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Changing alternator connectors

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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 11:51 PM
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Changing alternator connectors

Is it possible to connect the alternator on the right to the wiring on the left if I change out the the connector on the vehicle wiring?:



Example vehicle would be a 1999 E-150 getting an alternator from a 2004 Crown Victoria.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 07:03 AM
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Unless you find someone who has figured it out, I would say no. Will the later model alternator work without the data connection? I do not know. Your early model does not use a data connection to the computer.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 11:29 AM
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Personally I would be leaning more towards the YES category, but I really don't know.

The connector on the left appears to be a G4 alternator.
The G3 ALT loops the stator connection externally, the G4 does this internally which is why the D connection isn't needed.
Also, the D, now RC, connection is an output on the right diagram as it is looped Internally.

The RC connection on the right diagram is the stator output, which is a pulsing output, which for example can be used to run a tach on a diesel engine. I don't think you will need this output signal.

Both ALT need a key ON input to bring the alternator online which is the I or LI.

Both ALT need a fat wire (yellow) to provide the voltage / current needed for the rotating (rotor) Field. This is also used as a reference voltage. Marked A or AS above.

If both of the voltage regulator have the same markings, " ground here to test"... Then the work the same internally. Meaning they regulate on the output brush which is the ground side. Full voltage/current is provided to the input brush, which also powers the brain in the voltage regulator.

There is a lot of different mounting styles, both patterns, so mounting it might be your biggest challenge.

Personally, due to the cost, I would definitely give it a try.
Good luck, Jim
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 11:54 AM
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After looking at images for a 6G Voltage regulator I realized it's a completely different animal.
So if you are trying to use a 6G which is controlled by a PCM, disregard my above post.

The only possibility is if you could swap the back covers of the alternator with the 4G or maybe using an non PCM controlled voltage regulator on the 6G.
Cool idea but probably won't work.
Jim
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 01:31 PM
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Here's a good read, by someone smarter then me.
It could be as simple as swap out the voltage regulator to a non PCM version.

https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf

It seems like you can get it to work.
Jim
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 11:16 PM
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Thanks for all of the responses! I'll check out the article.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
Here's a good read, by someone smarter then me.
It could be as simple as swap out the voltage regulator to a non PCM version.

https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf

It seems like you can get it to work.
Jim
Okay, I read it. I'll read it again with more sleep under my belt to see if it makes more sense. I also attached it here in case the PDF goes missing from the web site someday.
 
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