How did I do?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
-fuel system hoses
-carb rebuild
-small fuel hoses
-primary take fill/vent hoses (need 2 order)
-aux tank fill/vent hoses (received/shed)
-carb rebuild kit from mikes carb (received)
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 296
Likes: 84
From: Charleston, SC
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
When I was changing the valve cover gasket I noticed the base of the carb was loose, the screws aren’t accessible from the bottom with the carb installed. I got a kit mainly for the base/flange gasket. I figured if I am going to take it off I should just go through it.
it’s low on the priority list because it does start/run just fine.
it’s low on the priority list because it does start/run just fine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 965
From: Near Yosemite CA
thanks for the nice comment.
so I’ve watch a few YouTube builds going from stock 1barrel to offy/4 barrel, EFI manifolds and they turn out impressive numbers.
agree offy is hard to swallow but cheaper than I can build up a cheap factory 302 roller. What’s super tempting is my buddy has a 460 for CHEAP!! He just rebuilt it. His builds motors as a side job.
since you’ve done a few, I assume it’s significant change?
so I’ve watch a few YouTube builds going from stock 1barrel to offy/4 barrel, EFI manifolds and they turn out impressive numbers.
agree offy is hard to swallow but cheaper than I can build up a cheap factory 302 roller. What’s super tempting is my buddy has a 460 for CHEAP!! He just rebuilt it. His builds motors as a side job.
since you’ve done a few, I assume it’s significant change?
Gearing, as with any engine, is the key, getting in the sweet spot in rpm's. The 300's are inherently smooth, the one I had in my 66 F250 my machinist balanced it for me, butter smooth and I ran it up to 4500+ a couple times, you could feel it drop off, but it really pulled up to 44-4500
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,175
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
When I had my trick c6, built by the guy who used to build them for the baja 1000 racers, I used to spin my 300 over 5k routinely. With my engine, I changed from a 390 gas hog. I kept the hp and doubled the mpg. Now, with the ZF5, I am content with long, strong pulls in each gear. I do admit that on occasion I miss my tricked out c6.
After having had 3 300's, I would give you this advise: Choose a cam that accentuates the natural characteristics of the 300, and that is bottom end torque. The Isky 256 is perfect. Get over-size valves, 194 int, and 1.60 exh, and you will be amazed. Couple that with free flowing exhaust, MSD ignition through a Duraspark2 distributor recurved, with a 4v intake and nice 4v carb, and you'll have the hp of a stock 360 with much better mpg. Good luck.
After having had 3 300's, I would give you this advise: Choose a cam that accentuates the natural characteristics of the 300, and that is bottom end torque. The Isky 256 is perfect. Get over-size valves, 194 int, and 1.60 exh, and you will be amazed. Couple that with free flowing exhaust, MSD ignition through a Duraspark2 distributor recurved, with a 4v intake and nice 4v carb, and you'll have the hp of a stock 360 with much better mpg. Good luck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 3,353
From: South Central Utah
When I was changing the valve cover gasket I noticed the base of the carb was loose, the screws aren’t accessible from the bottom with the carb installed. I got a kit mainly for the base/flange gasket. I figured if I am going to take it off I should just go through it.
it’s low on the priority list because it does start/run just fine.
it’s low on the priority list because it does start/run just fine.
We used to replace them with a larger screw.
I wish I could remember what size, you might want to google or YouTube it.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
Yes it is, the stock 1bbl dies well, but adding 3 more holes, especially when you mash it, it surprises many! My 79 F250 4x I sold to my BIL, 300/Offy w/390/EFI man/NP435/4.10's and 33's I drove it from Kalifornia to MO, averaged 18+ mpg for 1800 miles had a few times when I opened it up to play with others, had one guy pull into gas station with me wondering what it had and he was like..wtf?!! Now granted it's not 351C/460 power, but it does well Gearing, as with any engine, is the key, getting in the sweet spot in rpm's. The 300's are inherently smooth, the one I had in my 66 F250 my machinist balanced it for me, butter smooth and I ran it up to 4500+ a couple times, you could feel it drop off, but it really pulled up to 44-4500
Gearing, as with any engine, is the key, getting in the sweet spot in rpm's. The 300's are inherently smooth, the one I had in my 66 F250 my machinist balanced it for me, butter smooth and I ran it up to 4500+ a couple times, you could feel it drop off, but it really pulled up to 44-4500
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
thanks for the info. I might use some blue loctite or small dab of epoxy or maybe find the correct size lock/star washer.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
When I had my trick c6, built by the guy who used to build them for the baja 1000 racers, I used to spin my 300 over 5k routinely. With my engine, I changed from a 390 gas hog. I kept the hp and doubled the mpg. Now, with the ZF5, I am content with long, strong pulls in each gear. I do admit that on occasion I miss my tricked out c6.
After having had 3 300's, I would give you this advise: Choose a cam that accentuates the natural characteristics of the 300, and that is bottom end torque. The Isky 256 is perfect. Get over-size valves, 194 int, and 1.60 exh, and you will be amazed. Couple that with free flowing exhaust, MSD ignition through a Duraspark2 distributor recurved, with a 4v intake and nice 4v carb, and you'll have the hp of a stock 360 with much better mpg. Good luck.
After having had 3 300's, I would give you this advise: Choose a cam that accentuates the natural characteristics of the 300, and that is bottom end torque. The Isky 256 is perfect. Get over-size valves, 194 int, and 1.60 exh, and you will be amazed. Couple that with free flowing exhaust, MSD ignition through a Duraspark2 distributor recurved, with a 4v intake and nice 4v carb, and you'll have the hp of a stock 360 with much better mpg. Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,175
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
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OMGoodness. That 300 will be powerless with 3.0 gears. 3.73 would be ideal. Wait a minute. A farm truck with 3.0 rears? Beep. That doesn't sound right. There's no way that truck used to haul/tow with 3.0 gears. Oh, wait, you did say it needed a clutch. And now you know why. For best mpg and power, as I read in a Ford publication, go with 3.73 gears.
after I do the clutch and radius arm bushings I am going to go through the 9” completely and do all the bearing/seals/ gears and put in a limited slip in.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 3,353
From: South Central Utah
But its not going to come apart going 70 mph either.
I would think 3:00 should work pretty good all around.
Nope, not the best for power or hauling heavy loads but just fine for a 6cyl 3 on the tree and just running around and light hauling.
I would think 3:00 should work pretty good all around.
Nope, not the best for power or hauling heavy loads but just fine for a 6cyl 3 on the tree and just running around and light hauling.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
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Likes: 248
Once the clutch is replaced and I get a good carb/timing tune I’ll be able to see how to 3.00 is. This truck won’t tow anything serious. I have a diesel for that. It will haul some landscape gravel, lumber, dirt bikes, furniture, camping gear etc. The most towing it might do is moving around a 18” car hauler trailer.