I recently replaced my flywheel and clutch and when I did I just put the setup that was there back exactly like it was. So I am pretty sure my clutch is adjusted properly however the last couple of inches of travel when letting the pedal up It feels like it almost has some resistance but then releases. I hope that makes sense. So I wanted to try and find out what was causing the issue and I remembered that whenever I replaced the clutch that there are not one but two clutch return springs. They were both attached to the throw out bearing fork and then both went somewhere on the frame in different spots. I'm not sure why the prior owner had two springs on the clutch pedal but I'm pretty sure that's not how it's supposed to be.

So the purpose of this post is to see if anybody is able to explain exactly where the clutch return spring connects opposite of the throw out bearing fork. Also when releasing the clutch there's a definite sound of a spring releasing due to what I assume is because the spring is not in the right place and is rubbing somewhere.

Now that I look at it the springs are touching so that very may well be the source of the sound. It reminds me of the sound a spring makes when opening a folding attic staircase. 😂

If anybody has any pictures of where the spring is supposed to connect that would be great. I don't want to undo what I have now until I know where it goes. Also if anyone knows the exact length of the correct spring that would be helpful as well. Thanks
Clutch return springs from underneath

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Clutch return springs connection point from underneath


Clutch return springs connection point from up top.

 

 

The silver spring looks too light of a spring for the clutch return. The heavier, older spring on the right looks like the right size coils, but it's obviously too long. It's possible it stretched over time and the other spring was added to compensate for the loss of tension, after they tried moving it to the other hole on the cross member. It's also possible the heavier spring is the wrong one from some other application and since it was too long, they moved where it was connected on the cross member and when that wasn't enough tension the lighter spring was added.


I think the bigger hole is the correct location

 

My 1975 F250 4x4 attaches like this. Part #7542

 

The 4wd trucks have the L-bracket that bolts to the frame. It's called out that way in the service manual. It appears the 2wd trucks used a hole in the front cross-member instead.

 

 

If mine, I'd add a hole on the frame bracket, move the spring over ... and the spring would stop rubbing.

I very likely would even trim the bracket back too, and smooth my cut.

 

Yes not all things come perfect in the Ford truck world....it is on my list to stop the spring from rubbing.

 

I would remove the newer looking spring and see if the old one alone is sufficient. If not, try the newer one by itself. If neither is sufficient alone, try your local hardware store or parts store for a replacement. You might have to approximate on the tension and will most likely have to cut and bend for the correct length.

 

It would be nice if I knew the correct tension but I should be able to figure it out. I just don't want to tear up the new clutch 😆

 

Correct tension is what you're comfortable with in your driving conditions. Some prefer a firm pedal feel, others are on the opposite end and everything else in between. The auto parts or hardware store in your area will have universal springs that you will need to bend one or both ends. Install the new spring with a little bit of tension and see if you like it. Adjust as needed.

 

Oh my! I see now that I had saved & modded your picture, I was thinking was OP's (75over77 F100) picture.

Now I see that he has two springs side by side from the same hole. That spring, or in his case "those springs" ... only keep tension on the clutch push rod as the clutch is released so the rod's tip stays in the dimple in the clutch throw out bearing fork ... the pressure plate is what clamps the clutch disc and is about 99% of the pedal return pressure. Looks like somebody added the second spring (the silver one). It's not hurting anything, maybe even helps pull the throw-out bearing back off the clutch pressure plate fingers. I bet it's from a TSC or Rural King.

 

What ever it is worth, I always use a spring strong enough to keep the fork off the TO bearing. Thats all I can figure the spring is doing.
I do not want my TO bearing touching the PP and constantly spinning.

 

So I was able to mess around with this yesterday. I took both springs off to feel the pedal travel. So the "bump" I was feeling was just the pressure of the assisting spring located on top of the pedal assembly. I then put each return spring on individually and neither by themselves were strong enough to pull the pedal all the way back past the point where the assist spring pressure starts. I am pretty sure that the larger older spring may the original but it is definitely seen better days. I will find one similar that should have enough "oomph" when I start major restoration.

So I put the larger spring back in the hole I am assuming it was supposed to go into and found a spot for the newer spring to connect that keeps the two springs from touching each other or the clutch linkage assembly. The pedal travel seems to be somewhat smoother but it may just be my imagination. LOL.

I also in my original post I said that the springs sounded like the sound of an attic door opening. I now realize that sound was not when pushing the clutch pedal in but is with opening the hood... LOL. I am not sure why I mixed the two things up.

I will try to toss a picture of the new placement of the springs when I get a chance to take one in case anyone else has the same issue.

As always, thanks for all the input!