I finally dug them out of the attic and installed them. Luckily I bought them years ago prior to Commiefornia banning this set (why I have no idea). I had to add an original Aeromotive regulator because I was duped years ago with a CHYNA knockoff and could not rebuild it.





Things I learned:

This Job sucks! Took me 20 hrs and some will laugh but there was alot to accomplish

My over the truck creeper was a god send

Adding a turbo blanket (which I owned for 3 years prior to install) really helps lower turbine temps. I can touch the turbine bare handed after a drive....no $h*t I was surprised. Also adds that extra dimension to the turbo to make an already fkd job that much worse

Wrapping the BD up pipes in titanium wrap was a challenge but came out very nice since the old heat shields are unusable

Having an Odawg's manifold (much taller) makes the turbo install stupidly tight

The extra oil hoses from my air to oil cooler are just enough to make the turbo install that much more difficult

My skin is getting thinner in my older age and damn cuts are all over 20 yrs ago when I did for a living I must have had steel skin

The BD pipe set is great but even leaving it loose made it impossible to install the turbo (with all the other non oem challenges listed) and it would not smoothly drop in the pedestal pins along with the oil tube sliding in for an hour.
I had to remove the already band clamped left pipe to allow the turbo bellows to "kind of fit" yet still required a BFS to pry it into place to install the clamp and draw it together. (BIGGEST PITA) and I've done this many many times with the stock piece.

A second set of hands is recommended, but if you're like me you don't have a set handy so you make do.

I think my crying is over

The OEM set had a pretty decent exhaust leak for years, from the RH up pipe gasket blowing out and sooting up my intake and firewall. The BD set is a lifetime set and will NEVER leak thanks to the design, and well worth the headache.


I wanted to redo my return lines and never like the zero access lines I made from the back of the heads. I bought a set from dfuser that bring everything up to the top and I used SS fittings for all line connections. I made new PTFE stainless lines incase I ever have leaks from the RR I have modified over the years I have full access and easy road repairs. Unfortunately I now have a premade -4 hose I didn't use but oh well. I thought about making them myself but decided against it. https://dfuser.com/products/dfuser-1...157bae72&_ss=r

All in all this job was a major PITA but it is done.

Not really a tutorial just a share.

Joe

 

Weird the California politburo would not allow the aftermarket up pipes…..they have the EGR flange so should be emissions compliant.

 

I agree, but this state is as lame as it gets.

 

CA probably wants it to go through an emissions testing protocol.

 

Did my up pipes a few months back and it was super fun, especially since I put the turbo in before tightening the bolts on the smaller delete pipe first lol 😆 🤪

 

If I did not have the egr cooler in place, and didn't have to mess with that connection, the up pipe/bellows assembly would have more movement if left loose.

I definitely don't want to do that job ever again

 

I kept the EGR cooler clamp loose enough so the pipe could rotate. The connections at each of the manifolds had one loose bolt. The pedal was loose, and the turbo was in place but unbolted. The exhaust was disconnected at the CAT, but help was up when necessary from below. I believe I used one of my small wood clamps with the jaws positioned to a push condition between the firewall and the collector to keep it there while messing with the clamp. From my minimal experience, the rotation of the pipes with the EGR cooler as the axis alters the fitment of the flange at the collector.

I might not have needed to keep the pedestal loose, as you can't fully tighten the bolt under the EGR cooler once everything is assembled.

 

Totally understood and I agree.

I even had the turbo down pipe removed for the added room while making my new RR lines.....and still the job was a chore.

I installed the EGR cooler clamp and left it loose/rotating because that thin metal gasket is easy to pinch or it fall out if left too loose.

I definitely wanted a positive connection and not find out later the gasket was compromised once it was mostly installed.....I may have cried.

 

I would have had to break something.......and cry, LOL.

I feel your pain. I once had a BD up-pipe party that lasted for a very long Saturday. Talk about frustrating, and that was without the EGR cooler. When I finally got it installed, the elbow was rubbing against the stud on the firewall that mounts the rigid heater core line. I also had a new fluttery sound and I think I had lost a few pounds of boost but I'd have to look that up to be sure. Ended up returning them for a full refund.

Hope they work out for you.

 

Yup, been more than a few times I've had to do something twice or even 3 times to get it right lol 😵‍💫🤣

 

Funny you mention that. I am looking for what appears to be a slight motor sound I hear in my cab at slight RPM and it was not there before. I suspected the hard line in the back and as far as I can see it is not touching when I looked. It's not bad but I am not living with that nuisance.

I will re-clock the read clamp on the RH side and get in there once I have a chance. I do love the design and the leak free pipes, but not sure these were properly thought out at production. There is a large casting nodule toward the top rear I noticed then wrapping the bellows.

Oh well I will figure it out, but one thing is certain these things are NOT coming out.

 

You've probably already seen this, but it's all right here, starting at post #41:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...feeding-3.html

 

I am banking on the casting rubbing the stud for the rigid coolant pipe.
It is intermittent and is pronounced when idling in gear. I definitely recognized the noise as unusual and it is probably the motor torqued over just enough to contact it.

This does not happen at idle in park, nor do I hear it under throttle going down the road.

A little odd but we shall see. I plan to reclock the band clamp on the left up pipe which is close to the firewall to see if that changes anything.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Wrapping the bellows created a bit of a hassle for me to see what exactly is contacting. Minimal access from the top, just enough room to view the rear. I was able to access the hard coolant pipe stud from the bottom and bend it upward just enough to relieve the contact. I am 99% certain that was it and the noise/vibration seems to have subsided....kind of. I still hear something once in a while but the radio has to be off, windows up and it is more of a slight dash noise.

My guess is the engine vibration is transferring to the firewall and then to the plastic in the dash.

At this point I am going to let it ride. Eventually the stud and/or the solid cast bellows will wear enough it will stop.

It is unlike me to do this, but there is no way in hell I am taking that fkr off again.

Idiotic design on BD's part IMO when ALL 6.0's have the hard piping in that area.

 

When I called BD they acted like I was crazy. Mine was the first complaint they'd ever had about the pipes...supposedly. And since then, I've seen lots of guys talk about how easy the install was and how much they liked them. All these years since, I've been thinking maybe it was me. So thanks for releasing me from my self doubt, or at least, from being alone in my frustration.