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Started a month ago with a no start issue after sitting for a couple months, ran fine when parked. I put new batteries in it and put a new IPR and plug in it since I new the plug was going bad and AE showed high cycle %, I don't remember what the PSI was. Crank and start and within a minute or so it would miss and shut off. This pattern got shorter until it wouldn't start with a smell of burnt electrical. My son replaced the CPS with a auto parts brand (against my request). Replaced the GP relay and all of the UVCH finding all glow plug contacts (outside connecters on plugs) melted and melting into the injector connectors. Replaced all of the injector harness plugs that plug into the gaskets. Fired right up on the first crank and ran very smooth. Let it idle for a extended amount of time to work out any air in the fuel system from removing the filter bowel when I changed the IPR. Pulled it out and gave it some RPM up to 1000 and it starts to miss like before but not as dramatic. Switched the CPS back to the original (purple) and it ran great no miss up to 2000. I figured it was good to go. Took it for a drive and 2 minutes into it it starts to miss like before and become obvously worse. Limped it home at about 20 with no power.
I hook it up to AE and it is showing the above at idle. The last two at 14.8 is with the ICP sensor DC'ed. HPOP reservoir is full, fuel bowl is full a little over 3/4 with the filter out. Mess around with a a little more with AE trying to get a better understanding of PSI and % and it starts to miss to the point it will not stay running. I wouldn't say the engine is warmed up but its not cold by now. Now I can get it to fire but it won't stay running for more than a second or two and dies. Fires up again immediately with a lengthier crank and dies. I recorded a bunch of cycles on AE and this is was I see;
The first crank/fire cycle peak is 50% cycle and 2075psi, the second is 45% and 1189psi then it dies to give you a reference of percentages and pressures since the graph is small.
I was going down the road of a failing HPOP due to the high percentages and symptoms coming on when getting warmer but with the associated high pressures, I'm confused. I checked the tin nut on the IPR and its tight. The UHCH, exterior plugs, IPR and plug are all Alliance brand.
I wasn't able to check the fuel pressure because I was by myself but that's the next thing. I did check it at the initial onset and it was showing 40psi on cranking.
Your input is much appreciated.
Last edited by TheRealMikeHoncho; Oct 27, 2024 at 01:32 PM.
Hooked up a pressure gauge to the shrader valve and showing 40-55 psi on crank, it firing up and to where is dies. I did not experience the normal running until it got warm situation I experienced yesterday. It fired right up and within 30-40 seconds it started a slight miss then degraded to it just firing off when cranking getting about 5 second of run then dying as if the key is turned off.
Pulled the fuel bowl again to go over the IPR harness and didn't find anything. Decided to pull the new IPR (Alliant) to check it out. I'm wondering if it is bad. I might put the old one back in and try it out. I'm running out of ideas.
switched back to the original IPR with no change and switched to the new (off brand) CPS and it ran good in park. Didn't have time to drive it. Bought a Motorcraft CPS and took it for a drive. Ran great until it warmed up then severe misses on light acceleration. It will sit and idle smoothly with no issues. At 600rpm - 580 psi 10.4%, oil temp 170. At 1650 rpm - 1050psi, 18.75%, oil temp 173. 2660rpm, 2400psi, 35%. WOT at 3500rpm pressure starts at 2400 and 30% then drops off to 1400psi at 24%. I find that a little weird. Tomorrow I'm going to check the main harness for shorts.
Can try cold water on IPR and see if better.
Pull VC and check for oil seeping around injector base
Fuel filter dark?
Could be IPR or HPOP too, can do a dead head test.
Oil level ok? Can run weird with low oil, what happens if you raise the rear end up 2 feet? Does it run better or worse? If better then maybe a cracked oil pipe of blown gasket.
I would think the old version should be able to pull codes. If you have the Ford bundle. IDK
I don't think it issue is with the old version, it has to do with the new computer. I bought the program and reader at least 10 years ago and the website says it is not compatible with Windows 10. I tried it anyways and it will read the sensors then it won't. It keeps saying it cant read the enhanced module. Sometimes when i do a buzz test or KOEO it will say its doing the test and it passes when I know its not because I'm not hearing any of the solenoids or injectors firing.
Can try cold water on IPR and see if better.
Pull VC and check for oil seeping around injector base
Fuel filter dark?
Could be IPR or HPOP too, can do a dead head test.
Oil level ok? Can run weird with low oil, what happens if you raise the rear end up 2 feet? Does it run better or worse? If better then maybe a cracked oil pipe of blown gasket.
Does it start easy or take a while?
-Fuel filter new. The old one was clean and the bowl is clean.
-Oil level is right were it should be but the oil is old. I'm going to change it and replace the oil in the reservoir and see if that changes anything as I know its old and its been topped off with different viscosities.
-I pulled the engine about 15 years ago due to a caved in oil pan and obvious oil pick up issues. I found a cracked pick up tube and welded it up. I guess its possible but it get oil pressure right away on cranking, unlike before and the reservoir is always full.
Today I'm going to try cooling down the IPR when it starts acting up and if that doesn't do anything then its time to pull the VC and check for oil leakage but (I believe) the IPR data doesn't show a high pressure oil leak. After than it will be deadheading the pump.
Replaced oil. Runs even smoother when cold. Once the oil temperature got to about 90 it started acting up and doing the exact same thing as before. Sprayed the IPR with Ice water with no effect. I was able to do a buzz test with AE once it connected and it passed the test but kicked back a P1298 - IDM Drive Module Failure. I'm wondering the the melted UVCH effected the IDM.. I've found a couple process on Youtube and other places about how to run continuity tests with the harness. I'm going to do that tomorrow. I replaced the IDM about 15 years ago. I can't remember the symptoms and if I bought a new one or reman but I do remember water being in the old one. This one sounds dry.
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