lighter socket location available of other possibilities. Namely a USB passthrough for headunit or just keep it as a power port if I ever needed it for a standard 12v car accessory. (IE: tire pump, fan, heater, or small inverter)
I think the way that F350 has it mounted is probably what I want to do. It's unfortunate that one is no longer available. I'd have gotten it if it were, since it isn't I'll probably upgrade to one that supports type C PD charging since nearly everything I have is USB C now. If nothing else that listing gives me the dimensions that fit in that location.
Not sure if I want to wire it to be constant hot, or keyed hot. Constant hot is power all the time and requires the switch to turn on and off the readout, but possibly less affected by other keyed power loads. Keyed comes on only when the key is on, but would draw power from another keyed circuit (like the radio) and without a switch would have the readout going constantly.
I like the switch in either circumstance as I could turn off the volt display if the light starts bothering me. My concern with the switch is that I will turn it off when the light bugs me and won't think to turn it on before starting the truck again. The purpose for the USB volt meter is a combination between charging ports, keeping an eye on the bettery charge, and observing the voltage change when GPs are on/off. If I don't turn it on when I hop in the truck it doesn't do much good for observing the GP status. I'm not too concerned about not turning it off because it isn't going to drain much.
I figured that the USB volt veter would be a good addition that would cover all three jobs. I'd rather not drill a hole for a GPR LED, but might do that anyway. Not like the truck is flawless, I just don't like making permanent modifications like drilling a hole for an LED or cutting a hole to mount the Hydra. Decisions, decisions.
This is the one(s) I got for reasons you mentioned. USB-c compatability as many new devices are headed that way (adapters exist though), 4 ports if ever needed, and always on.
I would have done behind the PP door but the cig lighter went out in the Ex so thats where I put it. Wife can't forget to raise a door to confirm when GPs deactivate and LED is not bright and annoying. She left her plug in one in all the time anyway with an LED light indicator. Draw is miniscule.
I T-tapped into the existing wiring to maintain the OEM pigtail in case I ever decided to revert back to original configuration. But if not for needing to maintain one for a tire pump like you, I'd have replaced all power points with these because they charge so much faster.
I do mine differently. I keep my flosser picks in the driver's side door cubby
USe whichever one you like, plenty of reviews on them. I went with the top rated one but it only lasted about 2 years. Went with an aluminum bodied one for the second one and knock on wood still good after about 4 years now. They fit behind the power point door, I went with the always on displays
As Wesley mentioned, the aluminum body device is of a higher quality in my humble opinion. I had a plastic one with no switch prior to that and never used it.
I bought the aluminum version 10 Feb 2021 and it still works. I know that is not saying much...
I like the switched version for the ease of it being on or off during storage, but more for the distraction factor if driving at night. I rarely drive at night anymore because the level of Idiocracy within the driving population is out of control, but it does happen when going cross country.
I got bought these on ebay and installed them on the back doors, I used switch signal wire from the rear window motor, I still have to install the front ones bit overall good deal.
The one I linked is aluminum. I just installed it last week so can't make any claims to longevity. No switch to turn it off, so if that feature means a lot to you then no need to consider it. For me, it's no brighter than any of the other dash lights. Otherwise, I'd prioritize the switch too and immediately replace it with a unit that had one.
So yes you do have decisions. The choice is yours. Luckily, they arent super expensive nor complex to replace if you end up wishing you had gone a different route.
For the lower lighter socket I have this one which gives you 3 usbs and still leaves the lighter socket available for something else. The amber volt meter is easy to read. I find the blue volt meters can be hard to read in daylight without studying it which you can't do while driving, although that might just be the ones I've tried. I use it in 2 vehicles and the downward facing usbs come in handy depending on where you want the usb cords routed. The lower socket does stay energized all the time so you have to unplug it slightly if parking for extended periods.
I like the switched version for the ease of it being on or off during storage, but more for the distraction factor if driving at night. I rarely drive at night anymore because the level of Idiocracy within the driving population is out of control, but it does happen when going cross country.
Good luck with your project and stay warm today.
That's my thought on the switch. In a way I wish I could avoid driving at night, mostly because less deer than at night. On the other hand, around here we have less idiots and traffic out at night so its kind of nice. Doesn't matter, I don't get much choice in that. My primary driving is work commute, or heading to hunting property. Whether I work day shift or swing shift one direction willb e in the dark. During hunting season it's after dark (and after work) when I'm headed towards the lease to hunt the next morning.
Definitely doing that. Unless someone calls me asking for help, I don't intend to set foot outside my house until I head for work in the morning (If I head for work in the morning). I like looking at this blanket of white over everything and it rarely happens down here. There's nothing for me to do out there when it's like this. I'd rather stay in the house and let it look nice, knowing that it's going to get wet and muddy as soon as it melts.
Originally Posted by z31freakify
I got bought these on ebay and installed them on the back doors, I used switch signal wire from the rear window motor, I still have to install the front ones bit overall good deal.
That's actually a great idea! Unfortunately, I've got an extended cab with the half doors, I think it only has speaker wires going into them. Still, I like the idea of having outlets in the back seat to plug something in back there while driving, rather than having a cord running all the way up to the front. Someday when I get around to fixing the passenger side half door cables, I'll have to poke around and see if I like a spot to put some back there.
Originally Posted by bigb56
For the lower lighter socket I have this one which gives you 3 usbs and still leaves the lighter socket available for something else. The amber volt meter is easy to read. I find the blue volt meters can be hard to read in daylight without studying it which you can't do while driving, although that might just be the ones I've tried. I use it in 2 vehicles and the downward facing usbs come in handy depending on where you want the usb cords routed. The lower socket does stay energized all the time so you have to unplug it slightly if parking for extended periods.
I like the idea, but I can guarantee that would get borrowed and disappear. I'd probably grab it as a quick way to check battery voltage in another vehicle that's been sitting. Leave it in there while the battery charges and I use it for what ever I wanted it for. Forget to move it back to the F-250. A year later it'll get shuffled it into a bag of stuff to sort through someday while cleaning out that vehicle. A couple years after that I'll come across the bag to sort through and remember that I had the plug. Similar scenario has played out more than a couple of times.
Not discounting though. Do you have a manual transmission? I wonder if it would stick out far enough to interfere with the shifter. I know that there are alternate versions of the F-650 lower dash due clearance for the shift lever. I don't know that the auto version sticks out much further than this would, but it does stick out in a different location.
I’ve had a plug in Ainope brand aluminum one I got off Amazon in 2018 and it still works fine. Dual USB comes in handy for phones or other small L-ion devices. Handy for watching voltage in real time and it’s usually within 1/10th of a volt from the CTS insight PID.
If you’d prefer a plug in style but have concerns about borrowing for other vehicles, just buy one for each car. They’re only $10 each, you could get 3 for $30. There’s probably 3, 5, 10 packs at Amazon for cheaper per unit price. Just a thought.
We have plug in chargers in each of the cars (plus some). But nothing with the voltmeter. I’ve been considering which type to get for my truck as well.
If you’d prefer a plug in style but have concerns about borrowing for other vehicles, just buy one for each car. They’re only $10 each, you could get 3 for $30. There’s probably 3, 5, 10 packs at Amazon for cheaper per unit price. Just a thought.
We have plug in chargers in each of the cars (plus some). But nothing with the voltmeter. I’ve been considering which type to get for my truck as well.
LOL! Tried that too. Somehow they all still end up in the same vehicle or sitting in a drawer/box somewhere forgotten about.
Wired setup is probably the better choice for this.
I've been looking at the hard wired ones and haven't decided where I want to put it yet. Hate to drill my dash but might make a holder where the trash bag hook is. My post about the only lone connector under the dash gives me a perfect place access key on power and not have to turn it on and off using the red/yellow wire from that connector.
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