Smog delete / air pump delete gone wrong
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
Smog delete / air pump delete gone wrong
93 F-150 351W 4x4 XLT, E4OD, 8.8", TTB
Got rid of all that smog mess w/ the exception of the EGR and the cross pipe behind the engine between the heads. The module that was there has been replaced w/ a plug.
Problem:
Engine starts, runs for about 55 seconds, then suddenly dies.
Wildcards:
I found 1 vacuum line was uncapped. W/ engine running, I plugged the hole w/ my thumb. Engine dies immediately. But when choked 1/2 way w/ tape, the engine idled slow and steady.
EGR: Is in place, plugged in.
The 3 modules in the group by the ignition coil have all been jumpered w/ 75-76 ohm resistors.
TIA
Got rid of all that smog mess w/ the exception of the EGR and the cross pipe behind the engine between the heads. The module that was there has been replaced w/ a plug.
Problem:
Engine starts, runs for about 55 seconds, then suddenly dies.
Wildcards:
I found 1 vacuum line was uncapped. W/ engine running, I plugged the hole w/ my thumb. Engine dies immediately. But when choked 1/2 way w/ tape, the engine idled slow and steady.
EGR: Is in place, plugged in.
The 3 modules in the group by the ignition coil have all been jumpered w/ 75-76 ohm resistors.
TIA
Last edited by hjartland; Oct 10, 2024 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Addition
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Is the crossover pipe behind the engine open to atmosphere? It cannot be it must be sealed up air tight.
The vacuum line to the EGR valve cannot be connected directly to manifold vacuum, that would hold it open constantly and result in stalling and a very lean running condition.
The solenoid towards the front is for EGR control, that should be connected directly to the EGR valve and manifold vacuum via the vacuum canister on the passenger inner fender..
if you want to disable EGR then disconnect and cap the vacuum line at the valve so it stays closed all the time.
Resistors in the solenoid plugs are unnecessary and won't prevent codes being set, codes for the air injection system are low proiority anyway and will not set a check engine light.
The vacuum line to the EGR valve cannot be connected directly to manifold vacuum, that would hold it open constantly and result in stalling and a very lean running condition.
The solenoid towards the front is for EGR control, that should be connected directly to the EGR valve and manifold vacuum via the vacuum canister on the passenger inner fender..
if you want to disable EGR then disconnect and cap the vacuum line at the valve so it stays closed all the time.
Resistors in the solenoid plugs are unnecessary and won't prevent codes being set, codes for the air injection system are low proiority anyway and will not set a check engine light.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
What vacuum canister do you have.. plastic dual chamber or metal juice can single chamber?
One line on each chamber is for manifold vacuum supply, you can test which one is correct but applying vacuum to one while capping the other with a finger, when you remove your finger you should hear air being released. This works one way but not the other.
The second port on each chamber goes to a control solenoid.. like the EGR solenoid below the coil.
One line on each chamber is for manifold vacuum supply, you can test which one is correct but applying vacuum to one while capping the other with a finger, when you remove your finger you should hear air being released. This works one way but not the other.
The second port on each chamber goes to a control solenoid.. like the EGR solenoid below the coil.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
Forgot to update this thread.
I went looking for any vacuum leaks, found one on the intake plenum's vacuum 'tree' as well as adjusted the timing. Took some time, but it's running well.
For anyone experiencing a similar issue;
Check all vacuum hoses, plugs, etc.
Make sure to disconnect the SPOUT connector, then set the timing, and reconnect the SPOUT.
And! We did swap out the ICM / DMM module on the inner fender, apron. Used an aftermarket one from an old engine.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for the help!
I went looking for any vacuum leaks, found one on the intake plenum's vacuum 'tree' as well as adjusted the timing. Took some time, but it's running well.
For anyone experiencing a similar issue;
Check all vacuum hoses, plugs, etc.
Make sure to disconnect the SPOUT connector, then set the timing, and reconnect the SPOUT.
And! We did swap out the ICM / DMM module on the inner fender, apron. Used an aftermarket one from an old engine.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for the help!
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