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Fuel Injection Pump Lever Sensor

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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 10:08 AM
  #1  
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Fuel Injection Pump Lever Sensor

Hey everyone! I’m new to the group and just bought a 1993 F-250 7.3 IDI 4x4 with an aftermarket Banks Gen 1 turbo.

However, I’m having some issues with the transmission: hard shifts, early shifting, fast idle not working, and no downshifting when pulling a load uphill.

I think the issue might be the Fuel Injection Pump Lever Sensor, but I’m not getting any voltage or continuity at the sensor plug, even though the plug and wires look fine. I’ve checked for 5V with the key in the "on" position, but got nothing.
I read through this forum but with no power at the plug I cannot tune the voltage.https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ns-only-2.html

I find it hard to believe there is that there is a break in the harness downstream. Any thoughts on what could be causing the lack of power at the FIPL plug? I’d love to hear your suggestions. Thanks!


 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 12:38 AM
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Check your eec test connector signal return to see if you have 5v there.

Plug the FILP sensor back in and use your multi meter to back-probe the lower and middle terminals on the plug.

This is on a 460, but I think the wiring is the same.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 08:52 AM
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I was talking with a buddy of mine, and he suggested I trace the harness. The lack of ground and 5v indicated a wiring issue. I found three damaged wires on the passenger side near the battery (see image).

I cut out the damaged plug and wires, then used low-temperature solder connectors to splice in a new watertight plug. I ran three new wires and soldered the old TPS plug to them.

After the repair, the initial range on the middle wire reads 0.93v, and now the transmission is shifting as smooth as silk!






 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 09:26 AM
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FWIW I don't think you want the transmission shifting too smooth. I am new to the E4OD and just performed the same FIPL/TPS test as you but I'm at 1.3-4.14. From what I have read the smooth shifting can lead to slipping but again I am no expert. I know my idle voltage is on the high side but I do get some nice firm shifts with current specs--not hard or jarring shifts but nice and solid.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 09:44 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion - I hadn't thought of that. Unfortunately that means I need to adjust the bracket in the back which of course is harder to reach with the turbo plenum.

I will see if I can get the voltages back into range after replacing the headlights and batteries.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 07:23 PM
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One thought on the issue with pulling a load uphill is to make sure you turn OFF the overdrive. Mine shifts a little later than I would like and I need to basically put the pedal to the floor to trigger a quick downshift. I live in the mountains so I have to get that figured out. Also, it looks like someone did you a favor and deleted the hard line feeding into the fuel filter header so now all you have to do is delete the hard line from the header to the injection pump. It's very easy to do and worth it so you don't have to deal with the leak-prone olives in the hard line. I highly recommend you check out the offerings from Classic Diesel Designs, RussRepair, R&D IDI Performance, or Moose Diesel for upgrades and performance parts. They're all good people to deal with and they offer different flavors of options.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2024 | 05:15 PM
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I think the mechanical fuel pump is already been bypassed. I have a relay and an electric fuel pump in line.

Just replaced the headlights and batteries.

Next is ABS sensor, coolant, flush, vacuum pump, and serpentine belt whew

Thanks for the advice on the overdrive. I’m not sure the light works, but I’ll give it a shot. Next time I get it over 45. Lol






 
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Old Sep 29, 2024 | 08:36 AM
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From: Ougadougou
I've been running the Facet 40223 for a few years and while it can flow enough fuel it seems to only just flow enough fuel. On a long pull up a steep hill it's easy to make the fuel filter light come on if keep the RPMs high in 2nd or 3rd, manual trans, and any slight restriction from the fuel filter will cause the light to come on. Even pulling fuel from the rear tank seems to strain the pump. I know this subject has been beat to death and a lot of people have concluded the Facet is not a good option and that it's better to find a pump that flows more fuel at higher pressure. I still have the Facet on my N/A F250 because it technically works and I'm super busy/ a little lazy about replacing it. But on my 1990 I am absolutely installing a Mr. Gasket 105P with a regulator set to 5-6psi because it will flow more fuel which helps cool the IP and be able to maintain pressure and volume under load. At least in my experience the Facet can barely keep up with an N/A engine working hard. Just my .02
 
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