Changing alternator connectors
Example vehicle would be a 1999 E-150 getting an alternator from a 2004 Crown Victoria.
Thanks!
The connector on the left appears to be a G4 alternator.
The G3 ALT loops the stator connection externally, the G4 does this internally which is why the D connection isn't needed.
Also, the D, now RC, connection is an output on the right diagram as it is looped Internally.
The RC connection on the right diagram is the stator output, which is a pulsing output, which for example can be used to run a tach on a diesel engine. I don't think you will need this output signal.
Both ALT need a key ON input to bring the alternator online which is the I or LI.
Both ALT need a fat wire (yellow) to provide the voltage / current needed for the rotating (rotor) Field. This is also used as a reference voltage. Marked A or AS above.
If both of the voltage regulator have the same markings, " ground here to test"... Then the work the same internally. Meaning they regulate on the output brush which is the ground side. Full voltage/current is provided to the input brush, which also powers the brain in the voltage regulator.
There is a lot of different mounting styles, both patterns, so mounting it might be your biggest challenge.
Personally, due to the cost, I would definitely give it a try.
Good luck, Jim
So if you are trying to use a 6G which is controlled by a PCM, disregard my above post.
The only possibility is if you could swap the back covers of the alternator with the 4G or maybe using an non PCM controlled voltage regulator on the 6G.
Cool idea but probably won't work.
Jim
It could be as simple as swap out the voltage regulator to a non PCM version.
https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf
It seems like you can get it to work.
Jim
It could be as simple as swap out the voltage regulator to a non PCM version.
https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf
It seems like you can get it to work.
Jim












