Hey all! Have the typical 'what's it worth?' question....Or at least what should be the starting asking price for this rig?
Selling for my Father-in-law, don't have a whole lot of history knowledge but here are some facts:
1968 F100, Manual 2WD, Longbed
ODO shows 69,858....guessing its rolled once.
Warranty #: F10YRC02943
Current air cleaner cover has '390' sticker on it, warranty code says factory 360. Not sure what is truly in it...
Fairly clean, some surface rust and the typical cancer in the drivers floorboard.
I'm sure it 'ran when it was parked', but haven't had time to check any operations.
Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. I have lurked here for a while, finally calling on some help!
Truck is located in Oregon

 

Always a hard question to answer as it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay. I've seen $500 to $1000 trucks listed at 3 to 5K for the last couple years now and they tend to just sit on Market Place. But sometimes they sell as the right buyer comes along. Probably depends on how long your wiling to wait.

A few points here on the truck:
So with is sitting down sunk into the ground it is much closer to the damp earth and vegetation causing more chances of rust.
Also a good chance the hubs could be locked up and hard to move (more difficulty and headache for new owner)
Tabs say "98" so a good chance it's been sitting there for 26 years. (long time to sit in the weather neglected)
Speaking of sitting in the weather. Is it on the west side or east side of Oregon? West side: tons of more rain and moisture = more rust... East side: Dry and a little more forgiving.
Rust: Floors are not that hard to replace just time consuming. Front Cab supports Door jams and cab pillars are far more involved but still do-able. most all other body panels are bolt on replacements but if they are exterior and rotted you start to lose value to those who want an original patina paint truck. (Also rust likes to hide and if you see a little with a couple really bad spots there is probably a lot more)
Engine: is a toss up it could still be good or there might be a reason it's been sitting for the last couple decades. So no real value until farther assessment.
Interior: the 2 most expensive items are the seat and dash pad and both don't look good. Seat can be recovered for a few hundred if you do it yourself so it's saveable. Gauges and dash bezel are subjective to the new owner as to if they want to replace or repair.

The body appears to be straight and I don't see the typical signs of rust on the problem areas. So that's a positive Also it's very dirty so it's hard to tell what might be surface rust or dirt but the paint looks to be "ok" and possibly original. Another positive


I recently saw a truck very similar on Market place listed for $500 in western OR. It sold and then popped back on a day later for $3000 in Vancouver WA. and is now sitting on Market Place. The guy didn't even bother to clean it so you still can't asses the rust issues and I know I saw some in the first listing but not in the new listing.

So if I was trying to sell your truck I would see if I could get it to roll and move it from where it sits. Then I would give it a good bath and at least clean it up so the body can be seen well. Just those two things will help the value.

Other wise it looks to me like a $800 to maybe $1800 truck as it sits. Now keep in mind I will probably get stoned by other on here for saying that but I'm giving a honest assessment of what I can see of it. Most of us on here love these trucks and want to see the value go up on them but sometimes they are just in really bad shape and require far more work and $$$ then pictures show.

Unfortunately sitting outside for a very long time is not good for vehicles as weather and rodents tend to have their way with them and it's never good.


I could be a buyer as I would be interested in the Patina body for a body swap Hi-boy project I'm looking at doing but I'm not trying to low ball for that reason. It also depends on how far away it is.

Hope this helps and good luck with whatever you decide to do with it.

 

If it were cleaned up and gotten to where it would run and drive and met Hagerty's #4 condition it would be around $7800 but as it sits probably half that.
Hagerty's #4 condition is running and driving with cosmetic flaws needing mechanical and cosmetic attention.

 

Thank you for that very thorough explanation! Kind of the price point we were looking at as it sits.

Again, thank you for taking time of your day for a great response!

 

Crop Duster, thank you for the heads up on Hagerty's. I had seen some vehicles posted through them while searching, didn't realize they had a 'selling scale'. I will look into that and also try and find time to get that beast fired up!

 

x2 what FoPar1972 had to say.
Try and pull it out of the hole it is in even throw on some cheap used tires so it looks like it will move and hope it dose.
But if it dose not I dont know how crazy you want to go but if it rolls it helps get more money all be it not a lot.

A good pressure washing so it looks better and others can see what they and looking at goes a long way too.

The other big thing is the motor. As you seen everyone wants a 390 but I dont see a 360 being all that bad either.
What I do see as bad is it not turning over by hand. Put a socket on the crank bolt and see if it will turn over.
Before doing that you may want to pull the plugs and put a 50/50 mix of ATF & Acid Tone and let it soak in.
If you can get the motor to turn over by hand that is good as it can also bring more money.
If it turns over then the motor has a 50/50 chance of running but locked up could be 100% it will never run.

I would say the way it sits now I might pay $1000 but if it rolled, motor turned over and looked better I might go to $2000.
Then again you might ask $5000 (cleaned up, etc.) and someone in the rust belt might jump at it before you can hit "send" on the key board.

Do you know if you have a title for the truck?
Dave ----

 

Hey Dave, thank you for more good advice. I hate making my way to Portland but yes, all the things you mentioned I had good intentions of doing! Just cutting out time right now is tough. My father-in-law bought the truck new, but unfortunately the title was in a small safe (along with all the other vehicle titles) that was stolen when their house was recently broken into. Not difficult to replace, but more time and energy....

 

No title equals a 50-75% drop in price, or more. Take the time to get one unless you just want rid of it at most any price other than giving it away.

 

That is why I asked about it.
Some states you dont need one, just a BoS works but the more paper work you can give the DMV the better.

It all depends on how much work you want to do to the truck for the pay back you might get.
I think we kind of pointed that out in our posts.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

So here's a pretty good comparison. We bought our truck, 71, at auction 2 years ago for $1000. It was sold on the condition that it had no title and no keys and had sat since the mid 90's. Box has significant damage to the passenger side and drivers fender is wasted. The grill was shot. At first glance it looked to be pretty rust free. AC/PS/PB/Ranger truck. As it turned out it did have Keys and a title. I have been told by at least 3 different bidders (after the fact) that they would have paid more had they known it had a title and were pissed they didn't bid. It does have rust in the door jams and kick panels.

Last year I bought the rights to part out a 72 F250 camper (cowl forward truck) for $700. I could have taken the whole thing but I didn't care to and just stripped it of what I wanted (wish I would have pulled the stuck motor and trans now). I did this to grab a grill, dash pad and fender. I've since made back all but $100 of that selling parts I didn't need. The camper part was junk and the truck was 100% parts only.

I have over $6,000 in the truck now and the engine is sitting on a stand getting freshened up. It was running and driving but had low oil pressure and started to tick.

All of that to say you're probably in the $1000-$2000 ball park. If it were mine and I wasn't keeping it, I would clean it up. Pressure washing is cheap and takes just a few hours. Clean the outside, clean the inside, under the hood etc. Air up the tires etc. and you'll get top dollar. Check out my build tread if you want to see why it costs so much to put these back on the road if you don't have parts just laying around. It adds up very quickly. Also for context I'm in Eastern Nebraska.

 

I'm going to sound dramatic here but "for the love of god please get the title". So many vehicles without them and it's getting worse. Here in Nebraska its easy. Walk into the courthouse, tell them you need a duplicate title. $20 later you have one. So many people buy these things and then never put the title in their name. My buddy does that, leaves them open then looses them, on vehicles he drives! The last one I had to facebook stalk old owners to even get a title and then it was in Arizona and the guy lived in Texas. It was a year long mess.

 

There is no such thing as cheap used tires around here. I've been looking for 1 235/75R15 tire for a spare for 7 years. Its basically cheaper for me to buy a new tire at walmart.

T.C.

 

Back many years ago, I used to like to buy vehicles with no title, such as grampaw's car, and grampaw had died, ect. The price was always dirt cheap.

Back then, there were many ways to get a title. Not so much now.

My days of swapping, trading, wheeling and dealing, are mostly over. I have a lot of stuff I need to get rid of, not buy more.

What I'm not giving away, I'm selling cheap.

 

Get the title and make sure the vin # is correct. I recently discovered that the vin on my title to my '64 was missing the last #. I had it for seven years and the PO had registered, it in AZ, back in '97. I had to get a bonded title for it. 2 1/2 years to go before I can get a clear title.

 

Without a title I would give 700.00.