2022 7.3L has sat unused for four years. I'd like to check for algae in fuel before starting engine. I want to avoid injector and/or injector pump damage. Peak performance isn't a concern until I can fill with fresh diesel. I plan to siphon samples starting at bottom of tank and working up through levels in tank.. If I don't find black substance/liquid at any level, how risky would it be to use the fuel? If it looks bad plan B is draining fuel then replace with fresh diesel treated with Power Service Bio Kleen plus Power Service Clear-Diesel.

This is an E-350 and changing fuel filter is a real chore for my 80 year old body. What is the current version of Hutch Mod? I've owned this for a few years but had little opportunity to drive it nor reason for much service. Is there a trap and provision for routinely checking for and draining accumulated water?

On a previous occasion when it sat idle for 2 years the Low pressure oil pump lost prime. Does oil poured into HPOP reservoir run directly down into LPOP or does oil have to flow around and through engine before reaching LPOP? I ask because I would like to use as little oil as possible to avoid overfilling pan.

Looking forward to opinions on my plan or suggestions for alternates.

 

If it looks like diesel fuel and smells like diesel fuel I'd consider it likely safe. If it's sitting on a full tank I might siphon some off and just work it back in over the course of a few tanks.

the water drain is on the backside of the fuel bowl soooo...

Oil from the reservoir just runs down the front cover straight into the pan. No way to backwards prime the pup from there. It ight be possible from one of the plugged ports on the oil filter housing but never tried it. It's only an idea I had awhile back.

 

Your plan sounds good to me. Just remember you can't even turn on the key or the pump will start up and pull fuel into the rails.

 

Thank you. I figured as much on the water drain, that's the main reason I think Hutch Mod could be particularly beneficial on this truck. I have to remove multiple components just to be able to see the filter housing then stand on my head to change filter. Catching contaminates at Hutch should extend intervals of accessing factory installed filter.
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I had assumed overfilling HPOP reservoir caused overflow to "backward "prime LPOP. Knowing that isn't true means I should only add enough oil to fill reservoir because excess only contributes to overfilling oil pan.

Smart people don't allow their truck to set dormant and have to worry about this issue.

 

Thank you for the reassurance and heads up about running fuel pump before testing fuel in tank. Easily overlooked detail.

 

There are options for deleting the fuel bowl/filter housing in favor of a spin on filter mounted for your convivence. Vans are prime candidates in my opinion. The sheer nightmare it is to access the bowl and filter would be enough for me to hit the delete button, but then there's the unobstructed access to the rear of the engine that makes the install of the regulated return system a breeze. It's like peas and carrots or chocolate and peanut butter, just meant to be.

 

If there's algae, and it's a substantial amount of algae, in the tank and you add a biocide you'll probably end up plugging the screens in the tank. Maybe several times unless you delete them and add a filter before the pump. Then you'll probably plug that filter a few times. I had a boat that had over 600 gallons of algae laden fuel and it seemed like I never stopped changing Racor elements.

So, I typed all of that out to say I think if you find significant algae in the fuel, you should probably pump it out and get rid of it.

 

Agreed, thank you. If I remove fuel I will give it away for burning brush rather than treating and using. I have never dealt with algae so I'd like to know how to recognize degree of growth. I'm lead to believe water,fuel and algae often stratify layers when left undisturbed. Have you found that to be true? Do you think it's worth extra effort of taking samples at multiple levels in tank?

 

at a minimum,
I would install a big low micron fuel filter.

I am using a big Wix 24006, it is 10 microns, and will flow 15 gallons per minute.

mine was installed 20+ years ago by a Fire Department down in south Texas,
when I checked the fuel bowl, it was as clean as new, the filter element looked new.... and the cap had not been off in years, we had to chisel it off, it would not unscrew.... a big Monkey tightened it up beyond belief.

 

When you're ready to give it its first crank, I'd probably consider pulling the idm relay. So you can get the oil pressure up before actually firing it. That 'should' also fill your hpop. Sitting that long the cyl walls may be dry and the bearings probably are.