I believe that would be the "I" term. It was used for and ignition bypass on older vehicles. Would send 12v to the coil during cranking.

 

Are all the links in good condition. (they are your fuses)

 

I just took a brief look at it, and it is as you said. The terminal on the right has all of the links and the wire to the battery. The terminal on the left has only the wire to the starter. The top terminal "s" has the s wire. The bottom terminal is empty. They look to be in good shape, but I wasn't able to thoroughly check them.

 

Last night I checked and cleaned the wires at the starter solenoid. They all were in good shape. I could not find any loose grounds on the entire engine. I did find that the ignition coil seemed to be loose. (The inside molded plastic part would wobble on the outer part). Luckily I still have the old one, so I swapped them. I bought an ignition spark tester (inline between spark plug and wire) and the flashes looked to be the same with both coils. I also bought a remote starter yesterday. I have found that the remote starter will start my truck every time, even when the key won't. I'm not sure, but does the wire from the start switch go through the computer, relay, or anything else before reaching the starter solenoid. I'm thinking this (remote starter) works because it turns the engine without reenergizing the fuel pumps. Which is the same as when I unplug the inertia switch or fuel pump directly.

I also checked the engine running codes. I got 21 and 33. I believe the 21 means the engine wasn't warm enough.

Thanks,
Joel

 

Was the engine warm when you got that 21? If it's setting that with a warm engine, it will be dumping extra fuel in there, creating the gas smell you are getting.

The wire from the ignition switch should only run through the neutral switch. I'd have to comfirm it but, I don't think your pump should run in start. Might want to look at ignition switch.

 

I had run the engine a little, but it wasn't at normal operating temp. I'm thinking that is why the 21. I better run the test again today to make sure. Could be the temp sensor giving me problems. I was pretty sure the gas smell was due to the fuel pump flooding the cylinders while the truck attempted to start. But if the pump doesn't run until after the start my whole theory is no good.

Can anyone confirm whether the fuel pump(s) run while the key is in the start position?

 

Well, my book says...."with the Ignition switch in 'start' or 'run', the EEC Power Relay applies voltage to the circuit. When controlled by the ECA, and with the inertia switch closed, the fuel pump relay operates, applying power to the pump."

It shouldn't matter if the pump runs or not, now that I think of it . The fuel should not go into the motor unless the comp wants it there.( see where I'm going?) Erase your codes,get it good and hot, and then see if that code is still there. This sender being bad will cause your problem and everything starts to make sense. (unplugging the pump to start) I think you almost got it.

 

That does make sense. I'll try it again today.

 

I ran the engine running test again, and I got codes 12 and 33 this time. The engine was good and hot this time. I think it's time to put a for sale sign on it.

 

The 12 and 33 is nothing new. I have trouble getting consistent/good codes with engine running. STEPMAN which "sender" are you referring to in your last reply? If the truck starts great with the remote, shouldn't the problem be in the ignition switch in steering column/under dash or wiring associated with it? You have to have key on even to start with remote and PIP lets pcm determine crank because engine rpm is low. I would check connections at the switch or once you get in there just replace the thing. Getting there is the hard part. There was a recall on those things several years ago ('87-'91). I've seen diagrams and such posted here showing "actuators" and ramps, and such. I have to believe this problem (there may still be more for other codes) is electrical and can be a relay or sensor or wiring/connectors but I am accusing the ignition switch, without any tangible evidence though. They don't cost that much but can be a pain to install if you haven't before. Quite possible though and probably faster than what we've been doing. Only drawback is it could be waste of time if it is something else. I would have lost patience before now and would be ready to try (change) something. Don't get discouraged by the 12/33. During test your rpm was out of range and same EGR malfunction. I generally got those every time I tested, engine running.

 

I was thinking of the coolant sensor. I agree, I would replace the ignition switch. It's just an educated guess but , I too believe that is where your problem is. If it has been in there for many years, they get dirt in them and wear and the resistance across them goes up making for hard starts. They got recalled because they would heat up due to the resistance and start fires.

Not all that hard to get to if you can stand on your head.

 

The ignition switch could likely be the problem. It doesn't seem to operate very smooth anyway. Turning it counterclockwise to the ACC position is very difficult.

I'm going to "farmerize" it for now with a push button starter. If that works for the next week or so, I'll look into replaceing the ignition switch. In the mean time, I'm going to try to return that junk coil I bought at Autozone.

Thank you all for your help thus far. I'll keep you updated on the situation.

Joel

 

Good luck. The ignition switch I refer to is not actually where the key goes in. The wiring is farther down the column but the rod running between the 2 or actuator may be what is binding at the key. I doubt you have to change key switch. If it still binds up after installing the ignition switch get dry graphite lube from any hardware store and squirt into the key hole. It is a powder and won't accumulate more dirt as a petroleum product would.

 

Ok. I have never pulled a column apart, but assumed it was all together. I see what you mean now about "standing on your head". How much does the switch you're talking about cost?

 

You don't actually need to pull the column apart, just drop it down from the dash. You'll see the switch mounted to the topside. Watch the shift indicater cable, I think you may want to unhook that so it don't break. Can't remember what the switch cost. Think it's under $30.00.