When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1973 F110 with a 302 - I've machine and rebuilt, currently building a 331 stroker out of the 302 block. All that is good. Quick question: For those that use RTV on china rails, and that is what I plan to do, not gaskets, how long do you wait on the RTV till you place your intake. My currently thought, after a bunch of reading is put the bead on, let it set up - skin over for roughly 30 minutes and set the intake. of course engine master and all the dyno mules show you putting on the bead and then dropping the intake immediately...I think that is much too quick. I'll have 4 long studs of 5/16 bolts in the corners for guides so once dropped should be in place and not much movement needed.
I used Edelbrocks instruction, never have left it to set up.
Eliminate the end seals.
Instead, use RTV silicone sealers designed for use with O2 sensors. Apply a bead of sealant approximately 1/4” high across the front and rear block end seal surfaces, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners.
This method eliminates end seal slippage and deterioration
Since I have the 4 corner guide studs, even if its fresh and not starting to dry just a bit - it should drop very close to not moving again spot. Piecing together the reasoning I've read, the letting it set up usually has a factor of people sort of moving the intake around to get the right positioning/alignment and so the RTV has a bit of stiffness to it rather than just peanut butter running out all over.
On a '85 Ranger 2.8 V6, I used Perma-Tex Ultra Blue in place of the cork gaskets for the intake manifold. I did not wait to put the intake in-place. Sealed perfectly and Ultra Blue is thick enough not to 'run'.
The rubber end seals are relatively new. They've been cork for ever, and no matter what the application, cork gaskets will eventually dry out, shrink, and stop sealing. The factory cork valve cover gaskets that came with my 87 Mustang actually walked away from their gaps after a few years. They were hanging on by the little bolt spacers that prevent them from getting crushed.
The end seals that used to be cork also had installation difficulties, as they required gluing down first, or they get squished out as you tighten the manifold down. This also happens with the rubber end gaskets. So if you're already having to apply a goop to hold the end gaskets, it's just easier to use RTV to begin with.
That might explain why I have not had a leak. I am building a 408 and I was able to find rubber ones. That is what I plan on using or make some type of fiberglass/carbon fiber spacer [and sealer].
I guess it does not matter what it looks like, if it works.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
