These look like stock tune runs, yes?

Temps are good, high pressure oil is good. PW matches a stock tune. Battery/reference voltages are good.

Boost is low for WOT - one file showed 11PSI. This one 11.9PSI. Should be around 15-17 with stock wastegate settings. Might be good to look for intake side or exhaust side leaks. If you can include EBP_A(PSI) and BAROV(PSI) on your next log, we can look at the pressure feeding the turbine, and see if the leak is exhaust or intake side.





None of this affects your SES trigger, though - that still points to the IDM.

 

Yes this is a stock run.

EBP has a sensor but its disconnected from the tube so it just reads atmospheric psi at all times - I have a EBP delete pedestal so I don't think the sensor has any input into what the PCM is doing. I have a new tube to put in, but I need to helicoil the housing that holds the tube / sensor, as the PO had cross threaded it and then fixed it with a generous helping of RTV. Still, without an EBPV in the pedestal, the sensor is meaningless as far as I understand it, or does it also have other interactions outside of the EBP valve?

The EBPV sensor end currently has a resistor. Also have an intake heater delete (boost gauge is piped into that spot) and the intake line off the solenoid has a resistor to stop it from throwing a soft code. I have a boost leak for sure, guess I never noticed it before as I usually run with the hydra tuner and I have no issues hitting defueling levels of pressure. Likely leak points are where the turbo outlet meets the spider, the intake plenums, and at the turbo up-pipes (pipes have soot on them) - the rest of the assembly is good (have all newish boots on everything). I do have a boost leak tester so it's definitely something I can figure out where the leak is coming from.

I have a modified GB 120v IDM - came with the truck. I've read that the IDM's can throw the code for failed IDM's, and if this is the case with mine, it leads me to wonder why it is happening now, and not at any time in the last 2 years since I've owned the truck. Maybe the IDM is failing somehow, but still functional?

 

The EBPS purpose/function without the EBPV has been a debated topic. Many say it’s not needed, others say that it is. I’ve read a lot of posts about cleaning the tube helping fuel mileage, but they may have still had the EBPV.

If my memory serves me, we had someone who tunes to say the PCM used it for other things too which settled it in my book.

Doesn’t seem like the root of your SES but I’d move getting it back in service up the to-do list a little if it were me.

The boost does look pretty low. Start with a boost leak pressure test but also check for exhaust drive pressure leaks. Don’t ignore the new boots during the check as those can leak as well.

 

Unless there’s something specific on the reman sticker calling out a modification, the 120v is just a part number. It doesn’t designate higher voltage. These were indicators of some change point but not in voltage. IDMs from all years are interchangeable. I’m basing this (from memory) on the expert knowledge of Cleatus12r.

You could send the IDM off to dieseltechchatt for a checkup/repair. I’ve only ever read glowing reviews of his service.

 

IDM is suspect given the P1316 code. Is rebuilt so the vent should be plugged but ya never know if water has intruded. Pics would help.

The PCM wants input from the EBPS. Provide that. Putting the truck back to OEM is a good thing.

 

I've boost leak tested - tightened up a leak, and have a few more to fix, but for now I can hit 15psi. Still need to replace the boot that goes to the turbo, and the turbo outlet to spider oring & clamp.

Today I discovered the potential root of my U1262 code. To start with I was testing the com bus + and com bus - wire for continuity, but on a whim I decided to just remove the pcm and open it up to visually inspect it.

There is a blown up component - I think it might be a diode, but there is no part number or any writing on it - there are several on the board like it and none have a number, so unable to go any further. (Picture is from a stock photo - not my PCM).



Often times a failure in circuitry is not the root cause of the issue, something else happened to cause it to fail. The truck still runs, but I'd love to figure out what this chip is so I can replace it, but absolutely cannot find anything online so far.

 

Good find - I wonder if a call to dieseltechchatt with this component failure mentioned would get you some answers. They could repair it for you, but maybe they'd be willing to tell you what that part is and does, pointing to what might have caused it to blow.

 

I actually did talk to them - on facebook. They said to look at the schematics, and would not tell me what the part was. They are willing to test it for me, of course. I asked if they had the schematics, and they told me I should contact ford and likely I will have to pay for it. I contacted ford myself via their online chat, and was told they do not offer that information, and my best bet is to contact a dealership - which is not something I am going to do, as they will probably just sell me a new pcm.

So it seems this is a dead end, and I'm going to drive the truck the least amount I can until I can source a replacement pcm for my year in western Canada!

 

Maybe try an email to PHP. They are pretty familiar with the PCMs so may know what diode you need.

I can understand DTC not sharing the information. He’s built his business on this difficult to get info. I can’t imagine what he’s went through to accumulate the knowledge. For all he knows you could be trying to start a competitive business.

You could still send to him for repair. I don’t know how much crossing the border might impact the price with all the tariffs etc.

 

I've figured out what the larger chip beside the failed diode I have is - it's a motorola 1034SE001, a 30 pin IC, somehow related to the injectors from what I can find online as description say "ecu board injection driver IC". There are a limited amount of pins the PCM shares with the ICU, so it has to be related to one of those. I can't find any product spec sheets or pinouts for the chip so hard to figure out what exactly it does, but if I knew what the outputs / inputs were for the pins from the chip that are connected to what I think is the diode I could start to figure something out. My suspicion is that it is a diode that just connects back to the chip itself, to make sure that if there is feedback it blows the diode and not the chip. I might just pull the circuit board and do some high resolution photographs of both sides and start charting out the connections between the components so I can figure out what PCM pin the circuits interact with, that way I can start to narrow down if it had an external cause or not, and fix that. At this point may as well open up the IDM and have a look inside and see what I can find there.

 

Just want to provide an update - it was the IDM and CPS. I went to start it one morning and it started fine, but would not give me above 1800 rpm. Trying to go above this the engine would shake violently and dump a ton of white smoke (unburnt fuel). I put in a new (reman) 120v IDM, and it drives better than it ever has, and all the error codes are gone. For a bit I had an issue where it would still seem like there was a miss (sounded a tiny bit like running on rumble strips), and I swapped out the gray CPS for a black one, and that solved the issues. For the record I never had any CPS issues prior to this, who knows maybe the new IDM does not like the gray CPS. I kept the old IDM instead of returning as a core in order to open it up and see what I can find.

 

Thanks for the update! And congrats on the fix.

 

what did you do about the blown diode on the PCM?

 

I was not able to find out what it was, even after exhaustive online searching in multiple languages, on different search engines, contacting php, diesetechatt, and ford. I had ordered a new PCM, and that did not make a difference - still had the same error codes. A new IDM fixed it though. So whatever that diode does seems not to make a difference. Now I wonder if that diode was blown all along and I just happened to discover it, but it was unrelated to my problems.