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I have read through tons of posts on here and other sites and have not found a direct answer to this question even though there are dozens of posts on this subject, so I am sorry if this is duplicated somewhere.
I am working on a 1992 Ford F150 4x4 with 5.0L engine. This truck was mistreated a lot before I got it so I have made a lot of trips to the junkyard finding parts for it. On one trip I found a 1994 F150 5.0L that had a brand new 95amp G3 alternator on it, box for the alternator was still in the bed of the truck, looks like they changed it out shortly before wrecking it. It did not fit my truck but with it being new and about 20 dollars I pulled it and took it home. Later I found out about the 2G to 3G conversions and decided that I would do it since I already had an alternator. I later found a 1993 F150 5.0L that also had a 3G alternator that was the 3 bolt side mounted type like the one I had pulled earlier. I pulled the bracket from that truck and the entire alternator wiring harness. I was able to put the new bracket on my 92 5.0, the new alternator bolted right up with no problems also.
The question I have is this; Will the wiring harness from the 93 truck just drop right in replace of my old one, or do I still need to put a heavy fuse in it like many of these posts call for? I figured it was fine for the G3 on the 93, it just goes from the alternator to the solenoid and both harnesses look identical on the end that bolts to the solenoid, it seems like it could just be hooked up like that with no modifications?
Remove all the 2G wiring aside from the green/black. I can grab a pic in AM as I did similar with OE harness on my '92 when went to the 3G.
I swapped out the 2G harness/ alternator on my ‘89 for a 3G harness/ alternator from a ‘94. The only problem was the shape of the green/ black wire connector. One was round while the other was square. I changed out one of the ends and plugged it together. It seems to be working fine.
Thank you both for the replies, I see what you mean about the green/black wire, the connector on it is different. I will move the connector over to the G3 harness, I can either splice it or just de-pin the connector if the inserts match. Thanks again for the assistance.
Been a while, I guess the '88 302 has the Weatherpack for the green/black as I did that before I found an OE 3G truck harness...still tidy connector. The '92 4.9 looks just like OE with the connector. Let me know if you still need a pic of the thing.
Thank you all again, I love how helpful everyone on this forum is. That connector on my 92 G2 harness was different than the one on the 93 G3 harness, even the termination was different, about a 1/16 on the G2 and around 1/32 on the G3, so I couldn't just de-pin it and swap the wire. I ended up splicing in the G2 connector that fit my harness with a waterproof self soldering connector. I have it all hooked up now and it appears to be charging by the guage, still have to pull out my meter and check everything.
Been a while, I guess the '88 302 has the Weatherpack for the green/black as I did that before I found an OE 3G truck harness...still tidy connector. The '92 4.9 looks just like OE with the connector. Let me know if you still need a pic of the thing.
that does not appear to be a weatherpack, unless you mean a ford variation of it possibly?
Here is what mine looked like, the G3 harness had a 4 pin connector and the G2 harness had a two pin connector, even though both only had one pin installed, so the connectors were different and the pin size was different so I just spliced the G2 connector to the G3 harness so it would plug into my existing harness.
Here is what mine looked like, the G3 harness had a 4 pin connector and the G2 harness had a two pin connector, even though both only had one pin installed, so the connectors were different and the pin size was different so I just spliced the G2 connector to the G3 harness so it would plug into my existing harness.
Make sure to use some tape or zip ties, your connector lock (The tab that broke off) is missing, so it might back out or wiggle out over time, a simple taping job to encourage the two halves to not wander will be sufficient. I think ford discontnued the older type connector, which is why it changed. But i wouldnt worry about it. If I were to use new connectors, I would use a delphi metri-pack to create the same connection , personally. Or a single wire weather pack (much better quality than fords in my opinion)
The only proper way to do the weather pack is to buy a crimper and seals for your wire gauge These little rubber seals and the terminals get put on the wire at the same time then install through the back of the body, then get a TPA
A TPA is a Terminal Position Assurance lock which keeps the wire and seal and terminal in the body
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Honestly, your situation the best and easiest remedy is to splice the wires together. Unless you need to remove your harness in the future or swap it again, the only reason ford has a connector body in that location was so the harness could easily be swapped or installed as a section rather than as part of the main harness (Options, other vehicles, etc)
splicing would just make it so you need to snip it out to remove it.
I would not bother to change the connector since, if it remember correctly, all that wire does is trigger the alternator to turn on. To do Weather-Pack correctly requires special tools to not only install the terminal ends but also to release the terminal from the connector. I bought that stuff when I had to rewire the CJ.
I would not bother to change the connector since, if it remember correctly, all that wire does is trigger the alternator to turn on. To do Weather-Pack correctly requires special tools to not only install the terminal ends but also to release the terminal from the connector. I bought that stuff when I had to rewire the CJ.
The terminal is easily enough removed from the body, but yes a ratcheting crimper which only does weather pack(sometimes they combine and do metripacks) is why I said i would just go and splice the wire. They make sleeves which have solder in them, there is also the classic butt tubes, but if you know how to solder a simple repair that way too which can be done at working height at the side of the truck.
16 gauge or smaller, ford recommends this is not crimping anything
There would be solder on the wires before folding the wire and sliding the tubing down over