No crank no start
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2015
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No crank no start
1986 F150 EFI 302 AOD
No crank, no start. Good battery.
When I turn the key, it doesn't spring back. Does that indicate the problem being in the ignition cylinder or the ignition switch?
TIA
No crank, no start. Good battery.
When I turn the key, it doesn't spring back. Does that indicate the problem being in the ignition cylinder or the ignition switch?
TIA
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Do the lights in the dash come on and the gauges move when you turn the key? If they do, will it start if you jump the small terminal on the solenoid to the battery +? It sounds like your linkage piece broke in the column if you are getting power to the dash and the truck will run otherwise when you jump the solenoid with the key in run.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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When you turn the key, is there any electrical response with other circuits? Does the heater fan or radio come on, for example?
If no response from any circuit, in the switch monkey-motion, there is a piece called the actuator. This thread has a video with detsils:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-problem.html
Remove the steering column shroud to check. One screw underneath, IIRC. On top of the column you will see the rod extending down to operate the ignition switch. Make sure this rod moves back and forth while turning the key. Post #13 in this thread shows the switch and control rod:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21359790
If no response from any circuit, in the switch monkey-motion, there is a piece called the actuator. This thread has a video with detsils:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-problem.html
Remove the steering column shroud to check. One screw underneath, IIRC. On top of the column you will see the rod extending down to operate the ignition switch. Make sure this rod moves back and forth while turning the key. Post #13 in this thread shows the switch and control rod:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21359790
Last edited by kr98664; Dec 19, 2024 at 09:24 AM. Reason: fixed link
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2015
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Thanks for your response. Turning the key to the start position doesn't turn on the radio. The radio will turn on if the key is turned backwards from the "off" position.
The rod moves slightly to the left when the key is turned on, forwards when in the start position, back to the right (remains forward) in the run position, and back to where it started in the off position.
The rod moves slightly to the left when the key is turned on, forwards when in the start position, back to the right (remains forward) in the run position, and back to where it started in the off position.
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Cross-Country
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From: Angier, NC
Jim you thinking that part is broken in the column?
Would that part also make the shifter not work right as I dont think I have heard of that before?
Something is not right for sure
What gets me is he said shorting the solenoid did nothing if I read the post right?
Think someone said you can remove the column cover to reach the rod and move it with pliers to see if that will get dash lights and start it?
Dave -----
Would that part also make the shifter not work right as I dont think I have heard of that before?
Something is not right for sure
What gets me is he said shorting the solenoid did nothing if I read the post right?
Think someone said you can remove the column cover to reach the rod and move it with pliers to see if that will get dash lights and start it?
Dave -----
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,569
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From: Washington
Jim you thinking that part is broken in the column?
Would that part also make the shifter not work right as I dont think I have heard of that before?
Something is not right for sure
What gets me is he said shorting the solenoid did nothing if I read the post right?
Think someone said you can remove the column cover to reach the rod and move it with pliers to see if that will get dash lights and start it?
Dave -----
Would that part also make the shifter not work right as I dont think I have heard of that before?
Something is not right for sure
What gets me is he said shorting the solenoid did nothing if I read the post right?
Think someone said you can remove the column cover to reach the rod and move it with pliers to see if that will get dash lights and start it?
Dave -----
The failure usually starts gradually, with the rod not making all the way to the start position. In this case it seems like a clean break, compared to a slower bend, then fail.
The key ON is needed to make it start by jumping the starter solenoid.
It seems likely that the 2 problems are related, but I don't know for sure.
Jim
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Sounds like a ignition switch problem. All the broken actuators I have messed with would at least give you power to the truck in the run position. He is getting power in the acc position which is pulling on the actuator.
To the original thread starter with the problem; I think I would drop the column down and see what the ignition switch looks like and move the key around while watching it.
1. Pull the short cover off near the cluster around the column
2. Take the little string loose that goes to your PRND21 indicator
3. Go below the dash and take the u-bolt thing or whatever you have that holds the column to the bottom of the dash
The column should drop down and the steering wheel will rest on the seat. Then you can see the ignition switch on top of the column behind the dash area.
To the original thread starter with the problem; I think I would drop the column down and see what the ignition switch looks like and move the key around while watching it.
1. Pull the short cover off near the cluster around the column
2. Take the little string loose that goes to your PRND21 indicator
3. Go below the dash and take the u-bolt thing or whatever you have that holds the column to the bottom of the dash
The column should drop down and the steering wheel will rest on the seat. Then you can see the ignition switch on top of the column behind the dash area.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2015
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Please see the attached video. I dropped the steering column and put the key in and ran it thru all the positions.
What controls the key springing back? Is it something in the key cylinder or something in the ignition switch (or something else entirely)?
What causes the transmission shifter to lock in park when the ignition is turned off? (I didn't demonstrate it in the video, but it shifts freely with the key out of the ignition.)
Thanks for all of your responses.
What controls the key springing back? Is it something in the key cylinder or something in the ignition switch (or something else entirely)?
What causes the transmission shifter to lock in park when the ignition is turned off? (I didn't demonstrate it in the video, but it shifts freely with the key out of the ignition.)
Thanks for all of your responses.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,917
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From: Angier, NC
I am pretty sure the key springs back from start to run from the IGN switch.
With what has been poste by you and Dave about the dash lights.
A switch is cheap enough that I would replace it and when switch is removed turn the key and make sure the rod moves as it should.
Dave ----
With what has been poste by you and Dave about the dash lights.
A switch is cheap enough that I would replace it and when switch is removed turn the key and make sure the rod moves as it should.
Dave ----
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,319
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I'm not sure about where the spring (s) is either but I was gonna guess both the tumbler and the switch. Judging how well my key springs back post lubrication of the key tumbler with silicone. Now it could be just removing resistance by friction making less work for the ignition switch spring. If it's not springing back good try a good lubrication.