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Geeze, looking on car-part, it shows up to even 1997 being compatible with my Bullnose.
can this be real?
My 83 F150 is all over the road to the poing of scaring the sh$$ out of me. So far I have done,
tie rod ends, drag link, damper, shocks, tightened the screw on the steering box, got it aligned, and still it is like a wet noodle on the road to the point of being unsafe.
It's as if the steering has a mind of its own, shifting right-to-left and 4"of play at the wheel.
I'm running out of ideas.
I have nothing to loose besides time and some money, but as is, I can't drive it.
Anyway, the box must be bad. I have turned the box screw in probable 2 1/2 turns but it is still a nightmare. Ball joints are good.
So either try a junkyard box for between $35-$125, or I get a good rebuilt one.
I realize that our trucks are known for steering play, but I am running out of ideas here.
Check your frame where the steering box attaches. Sometimes cracks form and that can make an old steering box seem even older. If the frame is good get a new replacement for best results as opposed to rebuilt. The additional cost will likely be worth it if you plan on keeping it.
I will look at new, but I have heard good feedback on the redhead boxes.
I feel like I am shoveling money into a hole, and I already have a boat!
Seriously though, the other unrelated work I have done has all been worth it. I am very close to having a rock solid ride, until the next thing breaks.
No rust, 4 X 4 Flareside, 351W 4V. It's the truck I have wanted for a few years.
I think Dave went with the red top, or blue top? I was able to source a NOS Motorcraft for my replacement. You know to check all the front end parts. There can be some slop above the box in the column, but usually not 4" of play.
I asked some questions about your boat on the thread with the pics of your boat. If you have time to share that info.
Oh, sure
She is a 1955 Lonestar Starliner 21' aluminum cabin cruiser.
I found her at an abandoned boatyard, on the ground for 30 years, tracked down the owners, and made the deal.
This was a Lake Champlain boat so I want to name her Champ, (real original).
Weight 1000# bare, add for engine and gear. More than 2000 rivets, done with a man on each side.
Deep V front, goint to almost completely flat towards the back.
Like you I replaced everything except the kingpins & bushes & only got a very small improvement at each stage. I adjusted up the steering box, but I also swapped it temporarily with one from another truck I had that drove well.......with no difference.
Finally I discovered play in the lower bearing of the steering column; it hadn't collapsed but had excess clearance. Sometimes that bearing & it's housing break up altogether.
I replaced it with a proper sealed bearing & aluminum housing from LMC. https://www.lmctruck.com/steering/st...g-and-retainer
The OEM bearing was unsealed & housed in a weak plastic bush; it still turned but was rusty & shot, along with the play that had to be taken up before the input shaft turned.
Replacing it with the LMC parts reduced the steering wander by maybe 60%, & I'm confident the kingpin replacement will eliminate it.
Replacing it with the LMC parts reduced the steering wander by maybe 60%…
How much work was required to replace this bearing? Can it be done in situ or does the column need to come out?
Either way, can the old bearing be inspected without any major disassembly? Can you get a good visual on it with a mirror or similar? Or maybe have a helper turn the wheel while you watch for side movement at the rag joint?
I realize that our trucks are known for steering play, but I am running out of ideas here.
what would you do?
Thanks,
Joe
Our trucks drive perfectly fine and like any other vehicle have loose steering when something is wrong. The did not leave the factory with loose steering. So don't compromise and give up, it should drive like new if you figure out the problem. If you wanted to get a used steering box, I would get one from a little ranger pickup. They use the same steering box as these trucks, and they live a better life steering the little truck around compared to a large 4x4 truck.
I think Dave went with the red top, or blue top? I was able to source a NOS Motorcraft for my replacement. You know to check all the front end parts. There can be some slop above the box in the column, but usually not 4" of play.
I asked some questions about your boat on the thread with the pics of your boat. If you have time to share that info.
I went with a Blue Top remanf. box as they replace the bushings with bearings so it should not have any play for a vary long time.
The Blue was also a little cheaper than the Red, Service was great.
Been in the truck about 5 years with no complaints.
It will never be as tight as rack & pinion that my 02 Durango has.
Dave ----
Good point on using a box from a Ranger
I'm going to sniff if out at the junkyard this morning.
Yes, I know what this steering SHOULD feel like.
My 84 2wd F250 HD was dead on, like new. That one had only 60k on it.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I went with a Blue Top remanf. box as they replace the bushings with bearings so it should not have any play for a vary long time.
The Blue was also a little cheaper than the Red, Service was great.
Been in the truck about 5 years with no complaints.
It will never be as tight as rack & pinion that my 02 Durango has.
Dave ----
Unless I stumble across a junkyard gold box, I will go Blue Top. Thanks.
My thought on JY box is it is most likely got play, maybe not as bad as yours but .........
Even the rebuilds you get from the parts store you may need to get 2 or 3 before you get one that you can use because of the play.
Because I was rebuilding my truck as a driver and hearing about the store remanf. I went Blue but Red is just as good and would have gone with it too.
I also did not want to replace the box a bunch of times before I got a good one.
Dave ----
