I now have the AIS on the F350 with a new blue Donaldson filter in there. I did the secret zoodad mod also. The filter minder only pulls to the first green area with some spirited driving. Can't remember which tune I have loaded, but thinking it's an 80 or 120 version. If I lug the motor from 45+mph it pulls strong. If I push it off a stop light it seems to lay down in mid-upper part of second gear. It did this before with the old filter setup, but I believe it may have started when I made the mods to the turbo...Riffraff 4+4 billet compressor wheel, KC s300 turbine wheel, 8-turn wastegate actuator mod...and I still have the red line hooked up to the wastegate actuator. I thought at first it may be an over boost issue where the PCM is pulling fuel away from it, but I'm not getting an SEL light or a DTC for that. It does feel like it's running out of fuel as I can pedal the throttle in/out a little with no changes. I'm thinking about unplugging the MAP sensor and go for a short spin to see if it still does it thinking this might be a test for the over boost PCM pulling fuel...

 

pull out your green and red lines...put a rubber cap where they were attached. The red line pressure is opening your wastegate early, let the spring do the work.

 

I agree. First step, I’d remove and plug the red line and give it another test run.

 

This makes sense so I'll try that tomorrow. Should I get rid of both the red and green lines along with the solenoid? I read somewhere...think it was Cletus...something about them helping with low rpm boost. I'm guessing a boost fooler is in my future? I'll order some vacuum line caps tonight for the finished product. Does the wastegate actuator get a cap too?

 

I would get rid of both....you prob wont need a boost fooler if you are running a Hydra. Wastegate doesnt need a cap tho.

 

You can get rid of them or just plug the red line.

If you do remove the whole shebang, a cap on the spyder nipple with a small zip tie to hold it on works well.

The lines do not help with making boost. They are used to reduce boost. It allows the PCM to blow the gate open using the solenoid.

Without the lines the wastegate will still work. It will just open mechanically based off spring pressure instead of letting the PCM decide whenever it wants to.

 

check the red circle areas...this is how I did mine. You can ignore the arrow, it was used for another post.

 

I pulled the red line off the actuator and put it on the end of one of the clamp bolts, so it was essentially capped. It still did the same thing and continues to now. I noticed a couple weeks ago that the SES light flickered when coming out of Refugio after I hit the Resume on the cruise control at about 45 mph, it down shifted and got back up to 70 mph. I haven't checked codes since then, but I'm leaning towards the PCM cutting back on fuel. I've also noticed since the AIS install, the filter minder doesn't get pulled more than the first mark on it. I'll be looking into a boost fooler at this point. Is there a way to confirm this is what I need before I spend the time and money...maybe unplug the sensor or solenoid...

 

Have you already ruled out fuel pressure or torque converter slip?

 

I'm running over 25psi w/ no defuel. I don't know how far over because I'm maxing out the stock MAP sensor. But KC's balanced assy generally gets ~30psi +/- on most of the healthy trucks. But on the stock catalog hydra tunes I'm not defueling. And I thought overboost would leave a code.

What boost pressure are you achieving?

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

 

Purdy much, but I'll check codes today.

I too purdy much have the KC balanced assembly...360* bearing rebuild, KC s300 turbine, Riffraff 4+4 billet compressor wheel. The truck ran hard and strong before I did this last year. I think the Hydra will not allow defueling...like a boost fooler...but I have a SCT, which does from what I've read. The truck runs good until it starts making good boost, then it just lays down and doesn't continue pulling, which is why I suspect defueling from over boost. I will check the codes today to see what's in there. I do have a fuel pressure gauge sitting here to go on the truck, but I was waiting until I can get the other gauges so I can install them all at once.

 

I made an assumption, when you said you had a tune... I'm not sure on SCT, so it is a possibility then. I believe that kicks in around the same time the map tops out on the factory setup.

 

I think the red arrow is important as well... don't want that vibrating off and sucking in squirrels and small rodents at full throttle!

 

The saga continues. I did find a small boost leak at the joint where the spider mates to the turbo...it had blown some oil back on the turbo, from the doghouse inlet I presume. It runs better, but still not right. If I put the skinny pedal on the wood it seems okay in first gear, but second and third will basically fall off around 2,500rpm and not go any further...at that point I can get out of the throttle a little and it will actually run up slowly. If I lug the motor around 45mph and get into the throttle, it will throw a little black smoke for a bit and clean up once it hits about 55mph-60mph, but it pulls hard like it should, though it's never really thrown any black smoke except a little puff at tip in.

Today I again unhooked the map sensor with no change other than getting the SEL light, which went away when hooked back up. I also unhooked the red line to the waste gate and plugged it onto one of the boot T-clamps, and that didn't do anything different.

I have some gauges to go on the truck, but I'm waiting on getting a boost gauge hopefully this week with the sales. I'm thinking I need a 35psi gauge in lieu of a 30psi or 60psi if anyone has any input in that, but I probably won't be going any bigger on the turbo or injectors...at least for a long while...

 

The description in your last post makes me think of lack of fuel volume or losing ICP.

Have you checked fuel pressure during low power?
How about ICP?