Carter YFA carb…dashpot question
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
Carter YFA carb…dashpot question
I am currently rebuilding my YFA Carter. It’s on a 76 f100 3 speed in the tree.
my question is the carb had a dashpot on it. The dashpot isn’t functional, I found a replacement but is it needed?
Ive been researching the intended purpose and I am finding conflicting info. Some say on manuals it helps with preventing dieseling on **** down and some says it’s for anti-stall and only needed in automatic transmissions.
I looked in the shop manual and didn’t find where is states auto/manual.
what has been your experience!
my truck does diesel a tiny bit, it could also have been a vacuum leak or timing as well.
my question is the carb had a dashpot on it. The dashpot isn’t functional, I found a replacement but is it needed?
Ive been researching the intended purpose and I am finding conflicting info. Some say on manuals it helps with preventing dieseling on **** down and some says it’s for anti-stall and only needed in automatic transmissions.
I looked in the shop manual and didn’t find where is states auto/manual.
what has been your experience!
my truck does diesel a tiny bit, it could also have been a vacuum leak or timing as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
It was used on both auto and manual.
if the throttle plate is closed suddenly, the carb will run very rich for a few seconds.
Someone driving behind you can smell this very strong unburned gas, plus increases pollution.
May keep spark plugs cleaner.
The dashpot prevents this sudden close.
if the throttle plate is closed suddenly, the carb will run very rich for a few seconds.
Someone driving behind you can smell this very strong unburned gas, plus increases pollution.
May keep spark plugs cleaner.
The dashpot prevents this sudden close.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
The Carter YFA was designed for a working EGR.
It has huge air bleeds designed into it that offset the EGR system.
Without working EGR it will run way too lean, hard to start when cold, will diesel when tuned-off, can burn valves.
It has huge air bleeds designed into it that offset the EGR system.
Without working EGR it will run way too lean, hard to start when cold, will diesel when tuned-off, can burn valves.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
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Likes: 248
If you know YFA’s I would love to pick your brain. I just finished rebuilding it today and have a few questions. (I use Mikes carbs)
ultimately I would like to get everything working per OEM specs. The PO blocked off the EGR, the vacuum lines are incorrectly routed I think. Truck is a 76 but the carb/valve cover etc all says D8TE so I’ve been trying to look up 78 parts for reference.
I need a dashpot, EGR valve, and the EGR WOT throttle valve works but it really sticky.
Lastly the whole Y fork and bowl vent shut off lever has me baffled. I looked in the shop manual but it doesn’t get into that detail.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
If you know YFA’s I would love to pick your brain. I just finished rebuilding it today and have a few questions. (I use Mikes carbs)
ultimately I would like to get everything working per OEM specs. The PO blocked off the EGR, the vacuum lines are incorrectly routed I think. Truck is a 76 but the carb/valve cover etc all says D8TE so I’ve been trying to look up 78 parts for reference.
I need a dashpot, EGR valve, and the EGR WOT throttle valve works but it really sticky.
Lastly the whole Y fork and bowl vent shut off lever has me baffled. I looked in the shop manual but it doesn’t get into that detail.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
I'm not on mustang forum.
I don't remember what the Y fork is for. It could be to stop fuel from flowing into vent on a hard stop.
The last YF (YF for non-EGR) I played with, I drilled a hole in the top and tapped it for a 1/4" plug so I could unscrew the plug and adjust the metering rod height while it was running. Worked good for fine tuning.
I'm glad you rebuilt yours instead of buying a new or remanufactured. They always have the wrong jets and metering rods in them. Major problem.
I don't remember what the Y fork is for. It could be to stop fuel from flowing into vent on a hard stop.
The last YF (YF for non-EGR) I played with, I drilled a hole in the top and tapped it for a 1/4" plug so I could unscrew the plug and adjust the metering rod height while it was running. Worked good for fine tuning.
I'm glad you rebuilt yours instead of buying a new or remanufactured. They always have the wrong jets and metering rods in them. Major problem.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
I'm not on mustang forum.
I don't remember what the Y fork is for. It could be to stop fuel from flowing into vent on a hard stop.
The last YF (YF for non-EGR) I played with, I drilled a hole in the top and tapped it for a 1/4" plug so I could unscrew the plug and adjust the metering rod height while it was running. Worked good for fine tuning.
I'm glad you rebuilt yours instead of buying a new or remanufactured. They always have the wrong jets and metering rods in them. Major problem.
I don't remember what the Y fork is for. It could be to stop fuel from flowing into vent on a hard stop.
The last YF (YF for non-EGR) I played with, I drilled a hole in the top and tapped it for a 1/4" plug so I could unscrew the plug and adjust the metering rod height while it was running. Worked good for fine tuning.
I'm glad you rebuilt yours instead of buying a new or remanufactured. They always have the wrong jets and metering rods in them. Major problem.
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