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I replaced the wheel bearings in my 92 f150 4x4 front driver side and every video I’ve seen on it had multiple nuts and washers while mine has the hub lock ring, after removing the locking hub mechanism there is a snap ring, then the lock nut and outer bearing.
my question is: is this the right sequence? And what is the torque spec for this axle lock nut?
I just tightened it pretty tight while spinning the hub then backed it off then tightened it again when I drive at high speeds I don’t feel any movement or anything but I hear what sounds like metal touching metal slightly perhaps I didn’t grease everything enough or maybe the locking nut is too tight or loose. Any guidance would be great here.
Manual hubs or auto make a difference in the wheel bearing adjusting nuts
Post a picture of the setup you have
The inner nut on the two nut style does the adjustment, and the outer one is the lock nut
The one nut style has the circlip and washers but not in 1992
Your 1992 even with auto hubs would have had 2 nuts and a washer with the holes in it between them
The auto hubs (in 1992), use the washer with the holes that has the 4 tabs that stick out to operate the automatic hub
It took me a while to find a good picture… is this the type of spindle nut on your truck?
This question gets asked every so often.
or this from the Haynes manual that I also posted.
Yes that’s the spindle nut I have. Thanks for the added instructions I didn’t realize it had to be engaged and disengaged. I’ll have to look into this more so I can make sure it’s done right.
my other question is the location of the snap ring.. most videos I’ve seen it sort of towards the front of the spindle like here
while mine is actually behind the locking hub mechanism instead of in front of it. Seated deep into the spindle right in front of that lock nut.. do you know if that was correct? I just put it back that way since that’s how I found it but I haven’t seen another like it.
Manual hubs or auto make a difference in the wheel bearing adjusting nuts
Post a picture of the setup you have
The inner nut on the two nut style does the adjustment, and the outer one is the lock nut
The one nut style has the circlip and washers but not in 1992
Your 1992 even with auto hubs would have had 2 nuts and a washer with the holes in it between them
The auto hubs (in 1992), use the washer with the holes that has the 4 tabs that stick out to operate the automatic hub
well mine doesn’t have that two lock nut set up it only has one like My4Fordtrucks posted below.
There should be a snap ring in the groove of the axle *stub* shaft. There is also a retaining ring that goes in the groove on the inside of the wheel hub.
There should be a snap ring in the groove of the axle stud shaft. There is also a retaining ring that goes in the groove on the inside of the wheel hub.
I guess I had a photo on my phone of it. This part is where I found the snap ring.
I have this right after the face of the locking hub (like normal)
then this after the inner part of the locking hub comes out and before the lock nut.
sorry if I’m saying the same thing I just want to make sure I have this placed correctly.
Manual hubs or auto make a difference in the wheel bearing adjusting nuts
Post a picture of the setup you have
The inner nut on the two nut style does the adjustment, and the outer one is the lock nut
The one nut style has the circlip and washers but not in 1992
Your 1992 even with auto hubs would have had 2 nuts and a washer with the holes in it between them
The auto hubs (in 1992), use the washer with the holes that has the 4 tabs that stick out to operate the automatic hub
this is the only photo I took unfortunately I didn’t realize I’d have a problem at the time.
When I removed the face of the locking hub I had this (as usual)
then I remove the inner part of the locking hub mechanism and found this
then after this piece the locking nut was able to be removed.
I would assume it’s correct because that’s how I found it but I’ve also not seen another set up like this so that’s why I’m unsure.
Torque the spindle nut to specs. Install locking hub body. In no particular order:
Install this part
in this groove
and snap ring on axle stub shaft. Then outer locking hub and screws. All of this is basic maintenance stuff is covered in a Chilton or Haynes manual.
I torqued the axle nut to spec. That snap ring still didn’t have a place other than where I originally found it so I just put it there and I put that lock ring after the locking hub as usual. Drives fine. I’ll check it again later. Do you happen to know if that snap ring is sometimes not needed for the hub assemblies? I think I’m gonna purchase the two nut styled wheel bearing locknuts instead of this hi-shear one there’s just a lot more information and seem more common. Again, I appreciate the knowledge.
my other question is the location of the snap ring.. most videos I’ve seen it sort of towards the front of the spindle like here
while mine is actually behind the locking hub mechanism instead of in front of it. Seated deep into the spindle right in front of that lock nut.. do you know if that was correct? I just put it back that way since that’s how I found it but I haven’t seen another like it.
I didn’t understand what this meant and am still not sure. The green arrow points to the wheel hub, red circle (combined with the other piece with the dial) is part of the locking hub assembly. The other part in purple is the end of the axle shaft. You cannot see the spindle in this picture. This is a spindle
Behind the locking hub instead of in front of it? That doesn’t make sense to me either. If you put the snap ring on the stub shaft then you wouldn’t be able to slide the locking hub body into the wheel hub.
Originally Posted by brandobronco
I torqued the axle nut to spec. That snap ring still didn’t have a place other than where I originally found it so I just put it there and I put that lock ring after the locking hub as usual. Drives fine. I’ll check it again later. Do you happen to know if that snap ring is sometimes not needed for the hub assemblies? I think I’m gonna purchase the two nut styled wheel bearing locknuts instead of this hi-shear one there’s just a lot more information and seem more common. Again, I appreciate the knowledge.
The snap ring goes on the end of the axle stub shaft. This is the axle stub shaft
and Groove for snap ring
No you don’t need the snap ring but it does keep the axle shaft from moving inboard towards the differential as much as it could without it. I suppose you could waste your money on the other style spindle nut. You already have all the information there is to know about the hi-shear style spindle nut. Torque it down while spinning the rotor. Back off the nut. Retorque to new setting. Done. The other style is requires more steps and obviously has more pieces to make it work.
I didn’t understand what this meant and am still not sure. You cannot see the spindle in this picture. This is a spindle
Behind the locking hub instead of in front of it? That doesn’t make sense to me either. If you put the snap ring on the stub shaft you wouldn’t be able to slide the locking hub body into the wheel hub.
The snap ring goes on the end of the axle stub shaft. This is the axle stub shaft
and Groove for snap ring
No you don’t need the snap ring but it does keep the axle shaft from moving inboard towards the differential as much as it could without it. I suppose you could waste your money on the other style spindle nut. You already have all the information there is to know about the hi-shear style spindle nut. Torque it down while spinning the rotor. Back off the nut. Retorque to new setting. Done. The other style is requires more steps and obviously has more pieces to make it work.
Yeah I named the wrong parts. Yes i meant the snap ring goes in front of the locking hub like I’ve seen in many videos but I found it behind the locking hub and in front of the lock nut on the axle stub shaft. I put it back there.
For some reason that groove couldn’t be reached with the locking hub on there. That’s why I said maybe I’ll get the other style locking nut and hopefully it can go together as I’ve seen others do.
I don’t know what snap ring you are talking about that goes up against the spindle nut. I have the hi-shear nut on the ‘87 and had that style on the ‘89 but when I changed the entire axle assembly (wheel to wheel) I used the two nut style that came with that axle. Neither style has a snap ring in that location.
I don’t know what snap ring you are talking about that goes up against the spindle nut. I have the hi-shear nut on the ‘87 and had that style on the ‘89 but when I changed the entire axle assembly (wheel to wheel) I used the two nut style that came with that axle. Neither style has a snap ring in that location.
yes I know you don’t know what I’m talking about because I don’t believe it’s right. It should go where you labeled it in the picture in your previous reply. I don’t know why it’s back there against the spindle nut but that’s where I found it must’ve been done incorrectly. For whatever reason I can’t put it in its correct spot hence me wanting to get the two nut style hoping I can put it all back and have no pieces out of place or extra.
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That doesn’t make sense to me either. If you put the snap ring on the stub shaft then you wouldn’t be able to slide the locking hub body into the wheel hub.
