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I’m getting a 5.8 out of a ‘94 ford and I’m wanting to put my potential build out there and see what y’all think.
the 5.8 is coming out of a ‘94 F250, it’s on a 4x4 E4OD and will have the stock 4.10 rear end. It’s almost certainly Speed Density not Mass Air. Meaning I can’t get too wild with the upgrades. It does have roller cam. Below is my potential build, can anyone tell me if it will work, and what performance I may can expect?
engine rebuild and bored .030
new pistons and rings
replace oil and water pumps
upgrade distributor
gt40 heads (drilled to fit)
1.7” roller rockers
New headers/exhaust
bump ignition timing forward from the stock 10* to that 33*-35* sweet spot
so a really mild build I’d think. Am I missing anything? It’s going into a 4x4 f150 that will probably run 31’s…I’m not looking for 400 hp or anything. But getting close to 300 might be kinda cool. I’m also wanting the engine to be much more responsive.
Last edited by Brennon; Nov 28, 2024 at 12:47 PM.
Reason: Technical correction
Big no to the distributor and timing change.
the stock distributor tolerances are a lot better than any aftermarket one. If you need another, get a used ford one.
the initial timing is set at ten degrees specifically because that’s where the computer thinks it is . It’s hard coded in the computer for 10 degrees, all timing tables are programmed for that.
The good thing about changing the timing, you can always change it back. Truck timing was not too aggressive.
I don’t think that would work too good if the OP sets base timing to 33-35° and then the computer is advancing it another 10-30° but maybe you’re right.
The 351 28oz flywheel from the 250 will not work with the 4r70 if that is the transmission in your 150.
I just went through that and finally had to re use the 302 flywheel after I had it rebalanced to 28 oz. The offset of the e4od flywheel pushes the converter against the front pump and will destroy it. I tried several and could not get the correct clearance. There probably is a flywheel that will work but I finally gave up. I also had problems with Oreilly flywheels from Pioneer, I kept getting the wrong flywheel in in the correctly marked box.
Maybe Mark Kowalski knows which one will work.
The 351 28oz flywheel from the 250 will not work with the 4r70 if that is the transmission in your 150.
I just went through that and finally had to re use the 302 flywheel after I had it rebalanced to 28 oz.
I thought rla, Subford or ? said to use the flexplate from a late 80’s Crown Victoria? Did that not work for you?
You have be careful that the flywheel in the box is the correct one. As I posted Pioneer does not mark their flywheels so it is a guessing game if you get the right one.
The 351 28oz flywheel from the 250 will not work with the 4r70 if that is the transmission in your 150.
I just went through that and finally had to re use the 302 flywheel after I had it rebalanced to 28 oz. The offset of the e4od flywheel pushes the converter against the front pump and will destroy it. I tried several and could not get the correct clearance. There probably is a flywheel that will work but I finally gave up. I also had problems with Oreilly flywheels from Pioneer, I kept getting the wrong flywheel in in the correctly marked box.
Maybe Mark Kowalski knows which one will work.
my 150 had a 302, so it has a e4od.
not that it matters because I will be pulling the complete 351w drivetrain, including the 4x4 e4od that it will have with it, and putting it into the f150.
Big no to the distributor and timing change.
the stock distributor tolerances are a lot better than any aftermarket one. If you need another, get a used ford one.
the initial timing is set at ten degrees specifically because that’s where the computer thinks it is . It’s hard coded in the computer for 10 degrees, all timing tables are programmed for that.
okay I was to understand that one of the first things you do on these motors is adjust the timing to get more performance. I want planning on putting in a new computer, just adjusting it via timing light. Can you help me understand why this is a bad idea?
not that it matters because I will be pulling the complete 351w drivetrain, including the 4x4 e4od that it will have with it, and putting it into the f150.
Is the 150 a 2x4, or you making it a 4x4?
The trans are different, well just the tail shaft and housing, but the whole trans has to be ripped apart to swap them.
Is the 150 a 2x4, or you making it a 4x4?
The trans are different, well just the tail shaft and housing, but the whole trans has to be ripped apart to swap them.
it is a 2wd, converting to a 4wd. Tear down to frame restoration. It will get the entire drivetrain from the 94 f250 as well as axles, transfer case, the whole deal.
my 351 4x4 e40d drivetrain should perfectly replace my 302 2x4 e4od one….i don’t see why I’d be tearing anything apart (except to rebuild…which I am expecting to do)
Last edited by Brennon; Nov 28, 2024 at 12:29 PM.
Reason: Typo
The computer controls the ignition timing based on the assumption that the base timing is set at 10° BTDC with a +/-2° tolerance. You can play with it a bit but you may encounter pre-ignition. With a stock computer I would set it at 10° or 12° BTDC and leave it be.
okay I was to understand that one of the first things you do on these motors is adjust the timing to get more performance. I want planning on putting in a new computer, just adjusting it via timing light. Can you help me understand why this is a bad idea?
Your computer will always think base timing is set to 10, regardless if you set it to 8 or 12 or more/less by adjusting the distributor.
You have not told the computer base timing has changed.
If you do not set it to 10, you are globally changing timing every where always.
You will be more prone to detonation(pinging) at higher rpm where you think you have gained power, and will probably have less power at lower rpm when you mostly need it.
Unless you have a way of tuning for that change, don't change it.
It will get the entire drivetrain from the 94 f250 as well as axles, transfer case, the whole deal.
If'n it was me- and you're you- I'd find a solid front axle at that level of project. The $1k or so for the axle
and the extra work to mount it F350- style is going to give you a lot more truck for not a lot more effort/money.
I just don't find the TTB to be inspiring, and while a solid front axle is good 19th century technology,
it's... solid. The TTB is... floppy.
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