Pulled my codes, Holy Cow!
I pulled my codes today in hopes of tracking down a poor idle(won't idle when cold)/heavy miss on acceleration (in gear or not). This is what came out:
KOEO
23 TPS out of range during test
34 PFE/EPT sensor fault/High exhaust pressure
Continuous
34 same as above
67 NPS open with A/C on during test (I DON"T HAVE A/C)
95 no code listed on F-T website or in Haynes manual?????
KOER
23 same as above
12 cannot control RPM during high RPM test
13 cannot control RPM during low RPM test
72 insufficient MAP change during Dynamic Response Check
73 Insufficient TPS change during Dynamic Response Check
74 Brake on/off open
25 knock sensor not detected during Dyn Res Check
65 Key circuit low voltage
I was shocked and awed at the number of codes, so I ran each test twice and I got the same results for all on both tries.
What the heck should I test/replace first that will cure my idle/miss problem? Does anyone know why I got a code 67 and 95?
This is what has been done in the last week: new coil, Ignition control module, fuel filter, fuel PUMP, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Has a 3 month old muffler on it.
Hit me with your ideas! Sorry this post is so long,
Mike B
Last edited by topdeadcenter; Nov 30, 2003 at 11:00 AM.
I will try it,
Mike B
Replace the tps and while you're out at the store getting it (in your other vehicle) leave the battery disconnected. install the new tps and then connect the battery. That should clear the old codes, and while you're driving around testing (you have to drive for a couple of hours total...doesn't have to be continuous) the computer will relearn the engine performance parameters and adjust to the new sensor. Also any new codes will be brought up and stored. Check codes in a week. then go from there.
Have no idea why 67 or 95.
67 can mean Neutral Pressure switch open, Clutch switch circuit failure, Neutral/drive switch open or A/C on, MLP sensor out of range or A/C on (E4OD)
95 can mean Fuel pump secondary circuit failure EEC to ground
hope this helps
By the way the miss is definately random. Which sucks even more, than if it was the same cyls.
Mike B
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Clean that while your at it too.
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If that is true, then I am pretty sure that mine gave me readings out of specs. That will get replaced tomorrow night. Just a couple of bolts, right?
I will disconnect the battery tonight and throw it on the charger.
I will let you know what happens,
Mike B
Original symptom was poor/no idle and poor performance. Try to "borrow" a known good MAP sensor from another vehicle to test with. They are expensive to purchase new, especially if you do not have to have it. Once you know that you need it, search for the best price. Good luck.
Refers to the neutral-park switch attached to the trans. ( About @29 at Autozone.) Often the NPS needs only a good cleaning. Its location exposes it to dirt and oil. When this code showed up I went underneath the truck and blasted the NPS with paint thinner driven by air pressure. The code never showed up again. And the transmission shifts quite smoothly. Try cleaning the NPS first before you invest in a new one.
Code 67-Neutral/drive switch open or A/C on
Code 67-Clutch switch circuit failure
Code 67-MLP sensor out of range or A/C on (E40D)
Code 65-Overdrive cancel switch open, no change seen (E40D)
Thats what Chiltons has on your codes
Last edited by 95BlackF150; Dec 2, 2003 at 01:10 PM.
So I got pissed and decided to take it for a drive and pound the crap out of it. I couldn't get the truck over 30 mph and when I would slam on the throttle it would bog way down and then buck and jump around until I let off. It was like this for about 10 min. Then it died while I was turning around. I restarted and it still ran like junk. Then I heard a whine come from under the hood for about a second and then the truck ran great. Ran like a watch, idled great! No misses! I was excited! Then I got home and let it idle some more in the driveway. With everything looking like it was fixed I shut her down.
20 minutes later I went out to see if I was dreaming, and it turns out I was. I couldn't get it to idle again without help.
And it misses just as bad as before. So I pulled my codes. It seems like they weren't erased by the battery being disconnected. They were all the same. So now what??????????
Any help at this point is greatly appreciated!
Mike B






