Hi, guys my carbureted engine which is 460 started shaking yesterday while taking it for a spin and even today the shake is still there what could cause all of this?

 

First check for broken engine mounts, then idle circuit in carburetor, then distributor. You should start getting more replies soon as there are some pretty smart individuals here.

 

My electric chock wire is disconnected and there are alot of things going under my hood which I would be looking forward to fix, seems like I would be sending it to the garage soon.

 

Quite possibly a cyl miss .First you need to determine which one . The simplest is to start the engine cold and get a spry bottle set on stream with water and spray the individual exhaust outlets on the heads . You will quickly see if one or more doesn't evaporate the water as fast as the others . This works better with headers as they don't heat soak from the other cylinders but will still work on a cold motor with cast manifolds . .

 

There are so many things that could cause this, you need to be a lot more descriptive in your questions of this nature if you want plausible educated answers. e.g. was it running then started shaking, did it fire up fine and then start shaking, where you driving it when it started shaking, when was it last tuned up, fuel filter replaced etc.... Some of the items that could cause your issue is fouled plug, bad points (from no ballast resistor hooked up, I saw your other post), crap in your carb, bad plug wire, etc... Highly unlikely but pulled rocker stud, bad valve, broken piston ring, the list can go on and on. Hopefully you get the picture, you need to help us if you want us to help you. A video of it running would help a lot. Good luck.
Also location of where your at helps as someone may close enough and volunteer to help. And before Abe or one of the others mention it, pics of what you have and are working on are always appreciated (aka "mandatory")

 

If the electric choke is disconnected the choke plate is not open all the way, so when your engine is warmed up you are running very rich, causing or ar least contributing to your problems. I don't know which carb you are running but if it's an aftermarket Holley or Edlebrock you need to get the e-choke connected to a 12 volt, key on fused source. Some guys pick off the 12 volt source from the Ignition switch side of the ballast resistor. (Autolite/Motorcraft used to connect to the Alternator stator connection IIRC.) You want to make sure the choke cap power is not connected on the coil side of your ballast resistor. This is assuming your coil doesn't have a resistor built into it or you are not using resistor wire to your coil.
Add the electric choke connection and the ballast resistor (if electrically needed).
Inspect your points for burnt contacts. If you didnt have a ballast resistor, resistor wire, or a coil with the resistor built in, you could of roasted the points and maybe even the coil if the ignition key was left in the ON position with the engine not running, such as if it died and no one shut it off. The points could of landed in the closed position, with current left to flow through them causing the coil and points to get very hot thus resulting in some damaged ignition parts.
So try those things as well as the other suggestions above, and see where you are at.

Edit:

One other thing to look for is the possibility of plug wire crossfire.
If say the firing order has cylinders 7 and 8 firing next to each other as the small blocks do. I dont know a 460s firing order, but say if you were looking into this on a 289 or early 302, you would seperate the 7 and 8 wires apart from each other with wires to the other cylinders on the same side. Also crossing one wire over the top of the other can help eliminate it too.

Hope it helps!