Here It Begins....
I am the proud new owner of a 1954 F600 as of today, actually about 6 hours ago. While it looks quite beautiful and has no major body or frame issues, it has things I am calling concerns. HA. I am not really prepared to ask all the questions I have, but more of an overview at this point, learn some tips and pointers, what to look for, what to avoid, etc. Be gentle, I am not only new to the forum but also new a lot of things with this truck. To start with I got rid of a 2023 Ram 3500 DRW (I know, I know, I know) and the list of problems right out of the gate were atrocious. Plus I needed a computer engineering degree to diagnose and fix anything, that's if it wasn't locked by the manufacturer. But I digress
The details; 1954 F600, 292 Y Block, 84,xxx original miles, Eaton 2 speed axle, literally a true barn find
The initial test drive was not horrible. Starts right up once you learn the sequence (choke, throttle, key, button) and idles nicely. Guy delivering it informs me as I am sitting there that he added brake fluid to the wheel cylinder before he loaded it up and "they're spongy". Oh, they're spongy alright. They go from spongy to locked up within about 3mm of brake pedal push.
Drive up the snowy icy hill was easy with the gears and 2 speed axle. I mean it was grunting something fierce but made it with no issues. 1L, 1H, 2L, 2H all great, easy shifting, acted like it should. Shifting from 2H to 3H was a grinding experience reminiscent of my first time driving a standard at 14 years old. But found the right spot and it fell into gear. Here is where the fun starts....
At about 45 mph the steering wheel started to violently (and I mean violently) attempt to rip my arms off to the left. My shoulders are still begging for some icyhot. The steering shaking didn't subside until I reduced speed down to about 25 mph. Then once I kept it under 45 headed back to the homestead, it didn't do it again, I wasn't going to chance it. In the meantime on the drive home, our local constable happened to be behind me, waited until I got to my home and then informed me I had no brake lights. He was very cool about the whole thing. They worked when I checked the vehicle over on delivery, all the lights did. I found a wire that had already snapped, so that's an easy fix just miffed the seller hid it the way he did.
All in all, I am looking to upgrade some things - carb, air cleaner, alternator, valve covers, wiring etc etc which are mostly cosmetic as they are all actually fine, but want to clean it up a little. So other than the steering issue, brakes and lights I am extremely pleased.
My Boy Blue!
Aside from your steering problems, you also have the dreaded Firestone RH-5 true Widowmaker rims. While many unwittingly and incorrectly apply the "widowmaker" moniker to any multi-piece rim, the Firestone RH-5 is the actual real widowmaker and should be taken seriously.
RH-5 rims can fail catastrophically and split at any time, either when manipulated for service, by road conditions, or even just sitting static unprovoked due to the nature of their design.let us be reminded that OSHA, Firestone, the NHTSA, and various state bodies (such as Utah) looked at recalls/bans in the 80's and determined that the effort was ultimately unwarranted, not because there wasn't a deserving safety issue, but that because since the introduction of single piece rims decades earlier coupled with the estimated service life of 10-15 years, the remaining population was insignificant and declining and essentially self-regulated out of existence. Yes, as always, there were politics involved as well. This leaves us hobbyist to watch out for each other.
*New tires don't make RH-5 rims safe to use.
*Using a cage, chain, or whatever doesn't make RH-5 rims safe to use.
*Inspection for rust/defects does not make RH-5 rims safe to use.
*Finding a shop that will assemble RH-5 rims does not make them safe to use.
You don't want to get yourself or others injured and face any potential lawsuits that would follow.
https://simonlawpc.com/defective-pro...wheel-defects/
Now, what can you do about it?
If you want to go tubeless, there are 22.5 and 19.5 single piece rims out there from some vehicles in the 70's/80's such as Dodge/Winnebago motor homes that use the 5 on 8 bolt pattern.
Going the traditional tubed style, you can also hunt down set of safer (used) lock-ring multipiece rims in 20" with the 5 on 8 lug pattern that are the proper width for your desired tire (usually 5.5-6.5").
There are those on the forum who have gotten new rims from Wheels Now, American Wheel, OTR. They have 19.5, 20, and 22.5 options with the 5 on 8 bolt patterns, but some of those have a different look to them. Not exactly click and order, but a call knowing what you need size and cosmetic wise with a big checkbook and order (and shared quite regularly around here already):
Wheels Now - https://www.wheelsnowinc.com
American Wheel - https://www.amwheelspecialist.com/obsolete/ - They specifically advertise 19.5, 20, and 22.5 solutions
OTR Wheel - https://www.otrwheel.com/ - their website doesn't list our applications. One would have to investigate further.
You've got a nice truck there and it is a great year.
I doubt you have the 292 Yblock unless it was put in later by someone. In 54 F600's got 239 engines. Your engine is painted the correct color for 54, red. You said you want to upgrade the valve colors? They are fine. All you need is new gaskets and to paint them the correct Argent silver and maybe put 1954 decals on.
The shaking at 45 mph? Could be a bent or crooked wheel, out of balance tire or a front end alignment is needed. But first get safe wheels like bmoran explained.
My 54 239 Yblock with oil bath air cleaner.
Side note: your heater hose is in the correct position, a long the firewall and then across the top of the manifold. But someone put your coil on the firewall.....
" But first get safe wheels like bmoran explained" -- Its one of my first calls this morning!
I will post updates along the way, thanks for the input!
That's a beautiful truck!
About the shaking at 45, I agree with Abe. A buddy of mine has a '50 F-3 and was getting that. Turned out to be his steering box mounting bolts to the frame were loose. After he tightened them no more problems. I also had the same shaking problem on my 56 F-100. I found the toe in way off, the right side wheel was 5/8" farther out than the left. Could of fooled me. It steered just fine, until you hit just the right bump. All of your steering components need to be checked over. The steering box, pitman arm, drag link with its connections, tie rod ends, and king pin play. Hopefully they were all greased somewhat regularly through the years. But all that can wait, til you get rid of the widowmakers.
Looking forward to reading more about your journey and experiences with that great rig!
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I'm working on finding someone who will not only get the widowmakers off, but have a decent replacement. Custom made wheels just aren't in the current budget. Might have to rethink that whole budget thing, it's only money, right?!?!?!?
Raised ridge suggests a RH5
No raised ridge
See the split in the upper right















