I bought my truck 3 months ago with 166000 miles on it. I have changed all the fluids but the coolant. So this weekend I plan oin finally changing it. I need to know everything I need to about changing it. For instance, how to drain, what to refill it with, how much additive, and where to get the additive and coolant.

One more thing. Is there anyway I can find out if the truck has had the additive added in the past. If the owner before me took it to a shop to get it changed would the mechanics add the additive?

95 F350 PSD CC LB 4x4

 

One more thing. Is there anyway I can find out if the truck has had the additive added in the past. If the owner before me took it to a shop to get it changed would the mechanics add the additive?


Unfortunately, no.

Unless the were diesel mechanics more then likey they did not add the additive.

 

Most radiators have a valve at the bottom (probably on the pass side) that you open to drain. When I change my coolant I usually drain and fill with water and then run the engine with the heater on full blast. Let it run for about 10 minutes and drain and fill again. I keep doing this until the water that comes out is clear and then I drain and fill with 50/50 fluid/water mix. Add your additive as well.

 

A couple of the local garages told me that the additive is a scam, the antifreeze you buy now-a-dayz has everything you need in it! If you buy a used truck change your antifreeze and add the additive right away because you never know who did the last service. I did mine my self, nothing to it.

 

Antifreeze doesn't have anti-cavitation additives, you have to add that yourself. $8 a bottle is cheap insurance. I'll continue using the additive in my PSD.

 

fordforever: I just flushed my system, and can give the processes I did. There is a radiator drain petcock on the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. That drains the radiator. There are also 2 block drain plugs-one just behind the oil filter housing at a 45* angle, and the other at the same angle just above the starter on the passenger side. I was able to get the driver's side plug out, but was unable to do the passenger side. If you go after the passenger side plug, REMEMBER to disconnect both batteries. I drained the system as best I could then refilled with tap water. Sealed the system up, ran around for approx. 5 miles, and then came back and drained it out. I did that 2 times. During one of those drains, I added a t-fitting in the heater hose just to the passenger side of the fuel filter and housing cover (that's the hose that goes from the top of the water pump over into the firewall). That t-fitting I bought at an auto parts store, and came as part of the Prestone Flush-N-Fill kit. I clamped it on using the 2 hose clamps provided in the kit. After the 2 flushes and refills, I then attached my garden hose to that t, opened the radiator petcock and driver's side drain plug, and let the hose run. I also started the engine and let it run for a few minutes. After all that, I ran the hose into the degas bottle to try and get some of the dark colored crap stuck in there and then let it drain. After that, I installed a 203* thermostat and aluminum t-stat housing as well as a coolant filter system I purchased from Bob Riley. I installed the filter just under the driver's side seat with valves. I installed it because the PSD block has been known to have SCA's, rust, sand from the forge process, etc. floating around. I installed valves at the in and out ports of the filter housing because the filter unit is below the coolant system, and if you take the filter off without those, the coolant will start to pour out with no way to stop it. If you want pictures I can send you some, but would need your e-mail. A good install page on a variety of topics is at FMTRVT's webpage. I can't seem to install the link here, but if you go to ford-trucks.com and search for his name and then go into his profile, you can find it there.

I then added 3.5 gals. "WeatherPro" I got from a local International dealer. That WeatherPro is the same as the low silicate "Fleetrite" coolant mine needs. After those 3.5 gals., I added 3 8 oz. bottles of DCA4 I bought from the same Int'l dealer, and then completed it by added the necessary amount of DISTILLED water. Distilled because it has much less mineral content. I bought my SCA test strips from Dieselmann, and came in 4 to a package. There is a chart on the back that shows how to read them. I've read that the normal SCA range is 1.3-2.2. I wouldn't bother trying to find out if any additive was put in there since you're going to change the system out anyway. I check the system every couple of days and add distilled water as needed since there will most likely be air trapped in the system until it works it's way out. SCA's need to be checked (I think) around 2 weeks after this process to check the level.

The owner's manual I think says it's an 8 gal. system, but you will be lucky to get 6-7 since there will be around 1 gal. lying resident in the block. After you add the coolant and SCA's, you will only end up putting around 2 gals. of distilled water. That's because of the water/fluids that will never come out of the bottom of the block. Also, after the drains and refills, be careful because the water will be VERY hot. When you drive around, remember to turn the heater up to full temp and full fan. Good luck !

 

gchaves I wasn't saying don't use the additive, that would be crazy. Just trying to worn people that their local shops may not be using it which would cost them down the road.

 

Lucca,

Nice descriptive post. I would be interested in seeing some of your pictures, especially your filter setup. Also, can you send me the address of Mr. Riley and information on his prices?

The only thing I would want to add to your post, is I personally might want to use a flushing solution with the first clear water flush.

A tip: ....................

Also, since you have installed the "T", when filling, all you have to do is leave the cap off and fill until the air is all gone, and liquid starts to flow out. Since this is a high spot in the cooling system, air will rise to the top, and this will allow most of the air in the block and system to escape. The same thing applies even if you don't have the "T" installed. Just remove a heater hose at a high point, and leave it disconnected while filling, until liquid flows out. Just REMEMBER to reattach it and tighten it.

 

Oops, my mistake. I mis-read your post. Sorry about that. You make a good point, many people don't know about the cavitation issue with diesels. Isn't there some kind of test strips that'll tell if the additive is present? Would that be less expensive than changing antifreeze?

 

Thanks TJC, and that is a very good tip about the air. And actually, I forgot to mention that during this process I did add some cleaner I bought from the same Int'l dealer where I got the Coolant and DCA4. I think I added it during the second tap water flush. Maybe next time I will add a distilled water flush and do it then. It's a long process, and I was getting tired, so I didn't do an extra distilled water flush before completing the fill-up. I will send you some pictures when I get home by going into your profile. It said I could send you an e-mail (?), so hopefully I will be able to attach pictures.

 

Hi fellas, I am curious now about the additive. I see you guys talking about DCA4 and my owners manual says to use an additive called FW-15. I have read other posts that say to use FW-16. What is the difference between FW-15, FW-16 and DCA4? Sorry if this is a silly question.

 

thumper: Here is a quote from someone I respect about this topic:

What Gooch said. Your package probably says VC8 instead of FW-16. It's the same thing. It's really Fleetguard DCA4 in a Ford package, so if you ever need any and the Ford folks are out, you can buy DCA4 at almost any big-truck dealer that sells trucks with Cummins or International engines.

[DCA is short for "diesel coolant additive". The 4 is the specific chemical formula used by Cummins, International, and Ford.]

Yes, you need 3 pints on a fresh flush and fill. That will get your supplemental coolant additive (SCA) concentration up to a little above 2.0 units per gallon. If you put in 4 pints as Ford suggests, you'll have almost 3.0. You want it as close to 1.3 as you can get it with no danger of going below 1.3. Because the higher above 1.3 you get it, the harder it is on the water pump. At 2.0 or so it's good for at least one oil-change interval, so if you check it at every oil change you'll never need more than 2.0. And your water pump will last longer. My water pump now has over 101,000 miles with no problems, and I try to maintain my SCA concentration between 1.3 and 2.0.

And here is a quote about the FW-15/16 issue:

Yep. Sounds like Motorcraft's new VC8. VC8 is just their part number...which replaces part number FW-16...which replaced part number FW-15. All meet the ESN-M99B169-A spec. But I don't think you'll find your 2000 PSD listing that spec or any particular SCA spec, only their Motorcraft part number.

My fellow PSD brother, there is no such thing as a dumb question, especially when FoMoCo keeps changing their minds (and numbers). If I can do some of these things, anyone can.

 

I think I get it now. My manual says FW-15 for Engine Coolant Additive part number. Which has since been replaced with FW-16 which has been replaced with DC8. Am I getting warm yet? I just had my radiator flushed back in June and the coolant level is a liitle low. If I understand the process right, I should get some additive test strips and if it needs more to get in the 1.3 to 2.0 window use the additive to fill. If I am already in the 1.3 to 2.0 window, use distilled water to fill. Sound right? Thanks for the help.

 

You got it. I've seen a post somewhere about how much DCA4 to add to get the count up, and there might be someone to chime in about how much to bring the SCA's up (1 oz. of DCA4 to raise SCA's up .1-as an example only). The DCA4 bottle might have the fluid/SCA conversion on it, but mine have been tossed. SmokeyWren knows this stuff very well, so you can do a search within FTE.

 

Beg to differ - the literature denotes DCA as:

DRY CHEMICAL ADDITIVE

Yeah, I thought the same as you - until I found out differently.


Have a great day...

Ron C