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The only "report" I've been able to find was one YouTube video. So, jury's still out on that claim, as far as I'm concerned. Honestly, there's zero chance of oil vapors going back into the intake if you're venting to atmosphere, anyway. All the bluster is unwarranted, unless you just need to reintroduce those vapors back into the turbo.
As far as SPE support goes, I just finished an email conversation with Paul at SPE, and with the quick response it was almost like having a chat session (I'm working on getting their hot side pipe kit). Very pleased with the customer service.
sorry to hear SPE still has not gotten their stuff together.
very bad communications
definitely no bi-directional communications.
I tried to buy some of their products and got tired go the generic group emails of "we are so great that we have been flooded with orders and we dont know when you will ever get your stuff) . then they try to loop you into the SHOP app to get order status that way they dont have to bother answering your emails and they dont.
the sooner you bail, the better off you will be.
Sent an email in asking about it, got a response within 30 minutes. They are waiting on the harness for the pressure switch before they ship the kits.
Unfortunately we have been waiting on harness plugs in order to complete these kits. We are hoping to receive them in the next week to week and a half.
There were some earlier kits where the hose blew off the T fitting. Its a failure when it leaves you stranded, and blowing off the T will leave you stranded.
I bought my kit when it first came out... with the Parker SNAPP filter, the Gen 2 kit. I do not believe there were any problems with this kit. This is what I currently have installed in my truck.
The Gen 2.1 kit...
And here's where we discuss the one line coming off when a user posted up... found the thread.
After this happened, I called S&S and spoke to one of the guys there, from above thread where I linked the specific user post about the hose coming off the tee... from July 2024.
"Called S&S and spoke with one of the guys there... Told him I originally bought my Gen 2 kit with the SNAPP filter when it first came out, procrastinating a bit and installed it last July and have at least 17k miles on it.
Then he said I should go to the Gen 2.1 kit with traditional filter head and the Donaldson but I told him I had white Marine versions of the SNAPP 2 micron filter and had purchased the Gen 2.1 kit when it first came out at half price for us Gen 2 guys.
But more importantly, he said it was a more recent and small batch of that hose assembly with the tee fitting... So before any rumors get started and bashing, I'm satisfied with that phone call..."
I havent seen that anyone has the SPE gen 2 yet, so maybe I will be the first to install one once the harness arrives. With the setup I have in my garage I can drop the end of the tent down on the bed and the front flap by the tool box and run the heater in there while working so it will be warm and not freeze my nutz off. I can also apply the PPF to the hood while at it.
Kit arrived yesterday. I tell you what, whoever does their machine work is a fricking PRO! The new fuel filter return is a solid block of aluminum machined to perfection. Can't even see tooling marks on it. It is made in such a way that it will be easy to see glitter in the fuel, which would be the first things coming out of the pump when it fails, well before the finer powder like particles come out. From the looks of it, the screen will block up, reducing pressure long before the grinding happens. An S&S filter can still be connected without modifications for those skeptical of the filter screen.
Far fewer parts to assemble too. It's one piece from the filter to the pump and a couple new brackets to secure lines, the most difficult will be securing the filter body bracket to the valve cover due to its location.
I havent seen that anyone has the SPE gen 2 yet, so maybe I will be the first to install one once the harness arrives. With the setup I have in my garage I can drop the end of the tent down on the bed and the front flap by the tool box and run the heater in there while working so it will be warm and not freeze my nutz off. I can also apply the PPF to the hood while at it.
Kit arrived yesterday. I tell you what, whoever does their machine work is a fricking PRO! The new fuel filter return is a solid block of aluminum machined to perfection. Can't even see tooling marks on it. It is made in such a way that it will be easy to see glitter in the fuel, which would be the first things coming out of the pump when it fails, well before the finer powder like particles come out.
>>>From the looks of it, the screen will block up, reducing pressure long before the grinding happens. An S&S filter can still be connected without modifications for those skeptical of the filter screen.<<<
Far fewer parts to assemble too. It's one piece from the filter to the pump and a couple new brackets to secure lines, the most difficult will be securing the filter body bracket to the valve cover due to its location.
I'm curious of your thought process behind what you just wrote there...
And, you're not skeptical of their return filter? Isn't the job of the return filter in a kit like this is to protect the return line back and still allow for flow back to the tank which would allow the fuel system to still function and possibly allow the truck to still drive to get it home or to a shop, and even get the truck off to the side of the road or off that hill?
Just trying to understand why reducing fuel pressure with the CP4 would be a good thing.
I'm curious of your thought process behind what you just wrote there...
And, you're not skeptical of their return filter? Isn't the job of the return filter in a kit like this is to protect the return line back and still allow for flow back to the tank which would allow the fuel system to still function and possibly allow the truck to still drive to get it home or to a shop, and even get the truck off to the side of the road or off that hill?
Just trying to understand why reducing fuel pressure with the CP4 would be a good thing.
The pressure switch is after the screen. If the screen blocks up from debris it will trigger the low fuel pressure warning. Nope, I'm wrong, its on the return line side pre-filter. Blocking the screen would increase the fuel pressure. Looks like a 10PSI switch. Its inline with the factory pressure switch and is basically a cut off. If you get a CEL with a pressure code, you know immediately where to look. Their thought process on this is that the screen will trap enough large debris to trigger the CEL before the pump reaches terminal velocity and start grinding itself into powder. The shaft will come apart in large pieces first, and enough of them should drop the pressure through the filter to trigger an alert before it gets to the grind up stage.
Here is how S&S sees it, you wont know the pump is failing until it fully fails, at which point you NEED that filter to trap everything. Because the only way to know IF the pump is on it's way out with the S&S is to remove the filter and cut it open. With the SPE, you can do a visual check every time you check the oil, or when changing the oil. You will see the glitter long before the powder. If it really bothers someone that they might not catch it in time, the S&S filter is very easy to attach, just plug and play with the factory fittings.
Now if SPE did NOT come out with this new kit, I would have gone with the S&S hands down, I did NOT like the SPE return filter at all. I PITA to install, and a PITA to pull the top to check the screen. On my 2019 I went ahead and used the S&S filter instead. It costs more but I felt it was the best of both worlds.
The pressure switch is after the screen. If the screen blocks up from debris it will trigger the low fuel pressure warning. Nope, I'm wrong, its on the return line side pre-filter. Blocking the screen would increase the fuel pressure. Looks like a 10PSI switch. Its inline with the factory pressure switch and is basically a cut off. If you get a CEL with a pressure code, you know immediately where to look. Their thought process on this is that the screen will trap enough large debris to trigger the CEL before the pump reaches terminal velocity and start grinding itself into powder. The shaft will come apart in large pieces first, and enough of them should drop the pressure through the filter to trigger an alert before it gets to the grind up stage.
Here is how S&S sees it, you wont know the pump is failing until it fully fails, at which point you NEED that filter to trap everything. Because the only way to know IF the pump is on it's way out with the S&S is to remove the filter and cut it open. With the SPE, you can do a visual check every time you check the oil, or when changing the oil. You will see the glitter long before the powder. If it really bothers someone that they might not catch it in time, the S&S filter is very easy to attach, just plug and play with the factory fittings.
Now if SPE did NOT come out with this new kit, I would have gone with the S&S hands down, I did NOT like the SPE return filter at all. I PITA to install, and a PITA to pull the top to check the screen. On my 2019 I went ahead and used the S&S filter instead. It costs more but I felt it was the best of both worlds.
Great response and explains it well... thank you...
How many layers of the 20 micron media do you think they have on that thing inside the housing?
Thanks for the pics.
Last edited by Overkill2; Nov 23, 2024 at 06:38 PM.
Reason: Add to post
I've never heard of a failure of the hose in an S&S kit, but I guess if keeps you awake at night there's this one. It was kind of hard to find on their website, but the kit is $449 and the return filter is sold separately for $199 and is listed as only being compatible with 2011-2016.
I can see it happening. When i had a coolant leak and poking around, i found my thermostat housing to be rubbing thru one of the hoses.
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