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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

460 Head Gaskets

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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 07:58 AM
  #31  
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Because you were having hot issues before I and had everything off the front of the motor I would have replaced the water pump.
You said the backing plate was pretty nasty and now it is running hot after all the work what if the impeller is not spinning or rusted away but the shaft spins?

When I install a stat I drill a 1/8 hole in the flat washer part to let air out of the system.
The little bit of water that passes thru will not hurt anything.
I also do not put the cap on the radiator till the stat opens a few times and all the hoses are hot.
As for the smoke if it dose not smell sweet like coolant I would not worry. There can be a lot of condensate in the system and till you get it good and hot for a while to dry it out it will keep smoking.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 08:03 AM
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I did replace the water pump. Would have replaced the backing plate but didn't want to wait until next week to get it running. Think I'll order a new plate just to have in case. Trying to get a deck project going and this is my lumber hauling truck.

Thanks for the info on the hoses, will give it a shot this morning.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 08:17 AM
  #33  
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Shouldn't there be a cap on the open vacuum ports when they are not being used ?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 08:20 AM
  #34  
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When the motor is cold open the radiator and check level and top off as needed.
You can also try and raise the front of the truck as high as you can to help the air get to the radiator and out.

Our trucks dont have this but some HVAC systems have a valve in the hose for heat temp. I turn the heat on to hot so this valve is open to push the air out.
Our trucks have water flowing thru the core all the time but just a habit I got into. With the heat on defrost, fan on high I can reach in the window and fell how hot the air blowing is.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 09:44 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
Shouldn't there be a cap on the open vacuum ports when they are not being used ?
Drivers side is capped, passenger side runs to a vacuum tree over near the vapor canister that I assume the distributor is plumbed into. I wouldn't know what a motor that has/does not have a properly functioning vacuum advance hooked up acts like.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 10:17 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Keepitrunning
Drivers side is capped, passenger side runs to a vacuum tree over near the vapor canister that I assume the distributor is plumbed into. I wouldn't know what a motor that has/does not have a properly functioning vacuum advance hooked up acts like.
If you can feel sucking when the engine is running, that port needs to be capped or connected to something.

A vacuum leak is not good. You will have bad throttle response.

The coolant should level out after a couple of heat cycles, such as driving, letting the truck cool overnight. Check level the next day, top off before starting the engine, watch the level in the overflow tank. As said, you need to get the air out of the system. Normally is pretty easy in these older vehicles. (as long as the T'stat was installed correctly)

The white exhaust you're seeing while the truck is running is condensation in the exhaust, that's normal when it is cold outside.

This is the F250 with a 460 I got from another thread, "Dave F" linked a while back.


Here's the thread that link came from, maybe it will help us with the vacuum routing, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-included.html
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 03:50 PM
  #37  
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The following morning I ran the truck with the cap off for long enough that the thermostat finally opened and gulped down a ton of coolant. Topped it up and it seems to be holding right where it should. I will investigate the vacuum leaks in the next couple of days.

Regarding the coolant contaminated oil. Obviously I changed the oil. I was planning on changing it again after a few hundred miles to eliminate any coolant that may still be in the oil system. Does the sound like the right amount of time? Should I run it shorter or longer?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 05:16 PM
  #38  
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On the oil a lot has to do with how much is still in there after the oil drain and filter change.
Was it water or anti freeze that made its way to the oil?
What does the oil look like now that you have it running?

If it was water I would not worry to much unless there was still a lot left in the pan and it shows it on the dip stick.
Anti freeze I may worry more as it is not good for bearings not that water is just not a bad.
If it is just a little bit left you can run (drive) the motor and it should heat (boil) the water out of the oil and be pulled into the intake through the PCV system and burned.
It would be no worst than condensate when the motor runs normally.

So only you can see what the oil looks like and if it looks milky then change it sooner than later.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 09:11 PM
  #39  
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Oil looks clean now, but I've only driven it once since the repairs. I'll keep an eye on it and change it if it starts to look like it's picking up any of that residual coolant.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 05:32 AM
  #40  
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The thing is to drive it long enough to get heat into the motor to boil out anything that may be in there either left over from the coolant or condensation.
Even with out the coolant issue you had just short start stop trips can and will build up condensate and you will see it under the oil fill cap and maybe the oil dip stick.
If you were to pull a valve cover you would see it there too.

Even driving it for an hour may not fix it if the PCV system is not working as it should.
I was driving my truck, 300 six, hour each way to work and had milk shake under the oil fill cap and dip stick.
Oil was clean so no worry there. I dont know what I changed maybe a new PC valve? but I no longer have the milk shake.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 14, 2024 | 08:35 AM
  #41  
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With it being cold outside, it may take a longer drive to get the oil hot enough. If it runs well, a good drive on the highway would be good.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 07:12 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Keepitrunning
Oil looks clean now, but I've only driven it once since the repairs. I'll keep an eye on it and change it if it starts to look like it's picking up any of that residual coolant.
Keepitrunning
Any updates?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 07:19 AM
  #43  
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Haven't run the truck since then, it's been crazy raining all weekend. Will use it today to pick up some lumber, so will report back.

One thing I did notice is that the OEM oil pressure gauge was reading higher than it normally does. It typically bounces between centered and just a bit high. Now it is a bit high to pretty high. I know it's not accurate, but wondered if maybe some of that oil/coolant mix was still in there and is harder to move than just oil.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 07:45 AM
  #44  
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A few things can make the oil psi read higher than it did before.
The big one is what weight oil did the truck have when it got water in it and dose it have now?
If it had 5w-30 and you now have 20w-50 that is a lot thicker oil.
Also you are out west from me and it has been pretty cold in the mornings here and a lot colder out your way.
That makes the oil thicker when you first start the motor once the motor is up to temp it may come down a little.

My 02 Dodge starts out in the middle when I first start the motor but once up to them drops to about 1/4 at idle.
Running down the high way it comes back up so I am happy and the truck has 293K miles, It all normal.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 10:22 AM
  #45  
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Yep, it has been pretty cold here the past few mornings. Running the same weight oil I always do.

Just hauled 1,000 pounds of lumber or so back from the lumber yard and the oil looks good. Definitely got up to temp before I even got there so it probably ran at 20 minutes or so at 195. I'll keep an eye on it and change it out early just to be safe.
 
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