Betty 74' 302 Column Shift Build thread.

Mentioned in my intro thread that i picked this up off facebook marketplace. Price was much better than a 90's tacoma. I wont lie, my dad having one also influenced me because i saw how simple these trucks are and given how complicated these new cars are, i wanted to get something that doesn't give too much fuss.
According to my Marti Report which I got from my thread posting about my codes. @mwoj and @77&79F250 set me right because I could not properly decipher the numbers on the plates. (Still havent checked the frame!!) I just got the truck titled in my name too. Ill come back to that thread and verify! If you dont have one, get one! that info in the last paragraph is such a nugget to know.
might get some white walls but idk. i like the hubcaps on there now and have considered painting the wheels black! if you have pics of that setup, let me see it!!
Running a 302 and i wonder if it's original.
Main idea is get it as reliable as possible to be a 2nd vehicle to drive around when my main car is down for repairs and i need to move around. I will try to stay away from modding because then that's a rabbit hole and ill end up with another project car ( i have 2 honda preludes under construction)
. However, I do not mind upgrading with new technology like the LED Domelight fromhere: https://fatfender.com/products/1973-...41670671073470
thanks to @crazy96863 for the link because i was thinking of the LMC LED Domelight but no Lumens mentioned on that site. it's pricey but 100 Lumens is bright!! I ride bicycles and I have a 1k Lumen head light so i would know!
1st part ordered was a Battery tray from C&G
https://cgfordparts.com/battery-tray...z-10732-j.html
total was about 50$ with shipping. Looks powdercoated so i wont worry about painting it anytime soon.
Got the tray because the acid has eaten through the old one and into the wheel well!! might need to fix that to keep water from splashing into the battery.
Heres Betty:
Got these pics on the day I brought her home.
side profile is the best profile
sittin sideways...
Can anyone ID this tailgate? The seller pulled off the original one because it had some damage and it had the Ford Plaque with the Aluminum borders
I notice the drivers rear has a sag that makes it uneven. That kinda bothers me so ill have to look into that. Gonna nab my dads rear bumper because it has a hitch attached to it and I need one to throw on my bike rack to carry more bikes!!
Does anyone have these buckles?
Not sure how many i need but this is the only one on there

So, Issues ive noticed i need to address are,
-Only highbeams are working.
-Non original side mirrors. looking for some.
-Sag on rear Drivers side
-Transmission Gears sticking
-Turnsignals dont work. Hazards do.
-Thinking about a new windshield because this one is hazy
-Driver door alignment(sag)
-Pass fender hitting the door.
-Drivers Door window needs new seals and hand crank is real stiff to roll up
-Need some brown window visors

-the tailgate part of the bed seems to have opened up at the top. I was thinking of getting a ratchet strap to close it up. has anyone dealt with that? what methods did you use?
-also im not much of a fan of the exhaust. was looking for an OEM option with regular mufflers. lmk if you'd like to trade

Ill post pics of the front tomorrow!
Tomorrow:
10/08
Replaced my battery tray and was surprised by the rust :/
Before:
Rust on wheel well
After
Thanks for checking in!
aftermarket tailgates will bend if you look at them wrong so you got hooked up.
I suggest an exhaust exiting in front of rear axle. It’ll save you a few bucks. Stock mufflers are cheap; you’ll spend more trying to recycle. Cheap performance mufflers aren’t much more. You could straight pipe it as well. Chrome tips are obnoxious.
I suggest an exhaust exiting in front of rear axle. It’ll save you a few bucks. Stock mufflers are cheap; you’ll spend more trying to recycle. Cheap performance mufflers aren’t much more. You could straight pipe it as well. Chrome tips are obnoxious.
What I was trying to point out is the bed being a bit off when aligning to the tailgate.
The answer is basically as quiet as you’d like for it to be.
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Found a spare handle snooping through my dad's parts bin
Noticed this sag on the fender and it triggers the OCD into me. Drove it to try and get an "inspection" but was denied
Also... Tried to square up the box
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Took a look and my reverse lights were toast!
Replaced bulbs and brake lights are working.
Looked at my turn signal switch and it looks toast. I need a steering wheel puller bolts to remove the wheel and replace the switch.
Anyone have an OEM steering wheel? I don't like the much smaller grant wheel on there. Harder to turn with now power steering!
-reverse switch
-replacement parking light housing
-turnsignal switch (manual transmission)
- Window channel kit
-lh door track
Replaced my Clutch Spring and what a difference!
When I took off the old spring, I could see wear on the contact portions of years of metal to metal rubbing and the tension on the old spring felt soft. Got it because I was hearing the clutch not fully disengaging and it's helped!
Ordered a turn signal switch and need appropriate bolts to pull the steering wheel but I was able to see some of that green corrosion on the turn signal side! Hoping for a quick remove and replace!
Question:
What do you folks use to attach the metal track to secure the door window on it?
Got some die electric grease. Now, can I smother it across contacts with no shorting or do I just apply making sure the grease doesn't touch other contacts?
Maybe since you only need a couple of feet of it, hit up the local automotive glass shop for a piece. Cheaper than buying a complete roll.
"Hearing a few electrical issues of late which could be attributed to the overuse of Dielectric Grease.Dielectric Grease first and foremost is an electrical insulator and will not aid in the conduction of electricity. It may help keep moisture away from connections but even silicone grease or similar will do that.
For general automotive application where there is only 12v, or the 100ac volts or so from the stator of your charging system, a better product which can assist in electrical contact, avoid oxidation and also blocks out moisture is Ox-Gard. Its not conductive to the point of causing shorts between adjacent connections so don't worry about that."
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index....pros-and-cons/
Maybe since you only need a couple of feet of it, hit up the local automotive glass shop for a piece. Cheaper than buying a complete roll.
I have plenty of old tire Tubes!! Ill let you know how that works!
"Hearing a few electrical issues of late which could be attributed to the overuse of Dielectric Grease.Dielectric Grease first and foremost is an electrical insulator and will not aid in the conduction of electricity. It may help keep moisture away from connections but even silicone grease or similar will do that.
For general automotive application where there is only 12v, or the 100ac volts or so from the stator of your charging system, a better product which can assist in electrical contact, avoid oxidation and also blocks out moisture is Ox-Gard. Its not conductive to the point of causing shorts between adjacent connections so don't worry about that."
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index....pros-and-cons/












