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They list a KG4503 with stem/stem mounting and extended length of 14.53 inches and a compressed length of 9.53 inches which are both within 1/4 inch of my old KYBs. About a third the price of the Bilsteins at $40. Amazon sells them.
As these jobs do, this one expanded a bit. I'm trying to figure out why both upper shock mounts on the front have stress fractures. I wound up measuring the distance between the shock mounts with the front wheels off flat gound, axle hanging. Mount to mount was 17.25 inches on both sides. With wheels on the ground, that same mount to mount measurement is 14.24 inches. Good so far, nice and even. The old KYBs were 15 inches extended and 9.75 inches compressed.
The truck has been around- 37 States with the Alaskan Camper, Saline Valley in CA, all over Nevada back roads you name it. I'll bet that 15 inches extended shock wasn't enough, and was bottoming out under the right unloading conditions, like bad washboard etc. So after I repair or replace the mounts (rivets!), I'm thinking to go with the Bilsteins afterall (PN 55-R035). This shock has an extended/compressed ratio of 17.25/10.8. Not a lot of wiggle room I grant you but better than the KYBs, and are close to the middle of the range with wheels on the ground.
Besides, the truck is retired from camper duty, so it shouldn't be an issue. I'll be visiting the rear shocks too because who knows? I think at the time I just odered KYB shocks from someplace 30 years ago and the application guide led me to the ones I have which are not correct, at least in front.
Pulled the rears off - the same 30 year old KYB gas adjust as the front but a bit longer with an extended/compressed ratio of 18.5 and 11.75 inches. The distance between the mounts is 18.5 inches with the wheels on the ground which is probably a little more than stock since it's equipped with the helper springs. So these are short too at the limit of the range. Mounts look good, so I found KYB KG5522 Gas Adjust shocks with lengths of 21.3/13.03 which should sit in the middle of the range. Can't believe I drove it so long with the wrong shocks!
Make sure on the front end that your brake hoses don't end up being what limits the axle's downward movement.
At least that isn't an issue. Removing the rivets on the mounts is proving to be interesting. Grind? Drill? Air Chisel? There are six to remove (three on each side). I have a sheet metal cutter that did the first one by cutting the head of the rivet allowing me to punch the pin through. Took some pounding....
Got them both off. They are both broken in the same way. Easy to check this, so next time you guys are under there, have a look. In my case, I change the oil and hit all (22?) zerk fittings this time of year. That's when I noticed mine.
Wound up ordering new front upper shock mounts from LMC @ $54 for the pair including grade 8 hardware. They seem really well made- the holes line up perfectly and dimensionally they are pretty much spot on to the original. The material is 3/16-inch compared to the 1/8 inch that the original is made of. I like the extra material in front of the shock mounting hole too which is where the originals cracked. The frame holes had to be slightly enlarged to 3/8 inch for the bolts they include. The mistake I made was ordering two sets. Now I have 2 extra ones.
Fronts are finished with new Bilsteins installed.
I have an extra set of the mounts because I accidentally ordered two sets. If anybody needs them let me know.
On to the rears.
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