When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I simply cannot get the wheel of the '53 off the column to repair the cracks. The horn button was off for 30 years and I'm sure it's rusted on the spline. I've soaked it in WD-40, tried (and broke) several types of gear pullers, no joy. I tried hammering the backside using a punch thru the holes in the metal "cup" attached to the column on the underside of the wheel. I was going to use a bearing splitter like I saw in one thread, but the metal cup is in the way. Is it just spot welded on? How would I remove it to give clearance for the splitter?
Just me, but I would ditch the WD40 on this job and go with PB Blaster. At least for me it works much, much better. Liberally spray that, let it sit overnight. You may want to chase the threads of the holes in the steering wheel to clean them out good. Put on another steering wheel puller and tighten it down good, smack the puller bolt head with a hammer, tighten down the bolt head again, smack with hammer, etc. This may be a job that takes a day or two as you are repeating the cycle of spraying. tightening , smacking with hammer, then letting it sit for a few hours and repeat the cycle again. Leaving the puller tightened again.
As far as the bell under the steering wheel. I don't know if it's removable. It's part of the steering column.
Just another tip. Leave the steering wheel nut on the end of the shaft when doing all of this to protect the shafts' end.
Thanks, I do have some PB Blaster and will use it. I'll have to find another puller, I literally broke 2 of the ones I used. Biggest issue is that the two threaded holes in the steering wheel are so close together it's hard to find an H type puller that aligns.
Use a rust buster(PB or similar), put a puller on the wheel, apply pressure and then take a BFH and strike the end of puller, in essence driving the steering shaft down away from the steering wheel. Never failed to work in 40 plus years.
Or something I heard on a podcast this morning. Even though they were talking about pulling apart exhaust system flanges it might be another idea to keep in mind. Gently use heat on where the shaft is sticking through the steering wheel spline, then melt a crayon, candle, something that contains wax into it. Let it cool then try to pull it. If it doesn't come loose do it again.
Kroil is the best....liquid gold when you buy it but worth it. Go through several cycles of heating, then kroil. repeat times 5 days. after you heat, the kroil has a chance to "seep" in. Be patient.
One thing I should mention- when I pulled my wheel off 1st time I belled out the tube- you don't want to do that! It's hard to get it straightened out. Put the nut back on loose so it is flat with the tube and use a washer so the cone of the puller pushes on the washer and nut. Then after it pops loose take off washer and nut and wheel should come off. I don't remember it being on super hard, my normal universal wheel puller worked- but as I said, I did mess up end of hollow tube. Let us know how it goes!