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Suddenly reading about a surge in battery problems on here. New vehicles are so demanding. So many of them are making noises if you go out in the garage. Fuel pumps and other stuff. I killed my second set of batteries in an older 2014 in just four years, and I installed a battery tender in the engine compartment along with a plug in the bumper. Nothing was causing extra drain. I just don't drive the truck often enough. My GT500, truck, and ate are all on tenders now. In the winter I put the tender on my lawn mower too, but now I have two riding mowers. LOL
Suddenly reading about a surge in battery problems on here. New vehicles are so demanding. So many of them are making noises if you go out in the garage. Fuel pumps and other stuff. I killed my second set of batteries in an older 2014 in just four years, and I installed a battery tender in the engine compartment along with a plug in the bumper. Nothing was causing extra drain. I just don't drive the truck often enough. My GT500, truck, and ate are all on tenders now. In the winter I put the tender on my lawn mower too, but now I have two riding mowers. LOL
Suddenly reading about a surge in battery problems on here. New vehicles are so demanding. So many of them are making noises if you go out in the garage. Fuel pumps and other stuff. I killed my second set of batteries in an older 2014 in just four years, and I installed a battery tender in the engine compartment along with a plug in the bumper. Nothing was causing extra drain. I just don't drive the truck often enough. My GT500, truck, and ate are all on tenders now. In the winter I put the tender on my lawn mower too, but now I have two riding mowers. LOL
heat is being blamed for most of these due to engine bay overload with exotic excesses all of which generate heat in the engine bay in one way our another.
i got 2 years on my own original 2019 750 cca batteries and am at the 3 year mark on my 36 month warranty 850 cca batteries.
when these go in replacing with EFB technology for the higher heat tolerance and acid recirculation technology.
heat is being blamed for most of these due to engine bay overload with exotic excesses all of which generate heat in the engine bay in one way our another.
i got 2 years on my own original 2019 750 cca batteries and am at the 3 year mark on my 36 month warranty 850 cca batteries.
when these go in replacing with EFB technology for the higher heat tolerance and acid recirculation technology.
Could be. Time will tell in my situation. The last two sets of batteries in my truck averaged 2 years, which is horrible. On board computers demand a bit of power, and eventually bleed down batteries if the truck isn't run for a couple weeks or more. So, that's what I'm addressing with the tender. I think the biggest problem is batteries just aren't made as well as they used to be made. I think the OEM battery in my GT500 lasted 12 years, and that engine compartment gets pretty hot too with all the blower heat in addition to engine heat.
If I drove the truck daily, I wouldn't bother with the tender, but I don't. Hopefully the tender will extend the life of my batteries a lot, but like I already said......time will tell.
My passenger battery on my 2020 is toast. It will only charge up to 10.5 volts. All the cells have acid. Externally there is zero corrosion. Driver's side batt tests OK but is not full strength anymore either. It probably has been weakened by the bad passenger battery (which I disconnected since I discovered it was crap). Looking at replacing with some AGM's from Walmart.
My passenger battery on my 2020 is toast. It will only charge up to 10.5 volts. All the cells have acid. Externally there is zero corrosion. Driver's side batt tests OK but is not full strength anymore either. It probably has been weakened by the bad passenger battery (which I disconnected since I discovered it was crap). Looking at replacing with some AGM's from Walmart.
Get EFB batteries…they have higher heat tolerance than AGM
the pax side battery going kaput is a common problem….dont know the cause but I am on my 3rd pax battery in 5 years ….decided to run a ground cable from the neg of the pax side to the negative of the drivers side. The positives are already tied together and I seen no reason not to have the negatives tied together. Something spooky is going on with the pax side neg to ground using the body instead of the frame .
If you're going from the battery to the frame, I would think that normal cable would be all you need. There shouldn't be movement - or very little - between the battery and frame. Movement between the alternator and the frame is a different matter. The braid cable in your picture wouldn't be necessary. I'm not a fan of that type of cable because it doesn't support as many amps as regular cable at similar prices.
In my experience, the negative cable should be grounded to the frame, for sure, but also to the body (for all electronic componentry).
I've been pondering the efficacy of adding some strategically placed ground straps. Anyone found that doing such is worth the money and effort?
I'm sure it wouldn't hurt but I did something like this to my 96 F250... cannot remember exactly what I did, but I believe I used Ancor marine grade cable and did a "big 3 Upgrade" like this.... Because I plowed commercially with the 96. The big 3 upgrade is the alternator charge cable, alternator ground cable and the chassis ground cable. Guys do this for audio systems with lots of wattage. Nothing wrong with adding more ground wires... factory gets by with the bare minimum. This has me thinking about doing the big 3 upgrade to mine now... yeah... I'm all about overkill...
I wasn't proposing using the braided ground straps for primary current, just suggesting using them to improve grounds for non-starter components. Adding two or three from the engine to firewall, fenders, etc.. Simply to improve ground connections other than the single 14 AWG from the negative connector on the batteries to the fender.
Seems that with the aluminum bodies it might help, but just a WAG. Was just curious if others had done similar, and if it had any merit. I've found they've stabilize electrical components in other vehicles I've owned in the past, but no real experience with the aluminum body Super Duties.
It certainly won't hurt to add more cabling. Guys on the Nissan Titan forums were adding these types of cabling and reporting that the transmission seemed to shift better. I put a kit like that on my Titan but didn't notice much difference.
I wasn't proposing using the braided ground straps for primary current, just suggesting using them to improve grounds for non-starter components. Adding two or three from the engine to firewall, fenders, etc.. Simply to improve ground connections other than the single 14 AWG from the negative connector on the batteries to the fender.
Seems that with the aluminum bodies it might help, but just a WAG. Was just curious if others had done similar, and if it had any merit. I've found they've stabilize electrical components in other vehicles I've owned in the past, but no real experience with the aluminum body Super Duties.
My Idash reads 14.3-14.7 volts when running, has been that was since about 20k miles on my original batteries in my 21'.I have just about 30,000 miles now....worried Ill be replacing them soon with all the horror stories about crappy batteries soon but they load tested good when I checked them in August.
yeah... I'm all about overkill...
