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I dont understand what you mean by timer. If you just plug it in its going to work
timer is used to turn it off or to power it for less time overall
Oh yeah, the timer I'm talking about plugs into the outlet, and you can set when it turns on, and off. That way it doesn't have to run all night, or I don't have to go manually turn it on, all is have to do is leave it plugged in.
Yeah I'm 17, so I can't have a beater car, (which is a great idea) however I'm considering getting a cheap motorcycle for summer months for this very reason, and to save a ton of gas. I would like to keep this truck around as long as I can.
I spent 5-6 hours flushing the damn thing the cooling system was very neglected, so it was time well spent. I'm now wondering if I have an air bubble trapped in the heater core. If that isn't the case, I'll just replace it.
I never let it warm up, I thought that was bad for the engine, but if it helps it, I will start doing that. The coolant heater, plugged into a timer seems like a really good idea overall.
I mentioned i believe the heater core is partially blocked, one of the coolant lines isn't very hot, and the heat gets lukewarm at best.
I will also add a picture of my oil cap when I get the chance.
So far everything looks good, but I want to take care of this thing.
FWIW, I don't let any vehicle warm up at idle. I start it up, let the rpm settle (normally 5 seconds) then drive like a blind grandpa until it's warm. It's definitely more likely to wear prematurely during idle than under a slight load.
5 seconds for the idle to settle? Mine drops after like 20 seconds.
I could probably get away with a 1000w heater, 1500w would be fast tho...
I just meant the initial fire-up jump in rpm, not the typical high idle. I'd say it's 12-1300 rpm that settles 1,000ish, and I roll out on the 1,000ish. I've driven millions of miles this way, and as mentioned before, I'm certainly not in the coldest regions of the world. I honestly don't know what I'd practice in long winters of sub zero.....but it would definitely involve heaters.
I just meant the initial fire-up jump in rpm, not the typical high idle. I'd say it's 12-1300 rpm that settles 1,000ish, and I roll out on the 1,000ish. I've driven millions of miles this way, and as mentioned before, I'm certainly not in the coldest regions of the world. I honestly don't know what I'd practice in long winters of sub zero.....but it would definitely involve heaters.
Sounds like similar temps to us, we're a bit colder than that, but not constant subs.
I like the idea of a heater to help extend engine life, plus it'll give me the option of using the truck somewhere much colder. (And faster cab heat )
Update: ordered 1000w Kat's heater from AutoZone. Thanks for the link.
I never let it warm up, I thought that was bad for the engine, but if it helps it, I will start doing that. The coolant heater, plugged into a timer seems like a really good idea overall.
I mentioned i believe the heater core is partially blocked, one of the coolant lines isn't very hot, and the heat gets lukewarm at best.
I will also add a picture of my oil cap when I get the chance.
So far everything looks good, but I want to take care of this thing.
Really?!?!
Looks like water in your oil, the white on the oil cap.
Looks like oil in your coolant.
To me, that does not look good.
Really?!?!
Looks like water in your oil, the white on the oil cap.
Looks like oil in your coolant.
To me, that does not look good.
I Expected some build up, but there isn't very much. My coolant is not at all cloudy, and the oil is clean and at a good level. I don't want it to get any worse.
Wait till you see what came out of my heater core when I flushed it.
This summer, I spent a whole lot of time flushing my very neglected cooling system, with cleaners, both directions, etc. it was horrible, and recently has been much better overall. Minus the fact, as of not long ago, I have no heat. Well, here's my theory:
Flushing all the chunks and garbage out is great, but the heater core acted like a filter. What is in these pictures is not coolant, it is some of what came out of the core when I flushed it with a hose. Yes it was gritty and chunks at times.
For reference, this was my coolant before I flushed it: I opened it too hot.
Yes. I have heat now plus I just ran this thing hard and hot to burn off any moisture.
My '95's coolant was about that bad as well...When I bought it in 2018 at 165k miles, it also still had the original radiator hoses, original heater hoses, and original accessory belts(!). Since the motor was out for a refresh last year, I gave it all new belts, radiator hoses, heater core, blower fan (mine was bad and constantly blowing the resistor) and radiator in addition to new silicone heater hoses..
As for the timer yes they do make ones you can plug into the wall for a lamp or x-mas lights but I dont think it will handle the heater power so look at the watts it can handle.
Now for more money, yea nothing is cheap now days, they make full system light timers for like parking garages or outside lighting.
You can get them in the big box hardware stores. They come in different types of time settings. Some are for 24 hr, others weekly and IIRC some adjust for sun set / rise time change over the month.
They have pegs / levers you screw onto a wheel to turn on / off the power and with in the 24 hr you can turn on and off more than 1 time.
Look up Tork Timer. They normally get hard wired into the system but I dont see why you cant wire in a male / female pig tail so you can plug it into the wall and the heater into it with a long cord.
I can see a weekly timer working as you can then set time for different days at different times like your 4.45 days.
Dave ----
Good point.
His 1000W heater would be using apprx 8.34 amps
If timer is rated for 10A or more and only powering that heater it would be fine for that.
I think most of the generic type timers are rated for 15A or more
Use an appropriate sized extension cord and keep timer out of direct moisture contact
Make sure branch circuit inside the structure has sufficient capacity
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