2017 KR BCM replacement help
Story: bone stock truck. After a car wash tailgate started dropping and alarm started. Turn truck on and it goes away. None of the recalls have been done btw. Check those dreaded connections at the rear of the truck and clean with electrical spray and electric grease. all 9 of them. Didn’t solve the alarm or tailgate actuator from triggering. Things only got worse as door locks started actuating by themselves several times and lock my keys in the truck. Got back in by hitting the tailgate button to start the lock possession over again till it unlocked itself. Next, I undid the batteries and grounded the terminals to clear everything.
Somewhat better so I decided to drive the truck and see what else could go wrong. Engine died flashers came on and headlights will not turn off. Try starting the truck again. Came on for a few seconds and died again. Undid the batteries again grounding them out and mash down all of the fuses, circuit breaks and relays I could find from engine compartment and passenger foot well BCM. This time the truck stayed running to go back in the garage. After more testing of all of the switches for lights, tailgate, etc… from drive side under steering wheel panel, the switches are fine but I must have added a new problem as the truck will turn off if I turn the lights dial to off.
Finally, I decided the check the BCM and the connections. You can guess what I found. The only connectors that had corrosion were the top two. Didn’t look all that bad so I took the BCM out to inspect the board. After taking the board out of that stupid case, corrosion on pins, cleaned up with sand paper and isopropyl alcohol. One pin was broken from corrosion but it’s not used. Board looks good except for on spot at the far corner. Medium corrosion on one of the 4700 labeled brick looking thingies. Cleaned that all up, didn’t look burnt out and made sure the two boards were completely corrosion free and all of the electrical pathways were complete. Actually didn’t look as bad as I thought it would.
Moved on to the connectors, cleaned with spray and electrical grease the connectors without corrosion. The two connectors that had corrosion, although minor, removed the plastic retainers and depinned each one. So I just want to be clear how much of a PITA that was bending and twisting my body to do this. I cleaned each one to brand new and put the pins back where they go, carefully making sure each pin was seated properly. Checked continuity on wiring harness, all good.
suggestion: if your going to do this just cut the F’ing harness and splice them back together when you done. Or just burn the thing down and claim the insurance because I was F’ing close.
Reinstalled BCM and connectors, and hooked up batteries….no change.
Taking to a buddies house that has the proper scan tools this weekend to clear everything and try and get a better diagnoses. Maybe codes are saved in a saved state but I may since
fixed. Everything works, not worse, just not the way they are supposed to. Just to make sure, I cleaned every connector with spray and electric grease I could find. There’s quite a lot of them. Also identified where the water came from, area by the cowling, sealed it up.
This brings me back to acquiring a new, or new to me BCM, the HU5T-15604 JAP must be up there with unicorns. Was this replaced by a different code like the HU5Z-15696AU? It’s really confusing as there is not a lot of information out there and part sellers are more than willing to sell me one that might not work along with there no refund policies. I’m taking it to an independent shop next week to have a new BCM programmed to the truck. Just need to find one. Any help is much appreciated!
also, dealership service dept is as useless as the bitch who decided to put the sensitive electronics in a flood zone. Probably the same person who designed dodge transmissions.
Corrosion ate pin but pin is not used.
4700 brick thingy.













