oil pan removal
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
oil pan removal
I have a 73 F100 2wd 302 engine - engine/tranny in truck mounted. Looking for any tips if needed for pulling oil pan. Seems my oil pump will not prime new engine so I want to pull pan and inspect or change out oil pump. The engine has nothing in it really yet - just the rotating assembly and valve train and I get no oil anywhere with 5+ quarts. Will pan clear everything or should I put a reserve on an engine hoist?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
Everything I read says counterclockwise but there is no resistance going that way. Did not really try clockwise as I did not see anything that is the way it should go. I could try just for giggles I guess.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
I guess that when you put the oil pump in, the drive rod was attached to it with the circlip in place to not let the rod be pulled out with the distributor? If the drive rod was dropped in from above, my guess is it didn't go down far enough or completely missed the oil pump drive. If dropped in with the clip in place, it didn't go down far enough.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
Okay - I'll double check all that - seemed to me that it hit bottom on something but maybe not.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
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It should be counter clockwise. you can always tell by the vacuum advance can, it will always pull into the rotation direction, not with it.
It would be hard to have a suction leak so bad it won't prime. are you sure it's the right pickup tube? are you sure your tool is seating on the drive and actually turning it? you should be able to feel the pump turning even if it's not primed.
how fast is your drill? sometimes too slow of rotation won't prime a pump.
It would be hard to have a suction leak so bad it won't prime. are you sure it's the right pickup tube? are you sure your tool is seating on the drive and actually turning it? you should be able to feel the pump turning even if it's not primed.
how fast is your drill? sometimes too slow of rotation won't prime a pump.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
All that could be true - right now the engine is way open, no intake on, just rotating assembly and heads/valves. and timeing/water pump of course. Before I put intake on I want to see if prime up. I'll double check everything with the hex bar - see that its seated and down all the way. Put a fresh battery on the dewalt - click on high speed and see what we get.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
Yes oil is in pan - break in oil, filter is on, oil pressure tube and sender is on (didn't know if that would matter or not). basically intake/carb and rest is only things not on and buttoned up - top of engine.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 700
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agree w/ all the above comments. CCW is the correct direction and you should feel some resistance.
I have a 4x4 so slightly different set up, but if you need to lift the engine a bit for clearance, you can always put a jack under the balancer after loosening the motor mounts. for the 4x4, I needed to lift it a bit to get the pan over the front axle and to clear the oil pickup.
I have a 4x4 so slightly different set up, but if you need to lift the engine a bit for clearance, you can always put a jack under the balancer after loosening the motor mounts. for the 4x4, I needed to lift it a bit to get the pan over the front axle and to clear the oil pickup.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
So did some more checking -
Thanks for all the discussion.
- If I took damper off, oil pan should come right out the front, pulling out underneath appears to also be pretty open, maybe some pan gymnastics but looks do-able. nothing in front of engine so I have that luxury of my space is wide open to access stuff.
- I think the issue is the receptacle for the hex round seems rounded out a bit. When I turn the hex rod by hand with a 1/4 socket it feels like it turning something and then it just lets go and re-catches. With hex rod maybe not fully seated, when I did the drill thing, maybe damage the socket in the pump is best I can guess.
- I did get to the point where there was some, very minimal amount of oil getting up to the rockers and a teaspoon made it to the oil filter but that was it.
Thanks for all the discussion.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 700
Likes: 214
If you think you rounded off the priming tool, I’d replace that first. Way easier than trying to drain the oil and dropping the pan. Especially if you were able to get oil to come up to the top. You can also use a socket on an extension. Just tape it good to make sure it doesn’t fall off into the pan. Also make sure you didn’t round off the pump shaft. They are usually hardened, so unlikely, but might want to double check. And as mentioned before, check the size of your priming tool. Ford made a couple of sizes. 302 will use a smaller size than the 351m/400 family.