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My 1999 7.3 seems to take a little longer then it should before starting. Today it was 45 degrees out and I gave the truck one glow plug cycle and after a solid 4-5 seconds and about 10 revolutions it started up. What should the normal amount of cranks be before it starts? I read the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge and it has 50 psi idling. The ICP was running at 745 psi and then it would decrease the longer I ran it, the IPR during cranking went up to 45% then settled once the truck started at 20%. When I try to start it my scan tool reads that the ICP goes up to 50 then basically starts right up at 600-700 psi so I don't know if it's supposed to show a smooth build up of 100-200 and so on. The ICP itself had a little oil in it but it seems to be functioning correctly regardless I've got a new one coming. I let the truck sit for a good 10 minutes and then checked the oil reservoir and it was about an inch from the top. I recently put a new starter on that was much needed, new fuel filter as well. The truck has 172k on it so I guess it's possible that it has a leaky injector.
Does the battery voltage dive to 11.5v during key on waiting for glow plugs? Give em a touch longer to get hot say 20 seconds.
It sounds like a high pressure oil system issue tho. Once it lites IPR duty should be in the 10 to teens @ idle
Have you tried starting it with the ICP unplugged?
What oil type are you using? 15w45 can make cold starts grumpy if everything isnt into shape compared to the same in summer or even a 10w40 or 5w40 in winter
I have changed to 5w40 full synthetic, and the starts are much quicker than with T4 15w40 regular oil,
below 50* the T4 did not want to start easily, I had to plug in the block heater and let the glow plugs run for about 2 minutes, I watch the DVM in the power port, when it starts to recover from 11.3ish up about 2/10ths,
I hit the starter and it would go.
now, with 5w40 full synthetic, it will start in 20*F Wx w/o the block heater, but I do keep a Battery Tender on it, so the batteries start at about 13.0-13.3ish and drop to 11.3ish
once it starts, it idles normal at cold temps with 5w40 full synthetic...
so far, the ICP and IPR are performing as they should, I monitor them with the Edge CTS-3
Are you monitoring the glow plug solenoid to see that you are cycling the glow plugs? Have you ohm'd the glow plugs at the valve cover connector to see if you have all of the glow plugs working/connected?
My 1999 7.3 seems to take a little longer then it should before starting. Today it was 45 degrees out and I gave the truck one glow plug cycle and after a solid 4-5 seconds and about 10 revolutions it started up. What should the normal amount of cranks be before it starts? I read the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge and it has 50 psi idling. The ICP was running at 745 psi and then it would decrease the longer I ran it, the IPR during cranking went up to 45% then settled once the truck started at 20%. When I try to start it my scan tool reads that the ICP goes up to 50 then basically starts right up at 600-700 psi so I don't know if it's supposed to show a smooth build up of 100-200 and so on. The ICP itself had a little oil in it but it seems to be functioning correctly regardless I've got a new one coming. I let the truck sit for a good 10 minutes and then checked the oil reservoir and it was about an inch from the top. I recently put a new starter on that was much needed, new fuel filter as well. The truck has 172k on it so I guess it's possible that it has a leaky injector.
What are you calling a glow plug cycle? The duration the light stays on? The glow plugs remain on after the light goes out for up to 2 full minuets depending on ambient temps. Might try giving it another 10 seconds for the plugs to get up to temp and the heat to soak in. "Your fuel pressure is a little on the low side. It's in spec but about 10# lower than what I consider normal. Could be something could be nothing, but worth keeping in mind. The ICP behavior sounds off. If you're cranking then it should show the pressure build somewhat at least. If it's suddenly jumping from 50 to 600 then pops off then I'd guess there's your problem. The PCM won't fire any injectors until it sees 500 psi from the ICP.
What are you calling a glow plug cycle? The duration the light stays on? The glow plugs remain on after the light goes out for up to 2 full minuets depending on ambient temps. Might try giving it another 10 seconds for the plugs to get up to temp and the heat to soak in. "Your fuel pressure is a little on the low side. It's in spec but about 10# lower than what I consider normal. Could be something could be nothing, but worth keeping in mind. The ICP behavior sounds off. If you're cranking then it should show the pressure build somewhat at least. If it's suddenly jumping from 50 to 600 then pops off then I'd guess there's your problem. The PCM won't fire any injectors until it sees 500 psi from the ICP.
What he just said, ^^^^^^ in italics
is why I watch the Power Port voltage....
after the WTS light goes off, the glow plugs are still ON,
the PCM will turn them off when it thinks the temps are appropriate.
while the glow plugs are ON,
the battery volts will be in the area of 11.3ish
Using a Digital Volt Meter in the Power Port, will allow you to note when the PCM turns the glow plugs OFF.
the batteries start to recover and the voltage starts increasing from 11.3 to 11.5 real quick, then it starts getting higher.
I let it go 0.2 volts to 0.3 volts higher than the Lowest voltage noted...
then hit the starter.....
Thanks for the replies, I tested the glow plug relay and I would say it's working correctly with 11.7 to 12.1 volts it also clicked on and off. After that I checked the glow plugs in the plug at the valve covers first with a volt meter to find they all read open. Then checked again with a test light hooked to the positive to get the same result. With all 8 glow plugs dead, I'm amazed it starts as well as it does. I plan to take the valve covers off and investigate further before I order any parts. To answer some questions, I'm not certain the type of oil in it all I know is it is has enough to function. It was basically a parts truck and I've almost got it road ready, as of now I only move it around the yard here and there. I plan to put in Rotella T5 Synthetic 15-40 along with a filter shortly. I ran it once then unplugged the ICP the truck had a slight change of RPM then back to normal within a second or two. I considered one glow cycle to be turning the key to on and then waiting for the wait to start light to go out and start cranking. The ICP behavior when cranking made me suspicious as well but as I put before I've got a new one coming anyway.
Thanks for the replies, I tested the glow plug relay and I would say it's working correctly with 11.7 to 12.1 volts it also clicked on and off. After that I checked the glow plugs in the plug at the valve covers first with a volt meter to find they all read open. Then checked again with a test light hooked to the positive to get the same result.
This doesn't jive to me. What is your at rest battery voltage before ever even putting the key in? If no glow plugs are working then where's the draw on the batteries coming from? Without glow plugs just powering up the PCM and other modules shouldn't pull the batteries down more than a tenth or 2.
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