I agree with you, if the nuts are going to spin, they’ll spin. I used my impact and the ones the rubber was completely gone I had to use a pipe wrench to hold a few of them. I used plenty of PB blaster, even letting them soak for a few days.

 

Yes sir thats my point most people don't wrench for a living. I restore old school muscle cars and Vettes.

The cage nut, if ****ty, will spin regardless... then your cutting into the floor. Been in this position a thousand times.

There is a certain finesse needed to do anything mechanical. I can feel when the bolt is yielding or if the caged nut isn't going to cooperate even with air. That is where most get into trouble they keep going when you should stop and reassess. I learned all of this the HARD way years ago.

If step one doesn't work then I move to another trick in the trick box. PB or Thrust, fire wrench (best tool on the planet, pneumatic is second). The last tools to come out of the trick box are the cutoff and recip saw. If you stand a chance of saving the cage nut you have to expose the little POS.

I'll lean on the side of caution with all of these comments from y'all that have performed this. Ive also learned to shut pie hole and open ear holes.
To that Ill try a 1/2" then the 3/4" breaker just for ****s so I can say that works too.

Lets see which one of the usual mechanical curses rear's its ugly head first. I will spank it with fire.

 

I believe heat will help with nuts spinning. I would always try to prevent more work of having to replace the cage nuts.

 

I loosened mine with a battery impact. Dr Olds said it best. They will either loosen or spin free. However, I soaked mine in PB for a few days first. And not from the bottom, but I pulled the rubber floor liner and body plugs and filled the cavities with Blaster. Cleaned up my floors a little while I was there and then liberally slathered Fluid Film all over everything.

I'm a Fluid Film / Wool Wax / Nh Oil Undercoating guy, but tell me more about the Krown. I thought they only did expensive penetrating oil (which I finally started using and LOVE).

Edit - I confused Krown with Kroil. I've started using Kroil

 

Kroil is the bomb. The shiznit. It is lit. Or whatever today's slang is in the post millennial vernacular for really cool stuff.

Kroil is so good, I don't use it enough. It's like I'm preserving that orange can for something special, for when I REALLY need a penetrating oil to work.

Granted, it is expensive, which is another reason why I use it sparingly... but the reverence for Kroil is beyond mere money. It's like holy oil.

Using it is like anointing the forehead of a problem with Kroil, and then waiting for the miracle to unfold.

It even has a unique smell to it, like nothing else.

 

Or other wise known as Aero Kroil. I didn’t know they changed the name till just a few years ago…. It’s good stuff.

 

Sooo Aero Kroil is the Krown product??
I get my truck "Krowned" annually. That is why my 2011 is rot-free. Krown, Corrosion Free, LPS3, Fluid Film, et al...If you do nothing your truck will start to pop the rear wheel wells in 5-7 years and the bed rails will be right behind it. I will never understand spending 70-80-90+ K on a new truck and doing nothing to undercoat it, (Run from Ziebart) unless you live in a desert region.
I'm ordering the S&Bs now.

The Krown doesn't play well with rubber. I imagine the failure of the cab mounts is attributed to the Krown. It swells thin wall hoses, door seals etc. I'll take cab mount bushing replacement after 12+ years to have a rot-free truck any day of the week!!! It's a bit slimy to work on but it's not rusty and the Krown is water soluble and washes off your clothes and body with dawn.

Here are a few shots of my 11 after last year's Krown application. Note the added FOMOCO plastic wheel well liner in the rear.

 

No Kroil and Krown are not related.

Kroil is a penetrating oil, while Krown is an inhibiting oil.

I’ve not seen an issue with Krown bothering rubber myself. Some inhibitors do deteriorate rubber compounds though.

Truck looks good, rust free.

 

Jeff,
Yep familiar with both...not familiar with the Areo. I'm used to Kroil in the tin can not arsol. You can buy Krown in an aerosol can. Sruff is great just like LPS3
I'll use Kroil PB Blaster and Castles "Thrust" at the same time. If that doesn't get it... out comes the fire wrench...lol. Thust holds up to the heat just a tad better than PB or Kroil.

Just ordered the S&B cab bushings. Called them directly. Nice to deal with. $431usd all in shipped to my door. Due Oct 4th.

I'll let y'all know how it goes. They said the Super cab doesn't need the core support bushings. I didn't check to see if mine has them or if they are solids. They told me the Crew Cab does and the installation is more complex. thus the extra 100 for the additional 2 mounts.
Summit had them for the same cost. But I like dealing with a non chineasium company. I try to buy nothing from china.

Steve

 

Ahh, ok. Kroil used to be call ‘Aero Kroil’, that’s all I ever knew it as until I found out they dropped the ‘Aero’ from the name. I used to use it in the tin cans too.

I agree on the LPS3 as well, good stuff. I use it all the time too. Woolwax is my go to now for undercoating, along with a couple others for creeping into seams. Every year seems to present a new experiment in rust proofing.

Good luck with the body mounts, I used S&B on my ‘96, they work great. When the time comes, I’ll use them on the ‘06.

 

What about fluid film?

 

Fluid film seems to creep into seems better than a thicker Woolwax, but doesn’t stay on exposed areas unless you drive on a dirt road and coat it with dust / dirt right after you apply it. It just washes off in the winter road salt snow sand slush.. so does the Krown for that matter. Which is why I prefer the thicker Woolwax.

Depends on what environment you’re operating in, Texas any light coating should work fine. Winter rust belt, the thicker and stickier the better. But the thicker doesn’t creep as well into seems. Almost best to coat everywhere and inside with a lighter creeping oil, let it creep into everything, then recoat everything inside and out with a woolwax type.

That’s my experience. Just have to live with working in a dirty oily mess afterwards. Like I said, it seems to be an experiment every year. Other than Woolwax specifically, I buy what ever is on sale in a spray can, they all seem to work the same and wash off over time. Wool wax I buy in gallon cans, and spray with a gun and rods to get into areas. That alone is a messy job. My wife’s car I send to a local independent shop that uses a Woolwax type, and he does a great job. Our local Krown franchise is terrible here. Trucks I do myself.

 

Job done.
Used the high quality S&B mounts.
Superior non chineasum parts. USA every day all day!
6.0 hours on a rust free truck.(though not a desert truck).
I agree with no air hammer per S&B recommendations. BUT you can, if you use heat like I did. Apply oxy/acetylene to the cage nut and top of bolt threads(through the access holes under the carpet). The torch flame needs to set on hot...get in and out quickly.
Heating the hex of the bolt from the under side does nothing but ignite the rotted bushing.

The Super Cab has 4 mounts under the cab 2 under the core support. (same for standard cab, Crew cab has 8 mounts).

Tools n techniques:
2ea 6X6x12ish with 2ea 3.5 ton jacks, one side of the cab at a time.
Place 6x6s on the floor re-enforcement's by the mounts, not on the rockers.
Access holes in the floors... find them use them for heat and penatrant.

The drivers head light needs to come out to allow firewrench access to drivers side core support cage nut n bolt.
Top of the grill needs to be unbolted and some of the rubber baffles need to be moved outa the way. Allows for access to the cage nut and to the inner headlight bolts (Genius Ford, make headlight replacement a $500 job!).

The rear seat, door sills,and front kick panels need to come out, easy. Do that first so you're not greasy handling the seats.
Heat from the top. Use a cutting torch tip set on HOT not wimp. You need to break the blue loctite loose.You need to get in and outta there quick with the heat. With heat, said obnoxious bolts come out like butter. If not they chatter and bind (thus the reason for the non air hammer approach suggestion) risking cage nut damage.
Have garden hose and fire extinguisher near by. Take normal firewrench precautions.

Had all the tools out...air fire electric hand beer Pink Floyd...
1/2" drive...every combo in the box.
New SnapOn 3/8" Click torque wrench.
oxy/acet
Sawzall w/coarse nail cutting bi metal blade.
pry bars, wonder bar, pickle fork.
2lb Maul
PB Blaster/Castle Thrust
Working fluid
I'm sure there were other tools out. My son wiped them down and put them away. Rewarded with back straps n Bourbon for dinner, take care of your help!

The cab mount under the drivers foot well was a bitoch. The lower washer'ed sleeve galvaniclly fused to the upper sleeve. Had to use 3 Lenox saw blades. The coarse nail biter bi-metal blade finally sliced through both walls of the tubes. The old bushing material loaded up on the finer metal blades. Careful as I nicked the casing off the E-brake cable. I need to figure out that repair (only casualty).

Check cab side to side gap on the box prior to tightening. Mine was within 3 millimeters, called it good.
Ill edit this tomorrow after I come up for air. My son was my right hand doing this. Add 2 more hours to the 6hrs without an assistant. <edited 09OCT24>

 

"2011, F250, 6.2, Super Cab... low miles. Truck is not rusted not rotted. Still in excellent shape,
Both chassis & body looks like a 2 years old truck."

Dang, you aren't kidding. Good looking truck

 

@droldsmorland

Thank you for your write up!

The father-son aspect was awesome too.