Fixing vs replacing motor
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3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2023
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Fixing vs replacing motor
I have a 1986 F150 Lariat XLT Supercab and it currently has a 3 speed transmission. I inherited it from my stepdad and it only had 85k original miles when I started working on it. Unfortunately, it sat for 8 years so I've replaced many things already such as fuel tanks, lines, injectors, starter, solenoid, AC, etc., but I still have a slow main seal leak. I have a repair shop I trust, who said when its time, they'd do a total reseal of the motor for roughly $3k-$4k.
I started doing research and found where I could purchase a zero miles, above OEM rebuild for the same price. Given that I still hear knocking in my current motor, which now has 91k miles, wouldn't it make more sense to purchase the rebuilt motor with no miles? That's if I went with the same 5.0L 302 V-8, which only has a max HP of 290.
Has anyone done something similar?
Thanks,
I started doing research and found where I could purchase a zero miles, above OEM rebuild for the same price. Given that I still hear knocking in my current motor, which now has 91k miles, wouldn't it make more sense to purchase the rebuilt motor with no miles? That's if I went with the same 5.0L 302 V-8, which only has a max HP of 290.
Has anyone done something similar?
Thanks,
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Welcome to FTE
If me and the motor had any "knocking" a "full reseal" will not fix that just stop the leaks at least that is how I read it.
With that said I would go for 0 miles motor.
Now you say 3k to 4k to reseal so I am guessing they will be pulling it.
I cant see then spending the labor time to take it a parts for gaskets and still have a knock when they can just move, labor, the needed parts from the old motor to the new one and motor on.
So I think you can see I am for replace with 0 miles
Dave ----
If me and the motor had any "knocking" a "full reseal" will not fix that just stop the leaks at least that is how I read it.
With that said I would go for 0 miles motor.
Now you say 3k to 4k to reseal so I am guessing they will be pulling it.
I cant see then spending the labor time to take it a parts for gaskets and still have a knock when they can just move, labor, the needed parts from the old motor to the new one and motor on.
So I think you can see I am for replace with 0 miles
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
Labor. These old trucks are expensive if you do not do your own work. What do shops get now? Over $100 per hour I would guess.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,641
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From: Tolland, CT
Yep, get the new 302 and clutch kit and have that installed. My 302 crate motor installed back in Sept 1991 is doing great. It now has about 45.000 miles on it. The EFI works good with today's fuels.
EDIT, I'll add because at 96,000 miles the engine had a knock. I remember the day, when Dad stopped by as I was mowing the lawn. I shut off the mower as he was backing in the driveway. Before he shut the truck off, I could hear the knock from a few feet away. He bought the truck used with about 86,000 miles on it, was told they were mostly highway miles. Funny how somethings you never forget.
EDIT, I'll add because at 96,000 miles the engine had a knock. I remember the day, when Dad stopped by as I was mowing the lawn. I shut off the mower as he was backing in the driveway. Before he shut the truck off, I could hear the knock from a few feet away. He bought the truck used with about 86,000 miles on it, was told they were mostly highway miles. Funny how somethings you never forget.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 1,152
From: Tolland, CT
Have you talked with a local auto machine shop to see what they can do with your engine. Sounds like you don't have much mechanical ability, or you would be asking how hard is it to remove the engine. If you have some ability, it should not be to hard as long as you have the space and tools.
I'm sure there are youtube video's on pulling the engine out of one of these.
Here's my local shop, to give you an idea. https://eastwoodsautomachine.com/
The problem now is, a lot of shops are busy this time of year. There returning customers have their engine in being refreshed for the coming Spring time. But if you have the time, it would be a good way to go.
I'm sure there are youtube video's on pulling the engine out of one of these.
Here's my local shop, to give you an idea. https://eastwoodsautomachine.com/
The problem now is, a lot of shops are busy this time of year. There returning customers have their engine in being refreshed for the coming Spring time. But if you have the time, it would be a good way to go.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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I’m missing something. Why would you have the engine removed for a “total reseal” when only the <$20 rear main is bad? Is there reason you aren’t considering only replacing the rear main seal? I don’t know what they would charge to R&R the transmission but I’d guess 6 hours labor so you are well
under $1K to fix the problem.
under $1K to fix the problem.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I’m missing something. Why would you have the engine removed for a “total reseal” when only the <$20 rear main is bad? Is there reason you aren’t considering only replacing the rear main seal? I don’t know what they would charge to R&R the transmission but I’d guess 6 hours labor so you are well
under $1K to fix the problem.
under $1K to fix the problem.
That leaves the front cover & seal and valve covers, maybe the intake?
If the front cover is off then do a timing chain, but you still have the noise and a motor with how many miles?
Dave ----
Hotshot
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Somehow I missed the knocking noise but is that coming from the engine or somewhere else? Maybe in the bell housing? A 302 should not be worn out with only 91K on the ticker unless stepdad abused it.
I definitely would be looking at a long block if the engine was determined to have a noise in the bottom end.
I definitely would be looking at a long block if the engine was determined to have a noise in the bottom end.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,828
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From: Angier, NC
Not hearing the noise and the OP only telling us it has a noise we can only guess motor.
Could be a broken piston from spark knock or wrist pin noise.
If it was a main or rod it would be a really bad noise and no oil PSI in my book.
Dave ----
Could be a broken piston from spark knock or wrist pin noise.
If it was a main or rod it would be a really bad noise and no oil PSI in my book.
Dave ----
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