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Update. I pulled thr the driveshaft and got a digital angle finder.
Got 3.4 degrees down at output shaft of trans.
Next I measured at the pinion yolk.. 12.4 degrees up. I found that hard to believe but even by eye, it looks so wrong
I installed shims and now the angle is 3.9 degrees up.
Now that the rear angle is within 1/2 a degree if the trans, the vibration is gone and it’s like a different truck. Of course I played ujoint needle bearing bingo that was fun picking those up off the floor, cleaning and reinstalling. This thing has been running so far out if whack for so long that I’m going to have the shaft balanced and unjoints replaced.
I really can’t say enough about how good it feels to figure this out. I’ve never done this before.
Are the rear springs stock with no shackle or other modifications? I’ve never seen a pinion angle like that.
the springs appear stock but I feel the rear is not original to this truck. I believe whatever this rear came out of required a much different spring perch placement than my truck. The wedges I put in corrected it.
So, when I removed rhe driveshaft, I noticed that the output shaft of the trans had a lot of up/down, side to side play- I’m talking about 1/8” in every direction. With the driveshaft yolk inserted, there is no play. Is that normal? Doesn’t seem right to me
So, when I removed rhe driveshaft, I noticed that the output shaft of the trans had a lot of up/down, side to side play- I’m talking about 1/8” in every direction. With the driveshaft yolk inserted, there is no play. Is that normal? Doesn’t seem right to me
Yes, the only support the output shaft has is two small bushings in the rear of the case and the extension housing bushing.
Yes, the only support the output shaft has is two small bushings in the rear of the case and the extension housing bushing.
I'm surprised. without the driveshaft yolk inserted, this thing just flops around! While all the major vibration is gone, I was tooling around yesterday and noticed a slight vibration 25-35 mph.. smooths out after. Still going to get the shaft balanced and ujoints replaced and also will balance the wheels.
I've owned this truck for a month and didn't get a lot of specific history on it. The guy paid people to do stuff and since he wasn't mechanical, there are some mind bogglng things going on.
-trans kickdown not even close to adjusted
-Vacuum leak at one corner of carb (nut on carb stud finger tight)
-Redneck trans mount that started this thread
- found bolts missing that hold the bed to frame
-no seat belts installed
-bench seat that looked good but the foam was shot so they just added more craft store foam to "fix" itt
-Upper bearing in steering column installed wrong.
-ign key not matchung door lock key
I fixed all that and more but still have a big list. At least now, she drives almost as good as she looks.
If it is moving a tremendous amount your case bushings may be worn pretty bad. Unfortunately, it requires a complete tear down to replace them. That is one reason why it is vitally important to have an oil cooler with the C6 the only lubrication the rear case bushings get is the return oil from the cooler.
the original vibrations were happening at very odd times, like 1-2 upshift and randomly at other speeds and while accelerating. after correcting pinion angle, most of that is was gone. BUT... there was still a slight annoying vibration between 30-40mph. I took the shaft itself to the man and had it balanced and they put new U joints in. He said the shaft was out a "few degrees" on each end. I also found one of the bolts on my ghetto special trans mount had loosened up quite a bit. With that locked down, a balanced driveshaft, I can now truly say this truck drives smooth as silk.
Of course now I found more issues- first and foremost is some kind of banging/clunking over bumps. sounds like front end. add that to a squeaky speedo cable and now that's all I hear!
Front end components visually look newer but I have yet to jack up the front and give it all the shake test. I'll report back on that.
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