While parking my 64 F-100 in the driveway after returning from a trip to pick up a Christmas Tree, my brake pedal went straight to the floor. I must be living right, i'm glad it didn't blow as we were headed down the mountain on our way home. If I had killed us both in that truck my wife would have never spoken to me again!
I looked around today and the line is blown where it crosses under the transmission to the right front wheel. From the looks of things, I need to replace all of the brake lines. How big (and expensive) a job is this? Can they be bought already made up or am I going to have become a tubing bender?

 

They can be bought -- try www.inlinetube.com

You should really take notice of what just happened to you. The single cylinder master can fail catastrophically, leaving you with no brakes at all. That's why federal law required dual systems starting sometime in the later 60's.

Basically, you should ABSOLUTELY replace every bit of rubber and steel at a minimum. Better is a dual cylinder master. I think later duals are a bolt up from many years. Some may even have the correct length push rod. Other will require shortening of the rod. Lots of different solutions out there in this department.

For a little more, a disc upgrade is in order. mpbrakes.com is good source and has EXCELLENT downloadable catalog with brake tech stuff galore.

As to the lines -- DO NOT TRY TO FLARE STAINLESS AS A BEGINNER

I did -- nightmare. However the softer plain steel lines are easier and will do. Inline tube also offers a stainless kit that has different lenghts of stainless already preflared. try

http://www.speedwaymotors.com

for more stuff too.

Finally, search this site in detail. This topic is old and repeats often.

My advice: Get a dual master for drum-drums, a prop valve from MPbrakes and a coil of line and fix it up!!!!

 

You can get the steel line to bend your own at any good auto parts store. I believe you have 3/16" under that truck. It comes in 20", 30", 40", 60" lengths. It bends very easily. You join the lengths you need with flared unions made out of brass. Each end of the steel tubing thread into these unions. You may have to double flare the last piece if they're too long. Also order the rubber lines for the truck as they may be mush inside. The steel lines and fittings shouldn't run more that $$30-40 dollars. The rubber hoses may run $25-30 each. make sure you bleed all the air out starting with the right rear cyl, then left rear, right front, then left front. Make sure the fluid comes out clean. Might be a good time to really check over the shoes and cyls and drums too.
You can convert to a dual master cyl, but is a little more involved and you still have to replace everything I described above. When safety of yourself and family is involved, money is secondary.

 

I just made all new lines when I converted to disc, as mine were also rotten. Not that hard, you develop a knack for it as you go. I'd start with the rear ones first as they are easier, with less complex turns. You'll need a flaring tool and a tubing bender, though you can bend the tubes without one (just have to be careful not to kink them). Stainless would be nice, but it's unnecessary if you think about it...those on your truck lasted almost 40 years of regular use.
Ditto the rubber hoses, they will swell shut as they get older. Do them at the same time.
Going to a dual m/cyl should be mandatory. It isn't that hard, and if you search on here you will find various donors that will bolt in (only issue is the pushrod length for the pedal, which can be shortened. Though some donors are reported to be bolt-ins).
Some of the commentary on my disc brake page may be helpful to you, though the swap only works on I-beam trucks:
Dwight's Disc Brake Swap How-To

 

Ditto to the above.

The job isn't that difficult. I recommend getting a double flaring tool kit from your local parts store. Advance has a decent one for $25.00. Eastwood sells a nice little pack of 25 ft of soft steel and extra fittings for another 25.00. Then you will need a tubing bender and cutter. Decide which will work best for you. If you anticipate having to do more than one line, invest in the kits. You WILL need to eventually replace all your lines. If you get pre-flared at the parts store, it is expensive. But you will still need the bender and cutter.

My 2 cents

 

Hey thanks guys, lots of good information. It sounds like time and energy will be my most limiting factors. I'll look at the web sites. I'm trying to make this truck ready for my 14 yr old son to drive in a couple of years. I figure we'll keep a lot of steel around him ... but all that's not much use without good brakes!

 

Good advice given. I did the M/C swap this summer on my 63. I went with Power Brakes ( still all drum brakes )and new lines ( shoes and w/cyl's had been done earlier ) and man let me tell you what a difference it made. I probley spent a little more doing this than most as I went with the kit from Master Power Brake, but it was basically a bolt on, only requiring running the additional line from the m/c. My truck is 4WD, and scales at 5000lbs, so the original system had you really standing on the brake pedal at times . If you can find one, look at an early Bronco. They had drums all around, this is basically what my kit is based on, with a small 7" dual diafram booster ( that clears my 390 valve covers easily with room to spare ). Good luck, Al

 

Note that you can get a loaner flaring tool at autozone... a cutter and el cheapo bender are somewhere around five bucks each at HF.

Bob

 

I'd say go with the dual power approach, along with replacing ALL lines with new steel. Stainless is a matter of taste and what look you are after, plus the extra cost. Bending and flaring tubing isn't that hard., like everything else takes time, pacience, and practice.

I'm the same way about steel around the ones I love. The way they make these cars and trucks these days if you run over a rabit it is totalled. Nothing but a tin can.

If you have the time and money you should also consider the front disc conversion?

Good Luck, with the truck and the boy, I dred the day my son is that old!

Bobby

 

More good info ... thanks. and don't worry you won't have to dread your son benig that old long ... he'll be there before you know it!