Good day. I have a 1983 F150 300 c.i. I am planning on rebuilding the Carb. It appears to me to be aYFA with all the emissions that are hooked up to it, but there isn't an identification tag on it. From reading some earlier posts it appears the differance between a YFA and a YF is that the YFA was a later date carb, and the early model was non-emission. So is it feasible to remove/disconnect the emission portion from the YFA, it essentially converts it to a YF? Could you then run that carb without a problem. P,S, I am in a state that has eliminated emission testing. Thnak you.

 

IMO, if you need to have the truck tested for emissions...you are better off keeping it compliant. Have you checked NAPA for a rebuild kit ? You may be able to talk with them at your local NAPA and see what they have had good results with.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search...kit&referer=v2

 

I do not have to have it emission tested. All the parts stores in my area don't have a clue what is up from down.
If it isn't in the computer they cannot help. I wonder if anyone out there can answer if I unhook all the emissions will I be able to tune it to run? It seems to me the only difference between the 2 carbs is the YFA is emission friendly, and the YF is the early carb before emissions. Am I chasing after rainbows?

 

I'm surprised the experts have not found this thread yet, there are some guys on here that know these things inside and out.

If it were me, I'd make sure I had known good tune up parts installed and the truck ran well before attempting to make changes to the carb system. Then change one thing at a time. And test drive to verify it still runs well.

But, you should get help soon.

Thinking about, I wonder if you could find help at a local car show ? Walk around and see if anyone has an old Ford that may know people that know these older engines and such. Here in CT, to me, it's easy to find people that know these things well. My local auto parts stores have some good people that I have seen working there for many years. Just trying to give ideas where people can find help.

 

good info thanks for your help. Maybe I should wait for someone who has been through this before, Anyone out there??????

 

Here's some links that may help:

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/car...arburetor-kits

Some guys on here say ebay for a china knockoff carb.

check back to see what others say

 

Good stuff thanks for the assist. I love this site.

 

It's been said that converting a YFA to a more basic YA requires several modifications. You might be able to do it. Mike's Carburetor site might have guidance. I think that's why a lot of guys go for a YF or knockoff china carb.

 

So the carb you have now has the solenoid and wires off the valve cover side of the carb?
Got a picture of the carb and while at it of the dist. dose it have a vacuum hose or just wires to it?

If the carb has the wires to the solenoid it would be a feed back carb.
Another clue is no vacuum hose to the dist.
If that is the case the computer controls the fuel inside the carb and if any one part of the system is not working the computer makes the carb go rich and locks the timing.
This is not good for power or MPG.

Some say you can run the feed back carb with out the computer but with it running rich what have you gained?
If you dont have smog and the carb needs work I would say go for a non-feed back one like for a 81 300 motor as it dose not have feed back.
You can get a knock off off Ebay for around $100.

Now for that dist. if it has wires is also a feed back and has to be changed out for non-feed back one.
There are 2 ways of doing this:
1- find a non-feed back car or truck with a 300 in a junk yard and pull the dist., wire harness (it had plug so just un-plug), ICM (box on inner fender) and coil.
It will bolt / plug right in to your truck.
2- Get a HEI clone for a Ford 300 off Ebay and drop it in. You will need to do a little rewiring but we (DaveF) can walk you thru it if that is the way you go.

Once the non-feed back parts are installed and tuned you will ask why you did not do this sooner.
Dave ----

 

Thank you for all the amazing information. With all the options I am sure this will be the definitive solution. This site is a real benefit to all of us, and I thank you for your input.

 

FuzzFace2 I am leaning in the direction of finding a ICM and coil. As for a little rewiring you said you could walk me through this. How do we contact each other? Text,e-mail, phone call? Thanks in advance,

 

Click on his name in his last post above, the blue letters, from there you get a dropdown menu where you can send him a PM.

 

On the ICM and harness.
If you cant find them in the junk yard you can get a new ICM just spend a little more money for it as the cheap ones dont last long.
I got top of the line one from NAPA and been running it for years.
Same goes for the coil.

The harness Painless makes one, it is not cheap but dose plug in so cut & splice of wires.
Could make your own if you wanted to find the plugs, they say you can get them think from NAPA.

Dont over look any of the v8 cars / trucks for the parts as they will work.

As for the HEI dist. wiring it would be best to post for help here as others can help if I am not around.
If you do a search for Feed back swap or HEI install in here you can also read up on it a little
Dave ----

 

Does anyone have experience with using a non-emission carb,along with installing a Pertronix Ignitor along with a flamethrower coil? I need to know if I should reconnect the 2 wires that came of the older coil that was controlled by the ICM unit, or is the flamethrower coil too much for the ICM? Or can Ieave them off?

 

I am assuming this is a point distributor.
The Pertonix just replaces the points, everything else should stay stock, coil and spark plug gap should be stock. This doesn't make your ignition system HEI, it just eliminates points issues, upkeep.
Also don't leave the key ON, as the coil will get warm if the magnet is in the correct position to allow current flow. It can also cause the Pertonix to fail if it gets to hot.
To test this , use the flamethrower coil , which has a very low primary resistance, and leave the key ON. There's a reason it's called a flamethrower.

I guess I am a fan of stock coils, reliable and boring.
Good luck, Jim