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Betty 74' 302 Column Shift Build thread.

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Old Oct 7, 2024 | 11:13 PM
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Betty 74' 302 Column Shift Build thread.

Soo here I am putting my build up for this truck. joined recently and the idea of sharing this build with people both knowledgeable and curious is such a privilege. These trucks are hard to come by and yet there is soo much support on this forum. I am very appreciative. Wanted to share my experience for anyone on here.

Mentioned in my intro thread that i picked this up off facebook marketplace. Price was much better than a 90's tacoma. I wont lie, my dad having one also influenced me because i saw how simple these trucks are and given how complicated these new cars are, i wanted to get something that doesn't give too much fuss.
According to my Marti Report which I got from my thread posting about my codes. @mwoj and @77&79F250 set me right because I could not properly decipher the numbers on the plates. (Still havent checked the frame!!) I just got the truck titled in my name too. Ill come back to that thread and verify! If you dont have one, get one! that info in the last paragraph is such a nugget to know.

might get some white walls but idk. i like the hubcaps on there now and have considered painting the wheels black! if you have pics of that setup, let me see it!!
Running a 302 and i wonder if it's original.

Main idea is get it as reliable as possible to be a 2nd vehicle to drive around when my main car is down for repairs and i need to move around. I will try to stay away from modding because then that's a rabbit hole and ill end up with another project car ( i have 2 honda preludes under construction) . However, I do not mind upgrading with new technology like the LED Domelight from

here: https://fatfender.com/products/1973-...41670671073470

thanks to @crazy96863 for the link because i was thinking of the LMC LED Domelight but no Lumens mentioned on that site. it's pricey but 100 Lumens is bright!! I ride bicycles and I have a 1k Lumen head light so i would know!

1st part ordered was a Battery tray from C&G

https://cgfordparts.com/battery-tray...z-10732-j.html

total was about 50$ with shipping. Looks powdercoated so i wont worry about painting it anytime soon.

Got the tray because the acid has eaten through the old one and into the wheel well!! might need to fix that to keep water from splashing into the battery.


Heres Betty:

Got these pics on the day I brought her home.

side profile is the best profile

sittin sideways...

Can anyone ID this tailgate? The seller pulled off the original one because it had some damage and it had the Ford Plaque with the Aluminum borders

I notice the drivers rear has a sag that makes it uneven. That kinda bothers me so ill have to look into that. Gonna nab my dads rear bumper because it has a hitch attached to it and I need one to throw on my bike rack to carry more bikes!!

Does anyone have these buckles?

Not sure how many i need but this is the only one on there

So, Issues ive noticed i need to address are,
-Only highbeams are working.
-Non original side mirrors. looking for some.
-Sag on rear Drivers side
-Transmission Gears sticking
-Turnsignals dont work. Hazards do.
-Thinking about a new windshield because this one is hazy
-Driver door alignment(sag)
-Pass fender hitting the door.
-Drivers Door window needs new seals and hand crank is real stiff to roll up
-Need some brown window visors
-the tailgate part of the bed seems to have opened up at the top. I was thinking of getting a ratchet strap to close it up. has anyone dealt with that? what methods did you use?
-also im not much of a fan of the exhaust. was looking for an OEM option with regular mufflers. lmk if you'd like to trade

Ill post pics of the front tomorrow!

Tomorrow:

10/08



Replaced my battery tray and was surprised by the rust :/
Before:



Rust on wheel well
​​​​​

After


Thanks for checking in!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 01:10 PM
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The raised letters suggests it’s an OEM tailgate from a truck with a lower trim level. You can drill out to install trim or leave as is; I suggest the latter.

aftermarket tailgates will bend if you look at them wrong so you got hooked up.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 01:16 PM
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Just read a little farther into your post.

I suggest an exhaust exiting in front of rear axle. It’ll save you a few bucks. Stock mufflers are cheap; you’ll spend more trying to recycle. Cheap performance mufflers aren’t much more. You could straight pipe it as well. Chrome tips are obnoxious.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by crazy96863
Just read a little farther into your post.

I suggest an exhaust exiting in front of rear axle. It’ll save you a few bucks. Stock mufflers are cheap; you’ll spend more trying to recycle. Cheap performance mufflers aren’t much more. You could straight pipe it as well. Chrome tips are obnoxious.
Any idea how much quieter than the glass packs on now?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by crazy96863
The raised letters suggests it’s an OEM tailgate from a truck with a lower trim level. You can drill out to install trim or leave as is; I suggest the latter.

aftermarket tailgates will bend if you look at them wrong so you got hooked up.
Nice!
What I was trying to point out is the bed being a bit off when aligning to the tailgate.


 
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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Prelude92
Any idea how much quieter than the glass packs on now?
i would have to research for decibels but consider modern trucks. The engines still make noise. Between resonators and mufflers you can barely hear them.

The answer is basically as quiet as you’d like for it to be.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2024 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by crazy96863
i would have to research for decibels but consider modern trucks. The engines still make noise. Between resonators and mufflers you can barely hear them.

The answer is basically as quiet as you’d like for it to be.
That's good enough for me thanks! I might do a straight pipe
 
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Old Oct 15, 2024 | 04:05 PM
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Found a spare handle snooping through my dad's parts bin

Noticed this sag on the fender and it triggers the OCD into me. Drove it to try and get an "inspection" but was denied


Also... Tried to square up the box
 
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Old Oct 15, 2024 | 07:37 PM
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Why did it fail the inspection?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2024 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by crazy96863
Why did it fail the inspection?
My turn signals and one of my brake lights wasn't working.

Took a look and my reverse lights were toast!

Replaced bulbs and brake lights are working.

Looked at my turn signal switch and it looks toast. I need a steering wheel puller bolts to remove the wheel and replace the switch.

Anyone have an OEM steering wheel? I don't like the much smaller grant wheel on there. Harder to turn with now power steering!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2024 | 03:46 PM
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Got packages from LMC and Dennis Carpenter
-reverse switch
-replacement parking light housing
-turnsignal switch (manual transmission)
- Window channel kit
-lh door track

Replaced my Clutch Spring and what a difference!
When I took off the old spring, I could see wear on the contact portions of years of metal to metal rubbing and the tension on the old spring felt soft. Got it because I was hearing the clutch not fully disengaging and it's helped!



Ordered a turn signal switch and need appropriate bolts to pull the steering wheel but I was able to see some of that green corrosion on the turn signal side! Hoping for a quick remove and replace!

Question:
What do you folks use to attach the metal track to secure the door window on it?



Got some die electric grease. Now, can I smother it across contacts with no shorting or do I just apply making sure the grease doesn't touch other contacts?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2024 | 07:34 AM
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Glass setting tape...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...4aAtdVEALw_wcB

Maybe since you only need a couple of feet of it, hit up the local automotive glass shop for a piece. Cheaper than buying a complete roll.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2024 | 07:40 AM
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I read up on the correct use of Dielectric grease.

"Hearing a few electrical issues of late which could be attributed to the overuse of Dielectric Grease.Dielectric Grease first and foremost is an electrical insulator and will not aid in the conduction of electricity. It may help keep moisture away from connections but even silicone grease or similar will do that.

For general automotive application where there is only 12v, or the 100ac volts or so from the stator of your charging system, a better product which can assist in electrical contact, avoid oxidation and also blocks out moisture is Ox-Gard. Its not conductive to the point of causing shorts between adjacent connections so don't worry about that."

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index....pros-and-cons/


 
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Old Nov 9, 2024 | 01:21 PM
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Wish me luck!!!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2024 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Glass setting tape...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...4aAtdVEALw_wcB

Maybe since you only need a couple of feet of it, hit up the local automotive glass shop for a piece. Cheaper than buying a complete roll.
Rubber strip?!
I have plenty of old tire Tubes!! Ill let you know how that works!

Originally Posted by 77&79F250
I read up on the correct use of Dielectric grease.

"Hearing a few electrical issues of late which could be attributed to the overuse of Dielectric Grease.Dielectric Grease first and foremost is an electrical insulator and will not aid in the conduction of electricity. It may help keep moisture away from connections but even silicone grease or similar will do that.

For general automotive application where there is only 12v, or the 100ac volts or so from the stator of your charging system, a better product which can assist in electrical contact, avoid oxidation and also blocks out moisture is Ox-Gard. Its not conductive to the point of causing shorts between adjacent connections so don't worry about that."

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index....pros-and-cons/
I sincerely appreciate you researching that!
 
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