Battery-Charging Issues or Driving Habits or Both
Battery-Charging Issues or Driving Habits or Both
2024 F350 Lariat Ultimate LB CC 7.3l gas 3.73 axle 250-amp alternator. Delivered Jan '24, current mileage 3,300.
History
The past 4-5 months I have had low battery warnings on screen, difficult for starter to turn engine and had to jump start several times.
Fobs would not work after 1 episode and had to use passive mode to start, numerous warnings lights to service for 4x4, advance traction control, tpms and cross traffic/blind spot, occur at times.
Serviced end of July to fix FOB and TPMS warning light. I was told they had to disconnect the battery overnight to reset/correct issues. Tried to research the overnight disconnect solution but found nothing.
Twice (after low battery start) vehicle would not move when placed in drive or reverse; 1 time reengaged after running 10 min and 1 time had to shut off and jump start.
Charged battery Sept 2nd, battery voltage was 12.90. Left hood open overnight and tried to check battery voltage daily; 9/4-9/6 12.5v-12.6v, 9/7 - 9/18 low 12.4v.
Yesterday 9/19
I did not leave the hood unlatched overnight. Checked battery voltage approx. 3 mins after opening and it was 12.01 (9/18 12.48v) difficult to start, when started truck would not move in D or R.and had numerous warnings messages. Called Ford and had it towed to dealership. Towing service jump started the truck, it would move in D and R and warning lights were gone
9/19 Service Manger
Discussed problems with Service Manager yesterday when completing the job order for Monday. He believes I need to drive the truck more and these problems will stop. 60% of the time my daily mileage is: 10-12 miles city driving with engine mins approx 20+ per day. I would expect at idle the alternator is producing sufficient volts & amps to power everything in this truck without discharging the battery and charging the battery above idle speed. Earlier this month I drove one hundred miles, mainly at highway speed, and the battery voltage between days only changed from 12.40 to 12.51; this result has me considering calling BS on the Service Manager.
Questions:
Besides a possible bad battery cell any thoughts on what could be causing these issues?
Also is my limited daily driving part of the problem?
If it would exist, where could I find a chart that would show alternator output to rpms or anything that would chart the alternator performance? The Service Manage was not helpful
Thanks
History
The past 4-5 months I have had low battery warnings on screen, difficult for starter to turn engine and had to jump start several times.
Fobs would not work after 1 episode and had to use passive mode to start, numerous warnings lights to service for 4x4, advance traction control, tpms and cross traffic/blind spot, occur at times.
Serviced end of July to fix FOB and TPMS warning light. I was told they had to disconnect the battery overnight to reset/correct issues. Tried to research the overnight disconnect solution but found nothing.
Twice (after low battery start) vehicle would not move when placed in drive or reverse; 1 time reengaged after running 10 min and 1 time had to shut off and jump start.
Charged battery Sept 2nd, battery voltage was 12.90. Left hood open overnight and tried to check battery voltage daily; 9/4-9/6 12.5v-12.6v, 9/7 - 9/18 low 12.4v.
Yesterday 9/19
I did not leave the hood unlatched overnight. Checked battery voltage approx. 3 mins after opening and it was 12.01 (9/18 12.48v) difficult to start, when started truck would not move in D or R.and had numerous warnings messages. Called Ford and had it towed to dealership. Towing service jump started the truck, it would move in D and R and warning lights were gone
9/19 Service Manger
Discussed problems with Service Manager yesterday when completing the job order for Monday. He believes I need to drive the truck more and these problems will stop. 60% of the time my daily mileage is: 10-12 miles city driving with engine mins approx 20+ per day. I would expect at idle the alternator is producing sufficient volts & amps to power everything in this truck without discharging the battery and charging the battery above idle speed. Earlier this month I drove one hundred miles, mainly at highway speed, and the battery voltage between days only changed from 12.40 to 12.51; this result has me considering calling BS on the Service Manager.
Questions:
Besides a possible bad battery cell any thoughts on what could be causing these issues?
Also is my limited daily driving part of the problem?
If it would exist, where could I find a chart that would show alternator output to rpms or anything that would chart the alternator performance? The Service Manage was not helpful
Thanks
voltage on a fully charged battery with engine not running should be minimum 12.5 volts, closer to 13 volts.
voltage at battery with engine running should be closer to 14.5 volts.
i do 7 mile one way trip to work. in 2018 explorer, and 2021 F150.
never have any problems with low battery voltage.
sounds to me like you either have a weak cell in the battery, or problem with the charging system.
voltage at battery with engine running should be closer to 14.5 volts.
i do 7 mile one way trip to work. in 2018 explorer, and 2021 F150.
never have any problems with low battery voltage.
sounds to me like you either have a weak cell in the battery, or problem with the charging system.
2024 F350 Lariat Ultimate LB CC 7.3l gas 3.73 axle 250-amp alternator. Delivered Jan '24, current mileage 3,300.
History
The past 4-5 months I have had low battery warnings on screen, difficult for starter to turn engine and had to jump start several times.
Fobs would not work after 1 episode and had to use passive mode to start, numerous warnings lights to service for 4x4, advance traction control, tpms and cross traffic/blind spot, occur at times.
Serviced end of July to fix FOB and TPMS warning light. I was told they had to disconnect the battery overnight to reset/correct issues. Tried to research the overnight disconnect solution but found nothing.
Twice (after low battery start) vehicle would not move when placed in drive or reverse; 1 time reengaged after running 10 min and 1 time had to shut off and jump start.
Charged battery Sept 2nd, battery voltage was 12.90. Left hood open overnight and tried to check battery voltage daily; 9/4-9/6 12.5v-12.6v, 9/7 - 9/18 low 12.4v.
Yesterday 9/19
I did not leave the hood unlatched overnight. Checked battery voltage approx. 3 mins after opening and it was 12.01 (9/18 12.48v) difficult to start, when started truck would not move in D or R.and had numerous warnings messages. Called Ford and had it towed to dealership. Towing service jump started the truck, it would move in D and R and warning lights were gone
9/19 Service Manger
Discussed problems with Service Manager yesterday when completing the job order for Monday. He believes I need to drive the truck more and these problems will stop. 60% of the time my daily mileage is: 10-12 miles city driving with engine mins approx 20+ per day. I would expect at idle the alternator is producing sufficient volts & amps to power everything in this truck without discharging the battery and charging the battery above idle speed. Earlier this month I drove one hundred miles, mainly at highway speed, and the battery voltage between days only changed from 12.40 to 12.51; this result has me considering calling BS on the Service Manager.
Questions:
Besides a possible bad battery cell any thoughts on what could be causing these issues?
Also is my limited daily driving part of the problem?
If it would exist, where could I find a chart that would show alternator output to rpms or anything that would chart the alternator performance? The Service Manage was not helpful
Thanks
History
The past 4-5 months I have had low battery warnings on screen, difficult for starter to turn engine and had to jump start several times.
Fobs would not work after 1 episode and had to use passive mode to start, numerous warnings lights to service for 4x4, advance traction control, tpms and cross traffic/blind spot, occur at times.
Serviced end of July to fix FOB and TPMS warning light. I was told they had to disconnect the battery overnight to reset/correct issues. Tried to research the overnight disconnect solution but found nothing.
Twice (after low battery start) vehicle would not move when placed in drive or reverse; 1 time reengaged after running 10 min and 1 time had to shut off and jump start.
Charged battery Sept 2nd, battery voltage was 12.90. Left hood open overnight and tried to check battery voltage daily; 9/4-9/6 12.5v-12.6v, 9/7 - 9/18 low 12.4v.
Yesterday 9/19
I did not leave the hood unlatched overnight. Checked battery voltage approx. 3 mins after opening and it was 12.01 (9/18 12.48v) difficult to start, when started truck would not move in D or R.and had numerous warnings messages. Called Ford and had it towed to dealership. Towing service jump started the truck, it would move in D and R and warning lights were gone
9/19 Service Manger
Discussed problems with Service Manager yesterday when completing the job order for Monday. He believes I need to drive the truck more and these problems will stop. 60% of the time my daily mileage is: 10-12 miles city driving with engine mins approx 20+ per day. I would expect at idle the alternator is producing sufficient volts & amps to power everything in this truck without discharging the battery and charging the battery above idle speed. Earlier this month I drove one hundred miles, mainly at highway speed, and the battery voltage between days only changed from 12.40 to 12.51; this result has me considering calling BS on the Service Manager.
Questions:
Besides a possible bad battery cell any thoughts on what could be causing these issues?
Also is my limited daily driving part of the problem?
If it would exist, where could I find a chart that would show alternator output to rpms or anything that would chart the alternator performance? The Service Manage was not helpful
Thanks
There is a guy on youtube, Lehto's Law, were he describes this process. He has a good explanation of what a lemon is. He says ALL cars can be fixed, you just have to iron out the problems. Sometimes it's not worth the OEM to find someone smart enough to fix the problem, rather to just take the vehicle back and settle up with the original owner. Then take the lemon to the auction and let someone else deal with it.
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