When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Moderators please fix misspelled Disintegrated in the title for searching purposes...TX
2011, F250, 6.2, Super Cab... low miles. Truck is not rusted not rotted. Still in excellent shape,
Both chassis & body looks like a 2 years old truck.
What are you all using for replacements as a kit? New hardware too..Mine are crumbling like dry cookie dough.
I would prefer a high quality USA made upgrade with street ride manners and some chemical resistance to tolerate the Krown rust control solvents. I play in mud, snow sand and haul.
Krown rust treatment saved all the metal on the truck, but its rough on certain soft items like cab mounts.
I'll take replacing the cab mounts at 13, 14 (years old) verses a rotted truck any day.
Any tips/surprises lifting the cab on a 4 post lift?
If you can justify the cost (over $1K) then the S&B silicones are great. If spending $1k on body mounts sounds like the definition of crazy to you, then look for polyurethane ones, those are way cheaper and will last forever. The argument against polyurethane is they supposedly ride harder. Personally with the two Ford trucks I've put poly mounts on, I didn't notice a difference at all in ride quality. Below is a link to one example of a high quality name brand poly mount kit for less than $300, there are poly kits from different manufactures out there too, this is just one example
If you can justify the cost (over $1K) then the S&B silicones are great. If spending $1k on body mounts sounds like the definition of crazy to you, then look for polyurethane ones, those are way cheaper and will last forever. The argument against polyurethane is they supposedly ride harder. Personally with the two Ford trucks I've put poly mounts on, I didn't notice a difference at all in ride quality. Below is a link to one example of a high quality name brand poly mount kit for less than $300, there are poly kits from different manufactures out there too, this is just one example
I definitely was against spending that kind of money for the S&B kits. I’ve seen several videos with the S&B and they look awesome and appear to come with everything. I went with the cheapo urethane kits and they are 1000x better than the clunky metal on metal but a little squeaky at times. Like Antonm23, I’m not sure I could tell a difference between the hard urethane, or the softer stock mounts. It’s a 3/4 ton pickup. The darn thing rides rough. It’s supposed to. Metal on metal was definitely worse.
Are you going to change them yourself? No comment on brand or choice of material. But HEAT is your friend to remove the bolts, they have blue thread locker. I did my own 2013 and no problems. For jacking, a block of wood to spread the load and jack one side at a time. Worked like a charm for me.
Last edited by Jones6780; Sep 2, 2024 at 08:35 PM.
Reason: add info
I opted for the S&B mounts for my truck. They're not closed to $1k if you shop around. In the States they're $500 from S&B themselves. In Canada, Canadian Diesel Online has the Crew Cab kit for $670 CND and it's where I got my set.
I'd highly recommend buying a miniductor as it makes heating up all the bolts incredibly easy.
I don't mind spending money for good parts especially if it keeps my money away from chineasiun junk.Do it once, do it right or don't do it.
So far the rear mount bolts have popped right out for inspection. I haven't tried all of them yet, so pretend I didn't say that.
My technique is to hit it with the IR 1/2" impact clockwise for a few hits then reverse and they spun out, No rust no rot and yes removable blue lotite.
I could do this in my driveway but recent fusion surgery suggests otherwise Goin to my friends shop with the 12K/lb lift. Hope to keep the fire wrench off.
Whats the difference between the4 Summit .4.4124R and 4.4124G....my guess is color not application. Call Summit and ask also ask country of origin.
I would spend the money and get s&b. They are worth it. New bolts just like oem and all.
Good point. The ones I got from EBay did not come with new bolts. I had to clean them up a little, but they went right back in. I didn’t use a torch to heat mine and they were pretty crusty. Plenty of PB Blaster was used.
Doing some homework it looks like I'll go with the S&Bs
Being a seasoned mechanic if one knows how to gently rattle the bolts out with a 1/2 impact it shouldn't be a big deal?
Before I did any research I did some trouble shooting. Had my girl jump on the rear bumper while I was under the truck. I thought it had a busted box rail or leaf spring. As she bounced I clearly heard saw and felt the trashed mount, left rear.
The next day I decided to try to remove it. I used the impact rather aggressively. The bolt spun right out after some back and forth.Obce the blue loctite gave way it zipped right out.
So I ask whats the difference between a 1/2 or 3/4" breaker bar and an air hammer used with some finesse? If the cage nuts gona spin Ive learned the air hammer work better as it moves quicker and the shock usually does a much better job then by hand with a breaker. Again I stress I know the tool and how to be gentle.
I will give them a call to make sure I get the right kit. I will ask about the air hammer too.
Any research I have read about distinctly says "stay away from using any Impact Wrench". Use only hand ratchets and heat. There's a concern about the nut spinning with the bolt, depending on age and rust.