Hey guys I recently purchased a early 2000s F350 7.3 4x4 AUTO

mileage on the dash reads 405xxx was told it was bought for a cab swap with a rebuilt transmission with paperwork to prove it, part of the main reason I bought it as I have 4 of these trucks now and only 1 good transmission. I have 2 99models and 2 02models those that know these trucks knows there’s several electrical differences in the trucks BCM fuse panel ect (Besides the point)

my issue is when I hook batteries up and turn the key it clicks in several areas but will NOT try to crank hence the NO CRANK NO START issue.

here’s what I have done, checked battery voltage cleaned battery terminals, cleaned the cables, checked fuses (have yet to tear into relays as several are clicking under the dash (coming out of the same box the turn signals click from) and something is clicking I’m assuming the starter relay on the passenger side under the hood) disconnected the starter relay mounted to the inside passenger fender under the hood and cleaned terminals there and reconnected and I’m getting ready to go under the truck and check the starter.

my knowledge on electrical is SUPER limited and I’m just trial and error right now I have a exact mate to this one with a good motor (I daily drove it for 60,000 miles parked for frame rotting in half, have all the spare parts I need)

I’ve looked and looked in these forums and no one that I’ve found has had issues that I can see, I’m sure I’m not a unicorn here but the hundreds of threads I’ve read through since this morning have been no help.

please ask your questions that can help you better diagnose the issue, I don’t have a scan tool to read codes nor can I borrow one, I don’t think the glow plug is even ticking off, it acts very much like bad battery/connection but I’ve worked on what I can think that COULD cause the issue like I’ve listed.

ANY advice/help is greatly appreciated!

Got power to solenoid, when turning key (USING A TEST LIGHT) turn key power goes out solenoid clicks

Power to starter connect test light to main power (big red) turn key clicks test light goes out when it clicks (touching little red wire)

 

Just pulled this link from the tech folder.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1594920520

 

disconnected the starter relay mounted to the inside passenger fender under the hood and cleaned terminals there and reconnected and I’m getting ready to go under the truck and check the starter.

The early 2000s F series still have the fender-mounted solenoid, which can 'click', but still have internal problems and not pass current. If you have this typical old style Ford solenoid, jump across the 2 big terminals with a vise-grip pliers, and the engine should crank. This is just one of many ways to figure out why the engine is not cranking.

 

tried that last night same thing as turning the key, I’ll disconnect the solenoid here, and pull the one from my truck

 

You jumped the relay and she didn't crank? The only way that can happen is no voltage to the relay or the starter is smoked.

 

correct jumping relay does nothing something clicks NO CLUNKING or even trying to start, it’s like when you turn key to start position (all lights and everything keeps power) just no progression to start

 

I would try turning the engine over with the crank pulley just to make sure it isn’t locked up before you do lots of other diagnostics.

 

motor spins when I put a socket on to ratchet, does not make any scraping or clunking sounds

 

That’s good. Now back to your regularly scheduled no crank investigation. (Sorry trying to reference old tv shows).

It could be the starter or some of the wiring feeding it, as you’re already aware. I’d probably go all rogue and connect a separate battery directly to the starter with jumper cables to see if it kicks in… but that could be a bit dangerous if you’re not careful.

You could also swap in a known good starter since you have 4 of these trucks.

Point being, next step for me would be to determine if it’s starter related or not. That takes the biggest hunk of mystery out of the equation.

 

UPDATE TRUCK IS RUNNING.
it was the starter I did swap it out but my other 3 starters were all 2 bolts instead of 3 bolts…. Long period of deliberation there, cussing fingers crushed ect, but I got it in, I’m going to be pulling the starter to cut a 18/-1/4 from the frame mounted motor carrier (very hard to get it in there and then to get the face of the starter to actually seat flush, before I could start the bolts)

also discovered the turbo pedestal is leaking rather profusely long cranks and I believe a bearing out in the used starter as it over spins after every start and kinda sounds like ****, ran it down the road lots of small issues to address but went through all gears and runs and drives up to 60mph(all I wanted it to do right now) no smoke really to speak off from motor motor actually sounds great, trans seams a little stiff, plus it’s a little stiff and aeration in the power steering and breaks so going to put in the garage and do all this will update in about a week or so when I’m finished and got it fully road ready.

thank you everyone for the input! Kinda glad it was a simple starter issue but I’ve rather just stepped into actually owning and stressing and them daily, last year.

 

I’m going to be pulling the starter to cut a 18/-1/4 from the frame mounted motor carrier

You're cutting what out of the frame?

I believe a bearing out in the used starter

The 2 and 3 bolt starters are interchangeable, so should be able to throw one of the others in if you want. The 2 bolt versions are actually easier to get in and out, but maybe a little less torque.

 

more like grinding and not the frame the motor mount for the frame right above the axles it has less than a 1/4 inch clearance (I’ve seen the smaller 2 bolt starters as well but I’ve have the bigger 2bolt starters here is 2 of them the one on the right is the bigger model I’m referring to which gets dents in the rear housing of the starter when everything is flexed (I don’t have it pictured as it’s only done it on mine that I can tell (which is in the 350 I’m motor swapping currently so I can update later what I’m referring to and what I end up doing)) the fix I’ve heard and read in several forms and heard from several 7.3 mechanics is to cut/grind a 1/8-1/4, from the motor basket.

 

Hmm, I've had both the 2 bolt Mitsubishi planetary reduction starter like the one you got there on the left, and a Denso style offset reduction like on the right and haven't noticed any rubbing from either. The Denso is a tighter fit but still clears. I wonder if worn out motor mounts could be a contributor. They are just a basic rubber and steel mount and these are some heavy *** engines.

 

Did you have your original starter tested? The build up of grease/rust/green corrosion may have hindered any good connection at the starter and when you changed them out, you had a better connection with the different starter. Had issues with mine not starting years ago and I knew the starter was good. Cleaned all around the contact areas and starts just fine. Get your first starter tested and there is a good bet that it is fine. You said that it spins and makes 'noises'. Clean it up, as the bendix gear is not retracting back into the starter. Also, the Solenoids are replaceable really easy, if that is an issue with the starter.

 

You should be able to get it in without grinding. I have a dB electrical high torque, a denso ripoff and it slides in with some coaxing.

Play around with your angles of attack as you guide it in. The end cap is domed and that dome is what catches. Once you get the angle right, you will have room past the lip as you can see on mine. Then you can start the bolts and enjoy some fast spinning action.

If it rubs, then I would question the mating surface or as said above, the motor is not sitting right due to mounts.