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Grab the gear and twist it back and forth, if it rotates on the shaft at all the roll pin might be sheared, or is bent and about to shear. If it's solid, that's not your culprit.
Next, holding the gear, grab the rotor (if it's removed, put it back in) while holding the gear twist the rotor clockwise and counter clockwise, it should move a little with the shaft and gear held firm, what you're doing is moving the mechanical advance, when you have moved the rotor let go of it and it should snap back into place, that'll will confirm if the advance springs are still intact. If it doesn't snap back or the rotor moves easily without any resistance from spring tension, your mechanical advance springs are broken. If the rotor doesn't move at all, your mechanical advance is froze in place probably due to rust.
Since you got it out, if you have a hand vacuum pump you can test the vac advance, hook up your pump and pull 10" or so of vacuum, you should see the arm going through body of dizzy connecting under the rotor move, if it doesn't move vacuum diagram is shot, of it does move, keep the vacuum on it for a minute or so and make sure it holds vacuum, if vacuum on the gauge drops, your diaphram is leaking.
If all those things check out good, I'm thinking you have an issue with your timing chain.
I checked those things and it’s ok. This is also a new distributor so I’m going to assume all good. However check this photo: I can only get distributor in this far. I can’t get it to seat properly.
For a quick check unhook your vacuum advance and see what happens.
If you're hooked to manifold vacuum on your advance it can cause issues. if it's not that your mechanical advance probably has broken springs or some sort of problem.
Your damper may be sliding. Scratch a mark across the front of it and unto center hub. Drive and check. Your distributor and engine have a chisel mark that was done at Ford when engine was initially timed and then stamped.
Can you explain this more? I’m not sure what to do here.
The dampner is the piece with the timing marks on it. It is bolted to the crankshaft. The outer ring is held onto the inner ring with a rubber layer. Sometimes these break down and the outer ring with the timing marks can slip in comparison to the inner ring bolted to the crank. Make a straight mark across the front face of the dampner, across the inner piece, the rubber, and the outer ring.
If your engine is still running the same then it might be the outer ring on the harmonic damper is slipping. The rubber between inner and out rings has deteriorated and you need to replace the damper.
If there are other symptoms such as stalling, rough running, misfires, etc, let us know.
Are harmonic balancer and harmonic damper the same thing?
The dampner is the piece with the timing marks on it. It is bolted to the crankshaft. The outer ring is held onto the inner ring with a rubber layer. Sometimes these break down and the outer ring with the timing marks can slip in comparison to the inner ring bolted to the crank. Make a straight mark across the front face of the dampner, across the inner piece, the rubber, and the outer ring.
I checked those things and it’s ok. This is also a new distributor so I’m going to assume all good. However check this photo: I can only get distributor in this far. I can’t get it to seat properly.
That's due to oil pump driveshaft, you can bump the ignition (remove coil wire before you do this) and it should drop into place. You can either do that with key in cab (best to have someone else do that while you're pushing on distributor) or you can do so from the starter solenoid with a screw driver from positive to start terminal. Make sure it's in park or out of gear if it's a manual before you do that!
If anything, when you disconnect the vac line idle should either drop or no change at all. If idle drops, you're either connected to manifold vac, or idle is set high enough that throttle plates are slightly open sending vac signal to the ported vacuum port.
Since this isn't right, it's probably the cause of your problem. sounds most likely you need to advance your initial so you can lower your idle speed and get your timing port over the throttle plates.
Your vibration damper can slip, but it's not going to be rattling around very long before it takes something out. in other words, it's probably not moving around on you.
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